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原文網址 Roy Lo 2015-12-30 00:43:14
魔力紅(明燿資訊), 190度，層高0.2, Cura切片 , 2小時完工...
Boneheads: Raven - Skull Kit - PROMO - 3DKitbash.com found on # Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:289987
原文網址 Dan Salvador 2015-12-28 23:57:32
motor coupling - better than steel , 100micron , 80mm/s , PLA , 210c , Atom2.0
Birk Binnard 2015-12-29 00:07:27
210 seems hot for PLA ;I usually print at 190.
Dan Salvador 2015-12-29 00:08:22
its because i removed the heat shield from the hot end so i need to increase the Temp 5%
Vincent LM Yeh 2015-12-29 00:14:23
89mm/s, really? That's very fast!
Dan Salvador 2015-12-29 00:15:43
80 actually - i miss typed it
郭有迪 2015-12-29 01:04:35
wow even at this speed , it still looks like very well
Dan Salvador 2015-12-29 01:06:34
it could look very smooth if i reduced the speed - but for that application it's good enough :)
Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino 2015-12-29 01:52:43
Your right about the speed. But what is the infill set up for this and parameters ? …… 查看更多
Dan Salvador 2015-12-29 18:48:20
100% infill
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-30 06:52:25
Slicing by Cura or any other slicing software?
原文網址 MoMo Yang 2015-12-28 01:02:45
[不負責任韌體]
有同好希望我講解如何做到某些功能，說實在的，這有點難教學 不如我提供Source Code，有需要的人自己看，當初說過SDCard中其實是不建議放太多檔案的，我也是實作完排序之後，才知道做了傻事，想知道為什麼的人建議把Code看一下就知道為什麼了，所以我做了兩個取代的機制，一個是相反顯示，一個是直接能夠印最新檔案，其他功能請參考列表
1. 增加zoffset獨立調整 2. 增加列印前一個GCode檔案 (重新列印，不是繼續列印) 3. 增加停止列印並回到HOME (讓噴頭不會留在列印件上) 4. 增加GOTO_ZERO (方便調整zoffset) 5. 增加暫停列印並移動噴頭 (為了減少失步的可能，沒有移到HOME) 6. 修改繼續列印讓他可以上次暫停處繼續印 7. 修改檔案顯示順序 (相反顯示，但不保證是最新的在上面) 8. 增加列印最新檔案 (好處是不用選檔)
Source Code => https://github.com/AndroidLinux/Marlin-momo
P.S. 由於我沒有買雷射，所以並沒有雷射相關功能，請見諒，另外由於我的機器裝了很多的Sensor，若要能跑在原版的ATOM2.0上，我自用的韌體必須移除那些多餘的程式(我只留下大家感興趣的部分)，當然瘦身後的韌體是無法直接在跑在我的機器上進行測試，我是請同好冒著危險幫我測試的，若有問題，請告知我，我會再修改。
https://youtu.be/llToETqpcPU
Isaac Tai 2015-12-28 01:23:18
請問"暫停列印再繼續列印"的一段source code 在那一個檔案?
James Lin 2015-12-28 01:32:50
Yang Momo 神，請問你是 Base on v2.0 改的嗎?
Clarence Lee 2015-12-28 01:45:43
ultralcd.cpp
王榮達 2015-12-28 01:46:31
請問這修改適用ATOM 1&1.x代的機器嗎??
張銀崇 2015-12-28 02:04:30
超神
Anthony Lu 2015-12-28 09:43:39
強.........
MoMo Yang 2015-12-28 10:25:23
其實我比較想用強一點的版子，寫個新的韌體
蘇子中 2015-12-29 12:58:11
請問ㄧ下，這個暫停接續功能，是可以暫停多久? 溫度還是一直保持嗎？
原文網址 Hawke ChienSheng Liu 2015-12-27 09:52:03
求救：Macbook Air 如何與 ATOM 2.0 連線更新韌體？ 有類似PC的裝置管理員、驅動程式的東西要處理嗎？ (Mac 新手)
張不凡 2015-12-27 09:53:07
我一樣是用那個 arduxxx 那套，需要嗎？
Clarence Lee 2015-12-27 09:53:41
好像內建就抓的到.. 不然就去http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm 拿osx的driver
MoMo Yang 2015-12-27 15:10:19
直接抓得到才對
Hawke ChienSheng Liu 2015-12-27 17:30:17
抓到的port會是什麼名字呢？
Clarence Lee 2015-12-27 18:13:53
https://www.arduino.cc/....../Guide/SelectingFTDIArduino.png 類似這樣吧..
