Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » thingiverse

Did you put your printer in test mode?

I did not put it into any kind of testmode. Have i misread it? I didnt even know there was one on the Photon S

Sascha Berlin okay so the way this file is suppost to work is there is a mode that changes the exposure time for each section of the file in 2 second increments. So section one will have 2 seconds of exposure while section 2 will have 4 and so on. This way you can see which is the best time of exposure

yeah, that was my assumption, but it still looks very off since no area is somewhat decent. I was wondering if i did something horribly wrong when setting it up

Sascha Berlin i got my source files elsewhere so ill test this one for ya really quick and see what i can find out

Sascha Berlin Well, I am unable to print this particular file as I have the OG photon and can't print .pws files, So I will link to the test I used and maybe that might help you out.

https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

If unfamiliar with github, there is a green box that says clone or download in the middle right of the screen.

Dustin Cole i sadly can not use said file for the newer photon, thats why i resorted to this one. I didnt really find much else in the way rerf testing for the photon s. But thanks for trying!

Sascha Berlin does your photon only print using .pws files?

no, but i heard that both photons use incompatible rerf variants

Sascha Berlin I may be wrong but the photon S does have a stronger light so essentially it just prints faster due to being able to cure fully at a lower exposure time. So for my photon it may take 8-10 seconds for the elegoo grey to cure, where your will take 5-6 seconds. The Rerf should still be able to show you where your resin sweet spot is regardless of machine.

Does this test work on the newer Fauxtons? I watched the youtube videos and didn't see the .gcode files on my thumbdrive when I went to check.

Christopher Barton thats at elsat what i hoped. I mean the areas on each test are different in my case, just not stellar quality. Maybe its the resin not being able to at that resolution.

Why would you say you're not getting good results? #3 - #4 on first picture look entirely decent. It's almost hitting the limits of the printer.

Go with 6 seconds

on which one? first, second or third picture?

i compared them to the original file, not knowing what to expect

The right column is all out of 50 micron range that the photon could *theoretically* achieve. Since this is an lcd sla there is always going to be some light scattering so even a 50 micron pixel will cure to more than 50 microns. The resolution you're getting here between #2 - #4 is about 150 microns, which is pretty much perfect for this kind of a printer. If you need better you'd have to look at $3000+ laser slas.

Sascha Berlin The first one. #2 give you best negative (lowered) detail but is lacking a bit of positive (raised) detail. I'd go with #3 (7s) or go a bit more heavy with supports with 6s. I'm assuming the first one is at 50 micron layers? Try to do another test with lower exposure for shallower layers as they need less time to cure.

Mi Ha first one is 50, yeah. I'll just try with that! What would the advantage of going below 50 be then? (looking at your other comment as well) I have been printing at 40 most of the time but some detail looked a bit off (overexposure i guess, printed at 9/10 secs)

i would print with those settings now using x4 AA, does that make sense?

Sascha Berlin You can linearly extrapolate for shallower layers and get pretty close. If 6s is good at 50 microns, then 4s will (most likely) work for 30 micron and 3s will be ok for 20 microns.

Those settings look good to me. AA is up to you, 4x is plenty.

Ah sorry, missed the question about the advantages. Smaller layers will give you better resolution in the Z axis (straight up), but the bigger advantage (for me at least) is that you can get a lot closer to horizontal with the plate and not have any bridging issues. You can see here: https://github.com/....../temp/slice_angles-van_kesteren.jpg how the layer height impacts critical angle (the angle where you'd need to add supports)

Mi Ha thanks for all the nice intel :) i will try it out! have a good night

put it at a 15 to 45 degree angle

Upright at an angle. You don’t want supports on both sides.

Like this, for example?

Terry Hobbs more straight up and down, slightly angled from there.

This much support?

No, I just used auto supports to illustrate the idea. I will be placing my own when the time comes.

Flat.....or 45° never right

I'd print it straight up. Minimise the supports

Nice. What scale?

Neal Conway 1/25

Paint job is excellent!

This is the future of modeling. Excellent print and paint!

this is fantastic! I've been doing some 3D scanning for a customer and scaling up smaller models.

Interested in it

Maybe the mesh isnt closed? If your running windows 10 try putting it through 3d builder and see what it says

It could also be an inverted mesh.

The normals are reversed, needs fixing. The darker areas are 'inside'

Load it into Microsoft 3d builder and itll automatically fix it

Like mentioned already its a non fixed not manifold reversed mesh. You will need to fix the normals before printing it.

Ahhh, yes thank you all.
It worked.

To elborate. There are a lot of ways to fix it. I use netfab and auto fix. Simple and free. Apparently 3d builder works well enough. I havent tried. You can upload the stl into programs like blender and fix it there.

Your normals aren’t normal!

Abnormal normals?

Hello. Please me model printer and parametrs ?

