Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

Von den Teilen haben wir um Krankenhaus noch genug, da wir sie generell wiederverwenden/desinfizieren. Die Folienschilde hingegen werden langsam weniger. Was aktuell viel knapper ist, sind FFP2+3 Masken und normaler Mundschutz.

Could you not just Print a rig to bend aluminium too that shape and you could produce probably a few dozen a hour if optimized well

Aaron Dunster do it that way.
I hace this process under control and don’t want to modify it.
But thanks 4 your suggestions

Giuliano Fragola no problem mate, the journey of an idea ☺

Do you mean bottom layer exposure time? Normal layer exposure should never be that high.

Also, your build plate is visibly tweaked. You might want to re level.

Either your plate or vat isn't straight...I'ld be more concerned about that straight away.

30 sec norm is 2x as long as it should be

What resin needs that much exposure?

Peter Ede cool thank you! I'm changing the settings

Nipuna Gunarathne I'm using the translucent green. I originally did it because I wasn't sure why my prints weren't sticking to the build plate.

So I'm changing my exposure time to 15 seconds, hopefully my FEP film doesn't get torn apart ?

On that note, does anyone know why it will take a month to get fep film delivered? Is Amazon cracking down on deliveries to the point where they are only doing essentials now?

Thank you for the response everyone! In appreciate all of your input. My brother told me to get the printer with the most community support and I definitely am not disappointed :)

(It's my third print)

Andy Turtle Consiglio they prioritized medical accessories because of the shortage in most countries

Andy Turtle Consiglio also try releveling your build plate https://youtu.be/K4G6ExEtk70

I actually did level (with that video as well!) it and got some good prints, it's just kind of crooked on the x axis and me being the doof I am didn't notice it ? ? . I'm kind of scared of releveling it, because I got 2 working prints with this loadout.

That said when I have some time I'll be rectifying that ugliness

Pic is a 12 hour print I did today. First large successful print I did :D

Thank you so much for your advice!

Juz Cullum +1 on the plate. The top right and bottom left are closer to the vat walls

It looks extremely un leveled

Unlevelled on the y axis? Or the x axis?

-x looks lower than +x

It does look that way, but I imagine its perspective. Otherwise nothing would stick to that build plate.

I agree

So I leveled out out again. Turns out when I removed the print bed to clean it I was making SMALL shifts in the level that was making it less effective.

check the build arm isnt colliding with the VAT

I dont know if its the angle but is your build plate skewed? It should be sitting square in the VAT. And the noise your hearing is the popping sound people talk about, its the model releasing from the FEP which then smacks the glass underneath. Its a good sound nothing to worry about.

looks REALLY angled. that plate isn't flush

Steve Ross I fixed it, it's printing so well now!

Birdy! I want this stl!

I keep resin in my vat for weeks on end with no cover. No issues at all, I just give it a stir with that plastic spatula thing that comes with the machine.

Even went on vacation for 4 weeks with a print halfway through. Got home and all fine. Print turned out great, gave the resin a stir and started up the next print.

Michael Pollard I am coming from the age of darkroom so a little sensitive when I was told it’s light sensitive ? ?

Movement control order? You mean a lockdown? But you have a FedEx delivery, isn't the whole point of a courier service is that they deliver to your door?

Sen Kun movement of essential activities only with reason and documents to support, original shipping address is my office which need to close down and shipper prohibit diversion so receiver must present in distribution centre to self collect, if u ask me then Anycubic may hv to answer as their CS told me they can’t change delivery address after the item been courier

Chiewata I was the same way, printed a cover for the vat and was worried.
Than one day I got lazy and soon found out my worry was for nothing. As long as you keep it closed those yellow panels stop all UV.

To pick up my Ender 3 this afternoon, I had to go down to the pickup location (it's at a stationery store), hold my ID to the window, and then step behind a line on the sidewalk until the guy inside brought it outside, placed it on the ground, and then went back inside.

If you have access to a FDM printer then you might want to look into printing a lid for your vat. I use this one and it works great.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3359046

Sounds like a movie

Alexius Lim yes 28 Weeks Later if it still not showing in your place lucky you but most parts of the world are experiencing it live

Chiewata I’m in singapore we were one of the first to have it ? no police or military on the roads tho

Alexius Lim that’s because your citizens are self discipline over here they are many idiots

Chiewata ? was just interested to know that they set up checkpoints over there.

Try 8 seconds at 0.025 layer height. I find most of the resins I've tried an 8 second exposure gives the best results. I've tried as low as 6 second but tend to get more cases of supports not connecting to the model and so partial print failure. 7 second exposure is half way between - less failures than 6 second but still some.

Daniel Kelly I’d agree with trying 8 second exposure, but not with a .025 layer height. It’s best to do layer heights in .01 increments, as that’s what the machine handles best. Just try the new exposure time with whatever layer height you’re at now and see what results you get.

Also would love to know where you got these rats. Loving the variety of body and tail positions.

Sam Applegarth I keep hearing this about the increments but I don't understand where it comes from. I've been printing commercially at 0.25 for years without any issues.

Its interesting that there isnt any documentation etc about this issue...

Sam Applegarth thingiverse. Just type tabletop rats

Cory Lautzenheiser not seeing them ? creator name?

The Z step motor steps in .010mm increments. If you have a .xx5 layer height, the motor has to micro step. That has inconsistent results. It basically guesses where the half step is, and that's what you get. better to use .xx0 layer heights.