黃俊傑 2015-12-27 18:18:36
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTmjy3uDhPg 個人用這方式解決的！
張不凡 2015-12-27 18:40:21
在不行我帶我的去研究看看
李穆 2015-12-27 21:51:09
今天也遇到一個學員用MAC，看來台北台中工作營好像問題都差不多
Hawke ChienSheng Liu 2015-12-27 21:59:31
是我一直沒用過Mac。
李穆 2015-12-27 22:12:49
me2
Clarence Lee 2015-12-27 22:13:18
/me 偶而用用..
Hawke ChienSheng Liu 2015-12-27 22:21:18
這時應該呼叫彼得或馬克⋯
Rickey Yang 2015-12-27 23:20:40
一直都用mac
原文網址 陳曉澔 2015-12-27 08:26:12
PETG測試第三回
邱弘凱 2015-12-27 09:03:36
請問:如果將AB膠上在成型色料上
邱弘凱 2015-12-27 09:04:30
是否可以增加光澤
原文網址 林一旭 2015-12-26 14:34:10
PETG 跟 PLA 比較起來~ 強度更高 ~可回收 ~線不易斷~~其他的還在發掘中~~~~
James Lin 2015-12-26 22:02:52
PETG的優點是甚麼?
原文網址 Charlie Ting 2015-12-25 17:58:38
[分享 - 噴頭保養]
好久沒分享心得了，都覺得有一點小陌生.....>/////<
今天來分享一下最近的心得：噴頭保養。
最近除了官方的料之外，也常用明燿推出的點金系列的料。這兩家的料都是我大推的料～～～不過兩家的線料特色不同，使用上的重點也不同。
以官方料來說，因為是純 PLA，所以可以感覺得出線料的質地細膩，列印上的難度會小很多，是非常好入手的料。而它主要都是基礎色的狀態，所以印完往往會思考要上色。
以明燿的料來說，他們的強項是配方的設定，再透過各種色粉來呈現不同的質感，像點金、銀點灰、糖果紅都是我大推的。他們的特色是線料印出後，物件呈現的質感就很到位，不用上色就非常有質感。
但是，線料加入色粉、金銀粉後，其實料性會變。這個變化讓我發現了過去一直忽略的噴嘴內的三角區域。
這些黏性較大或者混合材質的線料，突顯了三角區域的變化和影響。
各位試想，當線料進到這個地方，因為溫度是最高值，所以材料的變化最大，這包括在這個區域的焦化、汽化然後往上跑到鐵氟龍管外側形成碳黑沈積。因此，使用黏性越大的線料越久，在三角區域所累積的頑固材料就會越多，然後造成進料阻力變大，以及出料的不穩定，使物件表面呈現細絲化。
我會這樣判斷的原因是當我發現輸出狀態變差之後，拆下鐵氟龍管並沒有發現管子有異狀出現，但是組裝回去後，狀況的改善有限。
最後，我把噴頭處的快拆上的管子拔掉，線料抽出，再用原廠附的最小號的六角扳手，在噴頭加熱的情況下，伸進去捅一捅、轉一轉，把積在裡面的線料擠出或用六角扳手的球頭端把它拉出。清乾淨後再把管子裝回，線料送入後，整個就恢復順暢，宛如重生。
所以，結論是：
1. 鐵氟龍管不用常換（我當初一開始都用２４０度在印，三個月後也只有變黑，但管子沒變形。其實就不影響列印） 2. 用通槍條的概念去捅三角區域（好像怪怪的），可以有效改善噴頭的輸出品質。 3. 用通槍條不會有傷到噴嘴的風險。 4. 用通槍條的方式很簡單，拆快拆，抽線料，捅一捅，裝回就好了。 5. 噴頭穩定之後，線料特性就不會構成威脅，所以使用線材的膽子可以放大，多嚐試不同材料和成色，整個輸出的多元性會大大提高，樂趣也會提高。
大家有空可以通一通～～～再比較一下差異囉。
Roy Lo 2015-12-25 18:06:14
對啊～捅一捅就好了～
Hawke ChienSheng Liu 2015-12-25 18:16:20
Po Ting Liu
Vincent LM Yeh 2015-12-25 18:16:34
來練習，捅三角區域XD
陳明谷 2015-12-25 18:29:31
這塊圓錐三角地帶 我就算用原廠料也非常注意！
蘇子中 2015-12-25 20:20:19
如果能附圖解說就更讚了
王致凱 2015-12-25 20:38:52
捅一捅+1
Kwok Tony 2015-12-25 21:25:33
有影片更好
陳曉澔 2015-12-25 22:22:33
被大神講完，，，好像要改配方的樣子，，，，，
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-12-25 04:19:12
Possible problem with heating resistor?