Open it up in Prusaslicer, right click, and choose "Fix via Netfabb" - might fix your inside-out polygons! I use it for every STL as a safety measure.
Edit: Disregard, I see you fixed it!

i like but i'd have a plug/rod to semi lock in place last thing u want is a small knock and it all on floor

yes please

I'd be interested too

I'd modify it so you could use a similar screw to the normal build plate XD

yea just to keep in place

stl pls

wouldn't be hard to make ya own

pretty usefull actually

something else I didn't know I wanted

that seems super handy!

Awesome!

I'd use it

I'd use that. I'd also echo one of the above comments about tapping a screw hole to use the one that comes stock.

Is this meant to be printed in resin or FDM? Depending on the answer, I might have a design suggestion.

Yes!

Useful!

Genius! I never thought about this haha

Good idea but how much resin would you need to save to make up for the print? Also a little worried as resin can break easily, unless of course this is to be printed on an fdm printer. Nice idea though.

Stevo Hill you're very right I just got lazy and didn't want to cut threads. But the knob screw is an M6 for anyone interested. I figure that the last bits of a bottle won't be too messy if the spill ?

Justin Lincoln you're very right I just got lazy and didn't want to cut a threaded hole, I'll accept the ramifications ? but the bottle I used to demo is half full, and I figure if you're draining it there isn't much left anyway

Yes please. I’ll make it FDM though ?

Josh Berkley I might honestly use this to just siphon bottles into other bottles, for when I finally make my "Franken" Resin

Shawn O'Hara I printed in SLA so I didn't have to use supports and for a more accurate fit on the post. But all ears on that suggestion either way as I do have an FDM printer (that needs tinkering to run again)

yea i get just was my 2cents worth :P

Colin Hughes I printed it on my SLA machine. After curing it's quite strong. The large bottle in the photo is about half full. If you're using this I imagine there isn't much left in the bottle at all so very light

Robert Maefs my FDM printer is currently down and I'm impatient. That's about the gist of it haha

Justin Lincoln I mix all the time. Part of the fun!

Josh Berkley we do what we can with what we have!

As log as its not the last of your first bottle :p

Thanks love the idea

Josh Berkley Fair. I can tell it's resin and looks super clean, but I think this application is more suited to FDM overall. Cheaper, arguably faster but that's pretty moot. I'd think it has less of a chance to break than resin, but again, depends on the resin vs the weight of the bottle.

Anyways, the suggestion is that for those who want to print in FDM, the bottom should be totally flat. It might already be, but I can't tell if it tapers upwards from the mount to the disc or not. Printing in FDM in the orientation it's designed to function in will give the largest cross section of layers and therefore be strongest in that orientation during the printing.

Count me interested for when i eventually get my first resin printer

Chris Denyer best purchase I've made in a long time

Shawn O'Hara that makes total sense. Being that I printed in resin I wasn't so concerned about horizontal and more about vertical continuity, so I designed only considering that. It does in fact taper upward slightly

I ordered the zero (got it for 99) but i guess they are on backorder

Josh Berkley That's a valid point, at 3am my brain is fried from children keeping ne awake lol, of course an empty bottle is light. Duh!

I will see how this develops with the ideas of a securing screw etc.

Thanks

Colin

Chris Denyer I want one very badly but I currently have two photons. Hoping to add that and a wash/cure station to my arsenal soon

Colin Hughes the screw used on the photon build plate is an M6, I didn't feel like cutting a threaded hole but it is definitely possible. I hope someone improves my design!

Josh Berkley I'm interested in the wash and cure as well in the future but kinda already spent all my tax money lol. Originally I was going to get a Mars or a photon but then i saw the mars pro was coming out so i was just going to wait for that since i had most of the money. Then someone mentioned something about the new Zero and at first i wasn't interested but when i got a $70 off coupon i got more interested and it left me money to buy something else I've been wanting for a while (ps4 with spiderman and the new ff7 remake)

Chris Denyer I have Spiderman as well fantastic choice. The zero is very interesting to me, higher anti aliasing with only small sacrifice to build size and much more affordable

Josh Berkley I've seen videos, the reviews and watched my son play it, when we were visiting home, on my brother's machine. Can't wait for it to arrive this week.

I'll take 20.

Joe Iovino

This for an Epax x1 please

Hahahah nice work!!!

Definitely interested.

Great idea!

Chris Thiessen I wish I had that many printers!

Please post!

And when bored during quarantine, dip it into the resin and blow bubbles!!

No don’t do that lol

lol

Sean Smith it doubles as a bubble wand for the kids ?

under UV light.

That looks like it costs far more resin than it will save.

just fdm it

James Smith the entire print was about 40mL. Not too costly. Also it's more because I don't feel like standing there holding the bottle ?

Josh Berkley ?

I would definitely use something like this.

I have uploaded the files as well as solidworks models to thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4238586

200 IQ

sometimes the simplest ideas are the best ones :)

Si recupera nel tempo meno resina di quanta ne sia servita per stampare il supporto bottiglia

Yes please!