Fred Bey please don't take this as me being funny or anything but I'm hearing this a lot, but never with any scientific or technical evidence. I've been printing at 0.025 micron layers since 2016 and what I'm seeing doesn't show any sign of issues (as ide from where I'm experimenting with cure times or I've tried to shortcut supports). My first 3d printer has a number of layer height presets to select and the one I used for the best balance of time Vs quality was 0.025. I've stuck with it ever since, even on other printers and have to date had no issues with layer lines being visible or printing anomalies or anything.

Can't speak to any other printers you've been using since 2016, but the photon Z stepper motor steps in .010mm increments. You can certainly get motors that step in smaller increments, but the photon is a budget printer.

If it works for you, keep at it. Probably hard to see when your layer is .023 or .028, but it's more than likely happening.

i've been running .02 layers at 6 seconds with a lot of success and getting crip details but i do have to take some time making sure the supports are correct. I will normally anchor the model with a few medium supports then use the thin for everything else.

Zachary T Maheu ahh. Okay i may try that as well

you can have roughly half the amount of surface area contact between the model and build plate than the currently printed model layer adhering to the FEP film... This ratio is dependant on the weight and will need increasing amounts of more surface for the build plate as the object gets heavier. I would add supports along the sides just cause it would look really easy to sand off and keep any guesswork away.

Zachary Chin I concur.

I printed these gun barrels standing on their end just like yours. 120 seconds for 10 layers to stick. I put supports under them 10mm high and then sanded ends smooth after print

ah

Zachary Chin after rub and buff

Zachary Chin

Just use a raft or brim

I would try. I have made straw like tubes standing on the build plate without problems.

Sirayatech Blu and Tenacious are well spoken for in this community and I personally mix about 20% tenacious into my miniatures that have thin brittle segments

Sirayatech looks like it would suit my purposes fairly well, and The Tenacious flexible is well priced also. Thanks for the suggestions!

I use Monocure 3D Rapid flex 100, it’s fantastic

Yeah! A liter goes a long way because you rarely want to print in its pure form (though you certainly can)

Ventilate it well, the urethanes are quite noxious

Monocure is a bit more than what I'm willing to spend at the moment. It's actually what prompted this post.

Shawn , that makes sense - it’s a very useful product, I’m local to the manufacturer so delivery costs are really nothing for me so it’s a bit easier

I mixed elegoo abs-like with anycubic cause it was all I had. 50/50 mix and it seems to have some flex to it. Enough that I won't worry about dropping a mode and it breaking.

Shawn Michael Rains I have found it to be a little more temperature sensitive than anycubic. If it is chilly I hit with the heat gun a little.

I have my unit in an enclosed cabinet and it usually sits at about 80F (~25C) while the machine is running, so I didn't think about that actually!

do you need back side of this shield? If i wolud lean it back a bit to keep it on buildplate ;)

You'll mostly get some curling out at the ends. If it's a flat surface the supports are attached to I'd print it directly to the bed.

ok thank you. What do you mean curling ? The part will curl ? Wasn’t sure you could print it directly in the bed. Just about everything I’ve seen shows supports on the bottom

I’d angle it back some and add more supports along the way. It will reduce the print time by a large margin.

Like this?

that is a removable panel/door so the back part of it will be seen and used a lot

could you explain how that will make the print time faster please?

Jimmy Clark your printer works one layer at a time. The taller the print, the more layers you will need.

By angling the print you cover a larger surface area at once.

If you were to lay it flat on the build plate it would take 30 minutes or so. But standing up depending on size it could take 14 hours.

Jimmy Clark i don’t know how printing flat on the plate would work. It would certainly make it harder to remove.

But printing it at an angle will allow more supports to be placed below and increase adhesion to the plate. In addition to also cutting print time down overall.

Jimmy Clark yep

Christopher Barnes laying other flat would use less support and less of a chance damage when removing the supports but would it make it that much harder to remove the print?

?

Jimmy Clark flat wouldn’t require any supports assuming the back is flat. It would also be the fastest. It’s possible to remove the item. I have never printed flat though.

You can also place stuck prints with the plate in the freezer for a little. It should just fall off once it gets cold enough.

Jimmy Clark angle more to make it lower and shorten print time. Add more supports and spread them around evenly. Also watch these videos if you haven’t.


https://www.youtube.com/playlist......

You can also just click on the "next error" arrow in Photon file validator, and then click on the "red crosshair" ... then you'll get a zoomed in view of the error where you can use left mouse to add pixels and right mouse to remove pixels.
This way you can manually fix your layers too, and sometimes is faster/easier than going back to slicer to add supports.

Xi-Sheng Luo I cycled the errors that way after using auto fix, some of my islands were so big they needed full supports or were the bottom layer of an article hence the back and forth method, the old "paint it to attach" didn't work.

You will need to cure the resin.

Also removing supports is much easier if you soak the print in hot water for a few seconds.

This will also make cutting supports much easier.


Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i......

Christopher Barnes so I used similar clippers when the supports were still flexible. What consistency am I looking for in "cured" resin I don't want to over cook it.

Alex Clarke that’s something I’m honestly not great at. I have a tendency to over cook prints by forgetting about them.

But you want to make sure it’s totally dry before curing. And once cured it should no longer be tacky.

Alex Clarke I just made a post in this group a few minutes ago. In it you will see a large bunker wall with probably 100 supports. I dipped that in hot water and was able to pull everything off by hand after a few seconds. It left minimal marking too.