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Any ABS-like resin would do fine I think ? ??

Great! Any in particular that you'd recommend for the Photon?

Verity Filipow I have only used elegoo ABS-like grey, I’m very pleased with that one

One thing folks have done with similar dolls in brittle material is to not make the bar from (in this case) 3d printed resin but instead leave or drill a hole and insert a very strong wire- basically a small metal bar epoxied into place so you can stri ng quite tightly for good posing, but without any worry you're going to break the bar.

I'd print from a material as close to the finished colour as you can and then paint with model paints or excellent quality acrylic and use a sealant, avoiding painting the ball joints if you can (as it will tend to chip and flake with wear). Check out some of the awesome full repaints of Monster High dolls on Youtube for inspiration. I highly recommend this channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCitKV0ebZVbtU2nIPihDGMQ

Okay thank you! I will have a look:)

A mix of resins might be in order, here. Siraya Tenacious mixed with an ABS-like resin should do the trick.

Oh fantastic! Thank you so much for all this!

Fantastic, thank you so much for the advice!:)

You may have to experiment a bit with ratios...usually not a straight 50:50 mix. And exposure times will be different, too. Run your exposure test on any mix you settle on before printing.

Awesome, thanks for the tip:)

What sort of range of movement do you want from your BJD? If you only want limited posing, light stringing and a little experimenting with exposure times would be worth the time.

Moderate to limited posing. It's for a client, and I've stressed that these things are fragile and mainly for display only!

Then I would play with the wall thickness and exposure times. Which resin do you normally use?

I'm a fan of ApplyLabWork mSLA grey resin. It has twice the tensile strength than Anycubic and equivalent resins.

Currently still getting through the anycubic green I have but willing to switch!

As stated above: Anycubic Resin is not good for tensile use.

A lot of people have been printing the bjd dragon from myminifactory. They hold up pretty good from what I've been told. Gonna try printing my own when the resin gets here.

Give the green a go...will the BJD be painted? If so, just go with the resin you're use to, if it holds up strength-wise.

Yes, I've printed dolls just fine and they last and Havent broken

What is abs?

Mika Gruszka a kind of plastic

Do you have a different brand you'd recommend instead?

Which resin were you using?

Not that I've used but people on the Internet seem to recommend Siraya Blu as being one of the better ones.

Siraya claims to have printed a hook with it and hung a 20kg off it, summat you definitely couldn't do with the Anycubic Basic . . .

t's fairly expensive, though, at $50.00+ IF you can find it.

Yeesh, okay. I'll have a look, maybe I'll find some over here in the UK. Thanks!:)

Verity Filipow Ah, I'm UK too. Ebay sellers are knocking it out @ £50... for 500ml!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Holy shit! I've just had a look... so insane.. I think I'll try an ABS like resin. Maybe that's a better shot right now.

I have been using elegoo ABS like resin

Sorry just saw this. Yes, I'll be painting it. I'm going to try that elegoo abs like grey, as that's closer to the actual painted colour anyway!

Good luck! And let me know how you go? BJDs are a hobby for me and if I can make it cheaper, yay.

Will do! Thanks!

Two holes are better than one.

I use like 3 or 4 holes. In places where no one sees it.

Are you using transparent resin?

Some use a single uv led and put into the hole

You can see the huge holes on the underside.

Nick Williams nope. Gray.

Dan ahhh

Yes, uncured resin can hide in hollowed prints and creep out later with not so nice results. I always include at least 2 of the largest holes that will fit in the bottom of the print. After washing, I use a pair of curved tweezers to clean out as many interior supports as possible and a 100 cc syringe of cleaning solution to hose out the interior, paying particular attention to any corners or pockets where uncured resin might lurk. When curing, I try to turn the print at least once to expose the bottom to UV light and allow as much as possible into the interior. Finally, if I'm still uncertain about how much the interior needs UV exposure, I use a small UV light inserted in one or both holes to further cure.

May I ask for your exposure times? I've found this happens occasionally to my drainage holes on hollowed minis and I just need to take a sharp knife/scalpel to the hole before I post-cure to widen the hole enough for the resin to drain properly.

Do you have the anodized print bed that is completely blue or the metal surfaced print bed?

Josh Berkley blue

Josh Dalgliesh I do t know of the top of my head but I think it’s 60 bottom and 12

This happens easily with clear resins. The uv light leaks through already cured layers and hardens resin in the pocket.

Try lowering your exposure times per layer to 8 would be my first recommendation. Second suggestion is increase the time for the raising and lowering of the bed slightly so there is plenty of time for the uncured resin to flow free and drain off the pr int. It'll increase your overall print time of course, but unwanted curing such as this should decrease. Besides, if your reduce your layer times by 4 and increase the "off time" by increasing the raise and lower process by 4, then they'll offset one another and you won't notice a difference in the print times.

will do ty so much

awww ty I’ll keep that In mind.ty

Jimmy Clark no worries man, let us know how it works out :)

Try printing it on its side (edge). I've been printing lithophanes on their sides and have had great success

price ? looks like rebranded anycubic resin

Johnny Johnsen it was $19.99

AC price :) id say it looks like AC resin..

probably prints like it too

isnt the picture identical to AC, except the name?