I normally print PLA @ 190 degrees. But for the last week I've been unable to complete a print due to poor (or no) extrusion. So after trying various options (like disassembling printhead, different filament, different Z-heights, higher temperatures, etc.) what seems to be happening is the printhead will extrude ok for about a minute or so, but then all extrusion stops. At this point I can neither manually feed filament through the hot end nor can I retract the filament out of the hot end. The only way I can get extrusion back is to disassemble the entire printhead and remove some melted filament stuck in the bottom of the nozzle.
Sometimes heating to 240 degrees helps resolve the problem, but not always. So I'm thinking there might be something wrong with the heating resistor - even though the LCD temperature readout seems to be OK.
I have seen the video about how to completely disassemble the printhead, so perhaps I should try replacing the heating resistor. Are the specs for the Atom2 heating resistor published anywhere? Perhaps there is a place here in the US where I can get a replacement.
Charlie Ting 2015-12-25 08:05:10
Seems not. Details will be later in hours. Today is a tough day to me.
Birk Binnard 2015-12-25 08:11:17
Understand - thanks
Clarence Lee 2015-12-25 09:00:13
If it's problematic after a few mins, the first I would check is the back cooling fan effective. It sound like coldend too hot. Try to measure the temperature around coldend area.
Birk Binnard 2015-12-25 13:50:25
The back fan is OK - I can tell by the sound it makes. I did stall the blades once when I reassembled the printhead, but that was immediately obvious and has not happened again. Only one of my side-blowing fans works (I should have replacement fans in a couple more days) so this could result in uneven temperatures, but would this be enough to cause hot-end clogs?
Clarence Lee 2015-12-25 14:06:10
hmm I don't think so, but did your inner 3*2 ptfe tube already got the replacement? Maybe a photo focus on the hotend & effector. wondering there might be something related. To tell the heat resistor and thermistor ok or not. Check the temperature by other thermometer.
Birk Binnard 2015-12-25 16:48:43
Yes, I did replace the inner PTFE tube and have checked it several times. It is OK; not burned or melted at all and filament passes through it OK. All the parts in the hot end look good actually - I'll take a pic next time I have it disassembled.
Charlie Ting 2015-12-25 17:35:11
Birk Binnard For your situation, I guess you should try to use the smallest allen wrench to push or pull out the materials stuck in the triangle field of hot-end. In general, the printhead have three regions, PTFE, triangle area, extrusion hold. And we always aware to replace PTFE, but never pay attention to the triangle area. As my personal experience, this area is the most important about the printhead. So, after you clean it up, you may solve the problem you have encountered.
Sébastien Pierre 2015-12-25 23:39:35
Could this be that the PTFE tube can be easily moved within the hotend? The extruder sometimes pull back the filament, which I imagine could also pull the inner tube, leading to some filament getting stuck in between the hotend and the end of the tube. I have similar issues from time to time, but manually pushing the filament usually solves the problem.
Clarence Lee 2015-12-25 23:59:38
that means inner ptfe tube too short Or you are talking about longer one?
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 01:00:08
Here is a pic of my disassembled hot end. The internal PTFE tube is 19mm long and filament passes through it OK. The Quick Connector is just below/behind the 2 yellow wires; it has white filament in it. The heatsink comes off easily and is not clogged or dirty. The pieces of electrical tape are mine - they cover up solder joints where I had re-soldered wires I broke during previous disassembly/reassembly attempts. I am a bit reluctant to take the entire hot end apart for fear of breaking either the heating resistor or the thermistor. I have used the end of a paperclip to poke down the top of the hot end and clean out whatever filament is in there, but the same problem keeps recurring.
