Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Mean green. Acetone

saliva

Just because this has been posted so much. With the health crisis could a person use ever clear and water?

windsheild washer fluid. get over 12 liters for 11 bucks

I prefer ever clear and strawberries and lemons. But that's just me.

Acetone

Alternative. Here you go. Buy rum. Drink it until you stop giving a shit about curing. Problem solved.

The search bar. I know it sucks, but this question gets asked and answered at least once a day.

Ethyl Alcholol

The sun

H20:HCI ...that'll take care of all rinse and cure issues..... ;)

Michael Bradley-Robbins More like once an hour!!!

Denatured Alchohol, bought a gallon on amazon.

You mean clean right, because IPA does not make the resin cure, that's UV light.
And you can get methanol (fuel line anti-freeze, also called methyl hydrate) or ethanol (denaturated alcohol/camp stove fuel). Keep in mind, both *might* cloud clear resins.

Buy water washable resin and just use water. I paid 5 bucks more for 1 l and I dont need to buy ipa anymore. So it's worth to pay a little more for this one!!!

Buy it for drinking?

I picked up ethanol

Acetone and a brush also works

Test acetone tho.

I like mr clean

yea its hard to find ipa as its being used for more important things. for now i have stopped printing think i can wait for ipa when there are lives at risk. :)

I use Tek1969 in a ultrasonic cleaner it's a detergent, just filter regularly and top-up. Works for me as I do multiple prints every day.

Everclear

I have a heavey duty degreaser which works perfectly for standard resins but it is in a ultrasonic cleaner

Thank you all for the replies.

acetone. still available . works very fast . Use it carefully

Mr Clean.

Any cubic recommends ethanol for cleaning their resins per the website. Denatured alcohol is "usually" ethanol with methanol added however it can contain acetone and other thinners as well.

Go to Home Depot, look in the paint section around the thinners. You should be able to find acetone (as mentioned above) and/or "Fuel" which is usually denatured alcohol. The latter is what I use for all my resin print cleaning.

Acetone, carefully though.

Denatured alcohol is also known as methylated spirits.

Use acetone, but dont leave them soaking for a long time, a few seconds in the stuff should do the trick.

Anyone tried high proof clear booze, like Everclear? Something cheap.

Joe Bone Simple Green?

I just use prusa sliced and auto supports and never have problems

Thanks for the advice

What settings for the printing?

Tilt it 45 degrees maximum from the rear of the model.

Chad Weber any reason for that?

Bruno Shepard So you don’t have all the support nubs and damage visible to the front of the print

Looks like enough to me

What is prusa?

dude i print these all time. try to add a base and print directly on the plate. you will only need like 10ish supports

and hollow that for sure

I would print it standing up less supports and cleanner look!!!

So, I just use Prusa slicer for supports. I then export the file as .stl with supports and use photon workshop to generate the pws to print . I have a photon S and usually print .05 at 8seconds it .02 at 4 seconds

Christian Mendez which makes the surface smoother?

If time isn't the essence I'd print that with a base standing up as well.

i want to make it as big as i can

That's fair enough I like printing big models as well, consider standing it up you should be able to get a taller model, depending on how big the head is. I tend to not worry about printing time it will take as long as it needs to take to print. Its not like taking out a shovel and having to dig dirt. The machine is doing the work, just have an extra coffee while you wait.

Nikola Pijanac How tall can it get standing it up?

I mean, how tall can i print without having to split the model in two

https://youtu.be/S4KRazqrMjE

You can see that in chitubox easily when you import the model keep scaling until you see the model exceed the building boundary, you will see a purple colour appear on your mesh if you exceed the build plate boundary. So you can try various angles unti l your satisfied you get the max size. When you add a platform with big models they will generally exceed the build plate area, don't worry about that at all, just slice and the platform will print where its needed.

Avoid Auto Support , ITS crap. (Chitu and prusa) Avoid Support from the model, only use from build Plate .
And reorient it.

Check and make sure you the same exact settings on each version of chitu

Well I think I found the problem! Resin leaked all over my screen. Soaked in denatured alcohol for a few minutes then took a razor scraper to it carefully.
Fep didn't show signs of leaking through a water test but I'm not taking chances. Replaced It.

I had similar this week. Prints started sticking suddenly and found resin had creeped under. Cleaned it all and retried but had the same issue.

Got new FEP, tried that and resolved it straight away.

Ya my prints came out a ton better. Print failed today. Gonna post about it. Supported elbow didn't print propperly

Probably not supported enough. What did it look like in slicer ?. Can commonly fix by more supports or change orientation.Large flat surfaces parallel to build plate have trouble starting suddenly' when the first thin slice is large and not supported it will deform when the build plate lifts and lowers

Kane Wills thanks

Check your bottom exposure times as well, I did have a similar problem once and that was due to my not shaking the coloured resin well enough, you should always shake well any tinted resin to make sure you don't have residue from the tint interfering with the curing.

First, the model needs to be high quality. Without that, settings won't matter.

For print settings, we need to know what resin you are using.

It is high quality.

