Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

I’m currently running 8 bottom layers at 60s, normal exposure 9s at 0.05 layer height. Getting great results.

I'll try your settings. Thanks!

i found the non trans resins need to be 12-16 seconds usually.

You are way overexposured at 12secs

I would try 8/9 seconds exposure I think 12 is too much as well. I've posted my chitu settings and anycubic photon setting if you search the posts. They should give you a reasonable guide.

You are flirting with failed prints. And that is the biggest waste of resin.

You can set the thickness of the supports, along with all their other settings, by going on the right side of the program, it will show "Pad,Supports" under the stl, and you can right click on that and choose the settings you want to modify. That said, the thinner your supports, the more likely they will let go due to suction from the prints for a failure.

Failures create more waste than successes do because you have to use twice as much resin.

Making supports thinner increases the liklihood of failed prints.

Just make sure you add enough support so you only have to print something once.

Unless of course it is something you are making multiples of I guess.

Get rid of the raft and keep your support bases to 1.5mm thickness

You will have problems achieving this kind of precision if you're not using dental resins, and even with those you'll have to take some light diffusion into account. Mine typically get around 0.1 mm wider with proper exposure.

You also don't want to print directly on the bed because first layers will be overexposed and you'll end up with a visible lip.

So I should adjust the dimensions to make room for error.

Palcu Alex You will inevitably have to. You can play with your exposure settings to get as close as you can but you'll never be able get it perfect. That is even before you consider some shrinkage from curing into account.

Ok. Thank you for help!

I made another test and those are the results:
-a 5mm hole can fit a 4,5 mm cylinder tightly, like it's glued
-a 5mm hole can fit a 4,4mm cylinder with a light grip when i turn them
-a 5mm hole can fit a 4,3mm cylinder beeing just right, not tight, not lose
A 4,6 cylinder won't fit and from 4,2 down, it's starts moving inside.
I used 17s normal exposure time.

Sounds about right. If you measure the 5mm hole and 4.5mm cylinder with a vernier you'd probably get 4.75 for each, meaning a .125 mm error on each side. That's about what I'm getting as well. If you're going to print significantly different sizes to that you'd probably have to test for resin shrinkage too.

I don't have the right tools to measure that precise but I figured this should work. ?

Palcu Alex If you're going to be printing precision stuff I'd recommend investing into a solid digital vernier, you can get pretty good stuff for about $30.

I tried to print this but they didn't fit. Otherwise I don't bother that much for precision. It has enough precision for my taste.

Dial down the exposure

Try 10 sec, experiment with lower if it ain't perfect

Sandro Pateishvili would 9 sec be too much of a jump from 12?

Yea I'll give that a go cheers

I generally go down in 0.5 seconds when trying to balance quality vs the whole think dropping off from supports not printing effectively. You could test print this head a few times over as safe test as wont take too long

Brent Mayhew download the Ameralabs test print and print at different exposures to gain an insight into best settings

Whoaaa....that’s way overexposed and ya probably got nowhere near the detail you should...8s is awesome for .04 layers....you’re doing .02(which really isn’t helping but that’s another story)

looks awesome but 12 seconds sounds like you're over exposing it. Off the top of my head i'd say somewhere between 4 - 6 should be about right but i don't have a whole lot of experience with anycubic grey.

My friend you can get way better detail. I use 4 seconds for .02 with opaque grey.

note: screen works fine, touch-screen has been weird for a while and finally stopped working.

Tested and cleaned all cables and connectors.

Anycubic-Lily Jia can you help?

Anycubic-Lily Jia ?

Philip Coulson lol!

I had this happen not long ago. They got back to me within 30 minutes. But it was probably working time over there from them. They had me fill out a form for a new one within 20 minutes, and it was shipping in 2 days.

wow! That is customer SERVICE. I submitted a ticket yesterday, but I figured with COVID-19 that they would most probably be closed.

This was the 6th, so they were still dealing with COVID, just possibly not as much and definitely not as globally.

I just ordered a zero and a wash/cure two days ago and the ETA is the 31st...yet still haven't heard back about a broken LCD on one of my photons. It's weird.

Just got a reply and they will be replacing it under warranty. Yay!!! But it'll take 20-30 days to arrive. :(

Still, great customer service

Sounds wierd.. had the same issue... less than 48 hours after I submitted the support ticked they send me a new screen

Kasper Boysen they said it'll send within 48hrs, but shipping from China during COVID-19....

Joeltron Bament well.. know the feeling... mine was send under a week ago...

I had the same issue and they are send me new parts for my Mars. Hopefully it wont take too long to ship

china has begun to send their workers back to work, virus or no virus.

What is the pop?

Andy Turtle Consiglio that noise of the plate rising and the resin pulling from the fep

Ernest Sandridge Ill nice! Congratulations!

Dang! Wish I had the extra money. Great deals!

Do you know how many how many hours of prints on the photons? I’d to have to replace the screens soon after.

The photon s has a brand new screen I'd say maybe 20hours max on it. The normal photon has about 60 hours

Joel Mendoza see post below

Next Friday is my spare pay day...

Sending PM.