Clarence Lee 2015-12-26 01:15:10
19m is too short, it would moving inside up & down when retract
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 01:30:08
Originally the PTFE tube was 23mm long, but I found that the bottom end (the end inside the hot end) was ending up in a slight conical shape that seemed to restrict the filament moving through it. Plus, the PTFE tube is a tight fit inside the metal piece that holds it so I don't think it moves very much (if at all.) I guess I can try a piece 23mm long again just to see what happens.
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 02:27:54
OK - I tried a longer tube - 25mm to be exact. Pic #1 shows the longer tube next to the shorter one (19 mm) I had been using. The longer one failed pretty badly. At 200 degrees I was able to push a tiny bit (maybe 4 mm) of filament through the hot en d, but that's all. After that I could neither feed nor extract any filament. So I raised the temperature to 240 degrees - hotter than I have ever used with PLA before - and the filament was still stuck. So I disassembled the hot end and found that the PTFE tube was stuck in the hot end. I managed to get it out with considerable effort (again heating to 240) and Pic #2 show how it looked when it came out.
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 02:28:24
Here is Pic #2
Sébastien Pierre 2015-12-26 03:56:43
Yes, the inner one. Mine lost its triangular head when I pulled after it was stuck, so it does have more wriggle room that what it should.
Sébastien Pierre 2015-12-26 04:00:56
Just out if curiosity, what is the yellow bit in the lower left below the fan?
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 05:09:46
It is one of 2 identical horseshoe shaped printed parts called a quick_connector_spacer. It fits in the space at each end of the Bowden tube and significantly reduces the movement of the tube when the printer does retracts. The bottom line is it helps a lot with reducing stringing. I couldn't find it online so here's a link to the STL file: https://drive.google.com/....../0B3EpEEIPcV....../view......
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 06:05:08
I put a new piece of PTFE into the hot end and reassembled it. Before I did this I made sure the inside of the hot end was clear of any old filament or PTFE residue. With the new PTFE and temperature at 200 I can manually push filament through the hot end, but it takes a lot of pressure to do this - basically I have to grab a piece of filament with some pliers and push hard on it to get any extrusion. I doubt any extruder gear would be able to push filament with that much force so my only conclusion is there is something wrong with either the hot end itself, or perhaps the heating resistor. Could the resistor be heating unevenly?
Clarence Lee 2015-12-26 07:42:28
Could you check if resistor not loosen?It should be stable touch the hotend. But since you said the temperature is stable, it`s not like its moving. Or maybe the thermistor problem? Anyway， use multimeter to measure the heat resistor resistance.
Clarence Lee 2015-12-26 07:46:48
Birk Binnard try to use smallest allen key or others to cleanup hotend inside deepest area when heatup the hotend to 200.
Sébastien Pierre 2015-12-26 09:21:35
What is the expected ohm value? I had a broken thermistor when I first assembled the printer and remember that the manual was quite elusive, something like "it works if it is not zero".
Clarence Lee 2015-12-26 09:38:23
it's a range usually not all the same by batch So it's better recalibrate by M303 it shouldn't be 0 or open As I measured before on different batch I got , usually around 2~4 ohm.
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 13:15:29
It doesn't look like there are any places on either the resistor or the thermocouple to put the multimeter probes. I might be able to see better tomorrow during the day.
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 13:18:07
Actually I found that a 1/16" twist drill works very well for this purpose. Of course I turned it by hand and not in a drill chuck.
Clarence Lee 2015-12-26 13:19:16
multimeter probe on wires where you connect it.
Birk Binnard 2015-12-26 13:20:55
OK - I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks.
原文網址 林一旭 2015-12-24 22:53:33
藍色是petg喔，請期待，白色是pla透亮，光劍~~我來了。
原文網址 黃小潔 2015-12-21 11:00:07
ATOM 2.0 專用加熱床終於完成了～ 輕鬆100度～可以印ABS了～淚
Io HonGwal 2015-12-21 13:47:31
鋁板用藍色膠帶 好像不太有用
Patrick Wong 2015-12-21 14:15:51
另有建議嗎？
Io HonGwal 2015-12-21 14:16:18
我是用口紅膠的
Kwok Tony 2015-12-21 16:42:58
我也想加，要買什麼配件?