Yes... This is perfect. I'm tired of balancing the bottle or a plastic cup til it empties.

Nice

Cool

Why not just download the bottle to bottle adaptor? Empty the resin in one bottle then use when about to print. Waiting for ax bottle to drain into your vat seems really inconvenient.

not when iam trying to get every drop i can for a print , this would save me time holding the bottle waiting

Stevo Hill https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3761273

but i dont want it in another bottle i'd want it in the tray

404 error on this file.

James Turner like most things on Thingiverse these days

You should have added a small twist to it, that way the resin would gather to one point and fall easier.

Dávid Pelyva not a bad idea, what I have been doing is just offsetting the bottle in the ring, the is actually a concave lip around the inside that allows you to do so

Hobbie Gus Gus the only time you'd be draining in this manner would be to ensure you're using an entire bottle at it's end when there isn't much left. Why would you put such a small amount in a second container when you can just utilize it in the machine

Josh Berkley I just collect the remaining into 1 bottle. Since I use enough of the same resin, it works for me. I have 7 machines running 24/7.

Josh Berkley because you can fill your vat and start a new print, then use this to get every last drop into your newly opened bottle. You don't have to do it into an empty bottle. That's just silly.

And the best part is, you aren't losing print time. I didn't spend $200 or more for a bottle drip stand... I spent the money for a 3D printer.

Paul West To each his own, I don't have time to wait for a bottle to drip empty. Time is money and I start prints ASAP to fill orders.

Hobbie Gus Gus I'm with you 100%... I think hanging it on the printer is just plain silly. Thankfully, what others choose to do with their printer(s) doesn't impact what I do with mine.

Jesper Hvid True, and the website redesign is slow as my grandmother running the 100m dash. (hint she can't because she passed 10 yrs ago RIP).

Hobbie Gus Gus well this part clearly wouldn't be useful to you ?

What about modifing it so work with this stand for the vat tray? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3841061......

I'll look into it

Following

Josh Berkley I cannot download it....

Marcin Stolarek it had given me a lot of problems I'll look at it again

Marcin Stolarek first upload so I apologise

Download on thingiverse finally working. Sorry everyone!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4238586

Simple, elegant, beautiful.

If she loves bird, you may try to print a free one ?

Nope!

worse than it was

I have seen lots of posts about it, not yet one positive in description lol.

Not sure. It's still loading

No. It s...s

Any better sites for free models? Looking for good d and d minis

Right there with you, it sucks.

I'd like it if it worked, but it's been slammed the past few days.

Slow af

It was working pretty well, and now it's just wrecked.

the search option is a mess!

It is terrible and more slow!

NOPE!!

It’s truly terrible.

No problems with it.

i dont, have found it much harder to find stuff than before and heaps more things not related to what i searched for

i like thingiverse although i have never once used it to search for models. my search engines takes me there.. but i certainly do not talk down about a site that gives free models without tons of adverts. but i guess haters gotta hate..

Im getting unusual results. Some not even close to what I searched.

yeah it sucks for real

They have been cleaning house with many models. So posters on thingiverse are saying there stuff is getting removed without any warning.

It’s very slow to load anything..?

Totally a disaster!

Was having problems with it not loading. Based on that experience then yeah I hate it ?

Absolutely hate it..... perfect time for another website to start up and fix all that thingiverse has failed to fix...

I don’t hate it just hate how slow it is right now, granted there is like a 500% boost to average traffic because of al the quarantines so it’s to be expected

Nope I hate it too, struggle to find anything now, I just go to yeggi.com and trawl through their pages until it links me to thingiverse

According to their Twitter. They switched servers and are still working on transferring stuf. They should have everything up and running within a couple of weeks.
Unfortunately they don't have the capacity right now for thousands of people searching FREE stuff on a FREE site. That should get better in the near future.

The virus stay at home advice is adding to the situation many folk are probably seeking 3D printing activities for the family etc,.

Thingiverse has always been laggy and crap - pandemic or not. I genuinely don't know how they've maintained such a badly optimised website for this long.

hate it older page was easier

Kerry Emery me too

It is absolutely appalling at the moment. Worse than normal.

Much more sloooooowerrrrr

I have not heard anyone liking the new page but it is still free and they will probably try to make it better. Besides, everyone and their brother is on Thingiverse in quarantine which screws up the site outside of their control.

I would offer an opinion but it wont' load for me.. so ...

It don't mater the look, but please make it faster!!!

doesn't matter cause the website doesn't fuckin work

For me it has been pathetically slow since Christmas and possibly before.

Darren Wade really? I mean it’s always been slow for sure, but usually loads for me within 15-20 seconds, definitely taking a minute or so now that everyone’s home and downloading.

I had quite a few days I was wanting to search for something and give up after letting it spin for a couple of minutes even though I found the thing through yeggi and knew it existed so that I didn't have to use their interface to search.