3dprinteruniverse.com ships all resins same business day. Sale going on right now 30% off resins with code RESIN30.

Derek Mears that Darth maul just looks like piccolo to me haha

Piccomaul ?

That would make a great comic!

Ohhhh that inner pain he would have to go through.... ? from a sith lord to a piccolo.. whu! ? lifes tough... ?

dont print anything with thin parts if you want it to last through regular handling. green is SO brittle you break a sword or antler by looking at it wrong.

Benny Lu wow the resin at this place is super expensive. 3x500ml for $130...

Hahaha, with those prices even the discount doesn’t matter anymore. Jezus Christ that’s a rip off.

I'd just use (3) 1 liter bottles.

yes

I planned to just mix it by pouring it into a larger container, save a step. And I don't have any empties...

Gallon windshield washer fluid jug painted flat black

Nice. What scale?

Neal Conway 1/25

Paint job is excellent!

This is the future of modeling. Excellent print and paint!

this is fantastic! I've been doing some 3D scanning for a customer and scaling up smaller models.

i find the anycubic green is a brilliant all purpose resin and works really well.
downloads? the latest firmware for your machine ( remember there are three different photons now) and also photon studio workshop from their website, chitubox if you want something a little better

the other thing you'll need is 99% IPA, Nitrile gloves, and lots of patience!

I've had some great results from elegoo abs-like.
https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa......

Very smelly and very brittle - basically very ill suited for minis.

I like elegoo gray. Chitubox and photon workshop

I was using elegoo grey but the details were getting washed out the last few bottles so I switched to anycubic grey and like it a lot more. I also mix in some siriya tenacious to make the minis less brittle. About 80/20 anycubic to siriya ratio. I also like the prusa slicer for adding supports.

In my (limited) experience it does not take primer well.

Never had any of those problems!

I think they stoped shipping stuff atm

Yeeeeeep. Non-essential. They were probably shipping from China and now aren't anymore.

There not fulfilling orders unless its medical right now

Pretty much most resin is deferred until then.

I ordered some on ebay that says it should be here by Monday. Hopefully it works out. I go through almost 2 L a day. Guess I got spoiled with the next day shipping on Amazon.

Check out Newegg, I got 3 liters coming should arrive this week.

Amazon is going to be hit or miss right now. I have had some "essential" things delayed by a couple weeks and some toys hitting my mailbox the next day.

I had shit delivered same day and the same stuff delayed 4 weeks...

Same with PLA. So much for making face shield frames.

I ordered with 4/21 delivery and still showed up 2 days after

Prime-able items still arrive within 2 days at the moment, it seems. If you cant get it on prime then itll take as long as it takes.

Game the system, order vitamins with it but put them in the cart first.

I ordered some filament on prime, and they still quoted me end of April.

Chris was this Amazon-sold or a private seller?

Jake Oliver Foster PRetty sure Amazon. Hatchbox stuff. It's all good though... I went to my local microcenter and got 2 rolls for only 10 bucks more than I would have paid for the one roll.

Chris ah least you managed to get some!

I have and also the royal game of ur (way better then chess)

it that even possible?

Hosung Kim maybe yes

Mucus is a pretty good binding agent.

Chemistry !!!!!!

ofc it is *possible*

But is it practical based on the equipment and the danger levels associated with resin production.

Yaptık direk ?

I have made attempts but some chemicals are extremely hard to come by in acceptable quantities and are very dangerous.

Also the money you spend on equipment .

For $39 for a bottle of one liter of Resin, it even worth the risk?

Erkan Uygun istersen num7ne yolla bana anycubic türkiye distrübütöruyuz beğenirsek senin urunlerini satariz

Rod Williams unless you wanted to start your own resin manufacturing company, no

Dennis Tomson which one you struggling with? I think the open source resins generally use the same photoinitiator, which seems to be the hardest to source?

Emre Güneş özelden görüşelim

I looked into it a couple years ago, there are a few forums out there of people doing it... hard to find tho cause there isn’t many. Definitely possible but a lot easier to just buy properly engineered resins

Hmmmmm

Like others have said, the relative cost of making small batches, it will be more expensive than just buying it from somebody else. not to mention that the chemicals that are required to make resins a very dangerous and require special equipment to safely handle it.

Gregore Conn toe jam works well.

David Collinson i don’t remember excactly ...it was a recipe leaking from autodesk used with their ember printer.

I think it was the thinner.

My application at the time required really runny resin.

Erkan Uygun siyah var mı anyvubic için Erkan Uygun

bursalıymışsın bende bursalıyım

Much easier and alot cheaper to buy a clear resin with strength/flex desired and add pigments or modifiers ?
Tho if making over 230 litres then might be cheaper to make your own.

I have had a lot of success trying to not make my own-

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