張不凡 2015-12-21 17:17:52
嗚嗚, 我也想知道買什麼東西來改
Clarence Lee 2015-12-21 17:21:49
Patrick Wong 玻璃放上就好啦...
Io HonGwal 2015-12-21 17:26:58
這也可以
Genu Wu 2015-12-21 20:08:22
請問有套件可買嗎？
黃小潔 2015-12-21 21:59:40
私我囉～
James Lin 2015-12-21 22:19:56
面板好像有多個溫度計~
張不凡 2015-12-22 13:35:27
我也想知道，嗚嗚
Johannes Groote 2015-12-23 16:26:30
please pn. I need one too.
Johannes Groote 2015-12-29 19:24:11
please contact me, I need one too.
張不凡 2015-12-29 19:58:01
樓主失聯中...
李穆 2015-12-29 20:08:52
1.買這個： http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21543906908412 2.用散熱膏塗滿後貼在玻璃背面，再用耐熱板材墊在底下，與玻璃一起夾住加熱板 3.把韌體裡Configuration.h第146行改#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 4.加熱板加熱線鎖在板子的Bed（風扇與電源間那一組），熱敏線壓個頭插在噴頭熱敏旁邊的插槽（兩個都試試看，有一個是對的） 5.能個話換個12V 300W的變壓器 完工（記得溫度不宜超過70度，材料會軟腳，玻璃也有可能會裂掉）
張不凡 2015-12-29 20:11:45
官方快出了嗎... 噓，小聲說
李穆 2015-12-29 20:12:29
直接PM馬克吧，他神秘兮兮的，總之來聚會的有抽到折價券
林學舜 2015-12-29 20:17:37
感覺要出很多套件 官方在沒屋頂多了好多配件 不知道是出清還是方便大家
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-02 09:34:10
請問您的耐熱板是去那裡買？牌子跟型號？加熱溫度可從Atom3d的主機板控制嗎？
李穆 2016-01-02 11:19:27
到汽車百貨買引擎防火隔熱墊，溫度可調
PC King 2016-01-02 23:14:02
請問溫度建議不超過 70 度, 表示無法當 ABS 熱床? 如果要印 ABS 就需要換支撐材料與玻璃?
李穆 2016-01-02 23:20:54
ABS也沒一定需要超過70度才行啊，我實測能衝到90度，只是原廠玻璃能否長期承受不敢保證而已
PC King 2016-01-02 23:25:07
在下還沒列印過 ABS, 只是一直聽說熱床要 110 度, 是否熱床與環境溫度只要穩定大概 50 度 (PLA當支撐墊) 也可以印好 ABS 呢? 如果可以的話就能去特力屋買櫃子裝並改溫室了 XD
李穆 2016-01-02 23:32:32
溫度高雖然可以降低高低層溫差，減少翹曲，但是溫度越高材料剛度也下降越多，而且一旦印到一定高度，熱床根本加熱不到，所以還是要自己依照物理定律去判斷
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-03 11:46:46
請問您用的隔熱墊是類似這種東西嗎？隔熱墊跟加熱板之間需要上膠嗎？ http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21303278823403
李穆 2016-01-03 14:27:10
要問一下耐熱至少要150度的，要上膠，去車麗屋買比較快
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-03 14:34:24
那一種膠？
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-09 11:05:24
請問ㄧ下熱床的電源線是鎖在藍色噴頭加熱線的右側嗎？
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-09 11:08:51
中間那個凸出物是熱敏電阻嗎？在2.0.4韌體該如何調這個熱敏電阻的參數？
Clarence Lee 2016-01-09 13:27:37
去問熱敏型號規格 紅黑左邊吧...右邊mos這麼小
李穆 2016-01-09 21:19:58
灌我改的韌體就已經都寫好了
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-09 21:24:14
太感謝了
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-09 21:26:01
這種規格的隔熱墊適合嗎？
李穆 2016-01-09 21:34:05
要試試看，有微溫還可以，不能太熱
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-09 22:31:49
您是指照片中間黑紅，橘綠線中間空出來的2pins接熱床12V嗎？
Clarence Lee 2016-01-09 22:37:28
不是..那是在講熱床電源...
李穆 2016-01-09 22:37:39
練習一下自己找，左上角
Samuel Chiou 2016-01-09 22:41:13
感恩
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