You can get a was n cute new for 159 with a promo code from vog on youtube

Kenny Prestia link and is it 3 day shipping?

Matt Farmer https://youtu.be/qGh7WiZ-v9Y

Promo is in the description

Kenny Prestia good deal...they used to be that price when they first dropped. Now they're up $30

Is it a Photon or a Fauxton?

Gary Hines Gary Hines

I'd have to say this is an issue with the file, looks like an aliasing issue like you would see on an FDM printer because the poly count was too low...

Thanks a lot Anders. I have quite a high polygon count.
Here are the properties:
41778858 vertices, 13926286 polygons
STL file is 670MB.

Saturn V?

Correct :D 1/96 ;)
The whole CSM + BPC needs to be replaced ;)

This is the mesh structure

What are you using to model? is everything "closed"? Slicers hate anything that just a surface, if that makes sense? They can get creative with artifacts like that if something is left to interpretation where it starts and stops.

Don't think this is relevant for curved surfaces, unfortunately

Thanks but this is for angeled prints - I need it printed straight vertical ;)

I am using Rhino3D. STLs are checked in Magics and repaired if needed. The "lines" are in fact on four sides of the part where it cross the X and Y axis.
It seems like the very low X,Y resolution but the Chitubox is correctly set up for standard Photon. :(

Check the image below with the angle chart, because that "wall" is on a right angle, you may just be getting aliasing from the LCD as well, photons hate right angles sometimes so it's good to force them to see things as slopes.

Also, this is relevant to layer height, this particular issue is caused by the pixels of the screen.

I get these lines on vertical surfaces too, and wondering what they are. Not just cylinders, but other flat surfaces as well if perpendicular to the lcd.

Lcd pixels. Something in the anti-aliasing isn't working properly.

Alexandr Uhlik is the printer big enough for the bottom sections?
And of course where did you get the STL? I grew up in Houston in 70s and spent a lot time with my rocket model, it was taller than me.

nice!

Why can't you print at 15 degree angle?

Pete Kastner I just do not want to use any supports ;) to have a better surface :D :D :D . I will probably think about it. Thanks ;)

not 100% but i think i heard the original photon doesnt anti alias, maybe the firmware 4.2.19 allows it, or in general does it better.

The new firmware allows for anti aliasing you need to enable it in chitubox. Problem you could be having with your model is some normal's may be reversed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLgD88KFKJI&feature=youtu.be this can be done in meshmixer. The p roblem people have at times with oddball things happening to their meshes can be because of a multitude of reasons. I keep stressing that if you have a mesh it needs to be checked. Things like Netfabb and a multitude of other programs from free to commercial can do that. I think Cura can check meshes as well, I know its for fdm but if you check the mesh you can resave and use with the photon.

Even though a mesh looks watertight in software, which compensates for the way a mesh looks on screen it doesn't mean its ok to print. When you slice in Chitubox take the time to look at the slices and see if you notice any abnormalities. Yes it could be pixels from the LCD, you'd really have to be unlucky. When artists create meshes they look at the monitor, looks ok, release the model. As to how the structure of the model is, well that becomes the users problem. Imagine it this way you have a building with a lovely facade, everything looks perfect on the outside but the frame on the inside is shot, falling apart or cobbled together. Take the extra minutes check your mesh and you will generally never have any issues again unless they are mechanical.

Ray Sears the CSM stack is my own creation. The rest of the rocket is the old Revell kit ?

Alexandr Uhlik nice work

Exposure times differ between the different Photon models (S needs significantly less time than original, for example), and probably a bit between individual printers due to variations in the UV source (manufacturing variation s, age etc.). If by "recommended settinG", you mean one you got from acommunity spreadsheet, these are a bit hit and miss at best

Niall Forrester ,
That's good to know. Yes I have the Anycubic Photon S. I don't know why I always forget to mention that. (Probably because I think this is a Anycubic Facebook Group lol)
I was using the community spreadsheet as well, yes, but maybe one that was not for the "S" model.

Niall Forrester ,
Thank you for bringing that all to light already.

Mackenzie Akred Was just editing and updating my comment, but the editor closed.

I was mentioning that I am not convinced that 0.02 is really worth it, and would encourage you to do a side by side comparison at 0.05 (or maybe 0.04) and 0.02: my conclu sion was that exposure times for 0.02 were basically no lower than for 0.05 and the detail was not noticably better. Print times, however, are much higher

Most likely the sheet you saw was for the standard model, 10.5 sounds high for the S

Niall Forrester ,
I notice some better details at .02, (I see layering at .05)but you are more than likely correct, I could at least go up to .03 or even .04.

Do you yourself have a Photon S? What would you recommend at say, .03?

Mackenzie Akred I'm running an original, with different resin, so my settings are not much help. I went back to 0.05 in any case (printed at 0.02 for a while, but print times are soooo long)

Niall Forrester ,
Well thank you so much for what was said so far. Much appreciated!

And when I did a side-by-side comparison with my setup, I got best results at 9s for 0.05mm and at .... 8-9s with 0.02mm, so no reduction in exposure time

Thinking about it, it might be worth running an exposure range test - even 8s might be highish for an S model (mostly guessing though)