I'm using the basic Anycubic White. It says UV Wavelength 405nm

Bump

Bruno Shepard start here and tweak as you learn. This says Anycubic White should be around 15 seconds exposure time per layer at 0,05mm layer height.


https://docs.google.com/....../1crvzMnt......

Sean O'Hayer thanks mate!

Noone can tell you the best settings, because they depend on so many factors. Do an RERF test and you'll get to what works best for your current conditions.

YOU THOUGHT YOUR FIRST TEST WOULD BE THE CUBE BUT IT WAS I, DIO

Curious, what exposure time did you use for the plain black?

Michael Pescuma 10 on plain black, 15 on eco

Chris Kouvelis Interesting.. thanks :) I have a bottle I haven't opened yet and was curious what kind of times it would require.

stl? :>

That cat is cool as hell. ?

Michal Powierza it's on cults3d, cat meme

**D&D monster sexy walks towards your group**

Support failed. Also check the bottom of the vat. Maybe print that ring in a different part of the bed. Your nesting many prints at once

Don't have an answer for why that section didn't print but is that a directly castable resin? If so what is it?

Ya is castable resin. Great kind

Tyler Castile this is it

Printing parts horizontally to the plate is a recipe for failures like this, because every single support has to hold. Try printing at an angle.

I hope so... Those lines look like shit! I cut lines with my whole damn arm!

Yeah, can't say it's my field of expertise

Lol mine either..

yeah, those lines is for a Vacuum cleaner type nose.

Did you mix them with ashes, doesn't looks as white as they should be ?

That's just a demo version

I do plaster casting also and make my patterns out of hydrocal white and do a lot of hand carving. My work bench looks like Tony Montana's desk from Scarface most of the time.

One of these lines of not like the other. One these lines is not the same. ?

I'll donate $5 if you do that.

Next thing you know it’s 10 am, strippers are long gone and so is all my cash and it’s time to drive home from Vegas.....

Chris de Leon If I'm driving home from Vegas, then that was a real trip indeed! I live in Australia lol

Holy, ain’t got no high!

Its always satisfying to make a big print. How are you going to glue it. Using resin and UV light or something else?

It is very much ?

Most of the figures are glued together with super glue, I was thinking to fill the lines of the joints by brushing resin over layer by layer to get a nice finish, still not sure about painting it, it's a very long process and I don't have all the color here, shops aren't open ?‍♂️

I've only ever used resin for glue if I need to fill any areas I will mix resin with talcum powder till its the consistency of tooth paste. The talcum powder allows you to create ridges and other things to disguise gaps as well. If you have undercoat you can always prep it for painting and it will reveal any problems you might have with the joints.

Some parts joints together with barely visible line even holding them in my hand, like the arms on hulks aren't even glued together yet but it doesn't shows much gaps on the joints and that's with the weight on the arm pulling it downward since there is no glue on the hulk yet at all.

Hulk buster would be near impossible to sand with all the details but on the connecting areas most of them seems fairly smooth so brushing resin over and taking my time should do a nice job, there aren't much to fill in just a line really

Spiderman right arm practically shows no evidence of them being glued together ?

I know the problems, it can be a pain. The model is super nice, look forward to seeing it finished. As a by the by depending on the piece, I have dipped parts in resin and hung them to drip dry so to speak allowing them to cure then in sunlight to mask joints with good success. You would have to try on some samples to see if it works for you. Grats on a super nice large print. Im looking forward to a larger printer to not have to piece things together..

Thanks ? yeah I will be saving for a larger sla when all this crisis is over, income drops dramatically this couple of weeks with almost everything closed, but I have been looking at larger sla and some are very ideal size for these figures, but some might still need to be piece together depending on posture, still better than so many pieces with a smaller print ?

By the way the background was printed on a custom built delta I pieced together myself with no auto leveling, I'm a manual guy and it works better for me ?

Agreed I have been looking at some youtube reviews of the elegoo saturn, impressive size.. Most things are shut here in AU nothing is open people inside the houses. Not much traffic on the roads either. Hopefully it all comes together soon.

Very much the same here, supermarket is open, people are generally not great drivers here but they still manage to drive at walking speed with just me behind them in the whole place that are actually moving ? and all I wanted was get in my house the sooner the better

I hear ya.

Nikola Pijanac OMFG TY SO MUCH. I didn't know you could do that with resin and talcum powder.

Where you get this at????

Willian your welcome, its an old trick people use with superglue and talcum powder as well to fill gaps. Just as a by the by I bought cheaply of ebay a 405nm laser something similar to this for the welding it works a treat and being a lot stronger than the standard 405nm pens. https://www.ebay.com.au/....../100m....../173389869910...... due to the strength of the laser be sure to wear protective glasses. Also when your sanding your models don't throw away the powder dust if you collect it you can use that in place of talcum powder as well. Resin is also great for mixing with wood dust from CnC projects that I do. Instead of using wood filler, that way I can achieve a natural colour of the timber. Sands well and when you apply a finish you wouldn't know if you didnt look exceptionally hard.

https://www.malix3design.com/....../full-avenger-scene......