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原文網址 Birk Binnard 2016-01-06 08:26:50
Replacing nozzle thermistor
This is not a job for the faint of heart. The first problem is getting the old thermistor out of the nozzle. I tried pulling it out using the exposed wires, but this did not work. What happened was each wire broke off, leaving the tiny thermistor stuck inside the nozzle. So I had to literally drill it out using a 1/16" twist drill. Since the thermistor is glass and metal, this is not easy to do. It took several tries before I got it all out.
The second problem is the insulating plastic on the thermistor wires. I bought a roll of new insulation, but it turned out this was a tiny bit too fat to fit into the hole in the nozzle. So I had to re-use the very thin plastic insulation from the original thermistor. Therefore it is very important to keep this insulation and not destroy it when removing the old thermistor.
I also bought some shrink-wrap tubes to cover the solder joints between the new thermistor wires and the yellow wires in the hot-end wiring harness. Obviously you have to remember to put the shrink-wrap tubes on the yellow wires before you solder them the the new thermistor wires. I wonder how many people forget to do this. In my case I just slipped the shrink-wrap tubes over the solder joints and really see no need to heat them.
I checked the results by doing a pre-heat to 200 and everything seems OK. Now I just have to reassemble everything and try printing.
Birk Binnard 2016-01-06 09:50:22
Reassembly was pretty straightforward until I discovered that the new side-blowing fans I have appear to be very slightly larger/wider than the ones I had previously. The net result of this was that the edges of the fans rubbed against the sides of the …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2016-01-06 14:30:37
After making a couple more adjustments y print seems to be going ok. I did have to mess with Z Offset a bit, but I expected this because I had changed the Z-Min adjusting screw. I did discover one very interesting thing however: My slicer had been se …… 查看更多
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-07 08:53:46
Don't forget to do a PID calibration with The New thermistor.Im wondering why yours was stuck. I had The chance to slip mine right out of it.. :/
Birk Binnard 2016-01-07 13:59:08
Well, since there is no test like a real test I decided to print a part I've been wanting to print for several weeks now. After adjusting my Z-offset a bit the print started OK and has been going OK for almost 8 hours now. It probably has 5 more hour …… 查看更多
Peter Wu 2016-01-07 15:58:27
Like Joschka Friedl said, PID settings is recommended to adjust when you replace the thermistor, look forward to see your new works!
Peter Wu 2016-01-07 16:43:30
Here's instruction page for PID setting: https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/......
Bato Wang 2016-01-07 23:26:47
Seems like the problem is solved, bad thermistor.... :)
Birk Binnard 2016-01-07 23:48:58
Well, the thermistor was certainly not OK since I had to literally drill it out of the nozzle. But I also discovered a small piece of PTFE tube inside the top part of the hot-end. My best guess is that piece got stuck in there when I somehow burned th …… 查看更多
Bato Wang 2016-01-08 00:00:26
I think you can get the PTFE tube, thermistor on ebay. The ceramic ring heater is the tricky part to get in US, I ordered it on taobao.com. But even you order a replacement hotend, you might still need to fix the old one, since the Titanium nozzle is still good to use. Anyway, Congrats to you, ATOM2 is good to go again. :)
Bato Wang 2016-01-08 00:05:06
btw: this is the PTFE tube you need for isolate the thermistor lead.... http://www.ebay.com/....../1M-Heat....../301456014260......
Birk Binnard 2016-01-08 00:38:56
Most excellent - thanks again. I just ordered it.
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-08 04:34:20
The ptfe Thing in The Hotend destroys every Print when tiny pieces get stuck.The assembly is not The Problem, getting those damn spare Parts is The Thing.Im working on a new effector so I Can use cheaper hotends...
Birk Binnard 2016-01-08 13:53:55
Joscjka - that sounds like a very bold move to me - using an alternative hotend I mean. I would be greatly surprised if you could find a commercially available hotend made from titanium, and one made from a different metal would surely have different h …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2016-01-08 14:35:27
just M303 to set newer setting, don't be afraid to calibrate by M303. BTW, Depends on what thermistor user, need to change configuration.h …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2016-01-08 17:14:05
I don't understand what's magnetic about the Thingiverse printed effector. The caption says it needs no Z-min stop - but why not? What enables it to tell where the print bed is? And what about all the wires? Are there connectors you can get that let you plug and unplug the wires? I am not that good at soldering those tiny wires.
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-08 17:29:38
Hi Birk, PID Parameter Calibration is an easy thing. Just open Repetier / Pronterface, type in "M303 E1 S200 C8" I think it was. The rest is done by the program and the Firmware. …… 查看更多
原文網址 許兆宇 2016-01-05 15:48:08
請問前輩們有沒有用過還OK的ABS耗材？
原文網址 Joschka Friedl 2016-01-04 17:39:42
Happy new year my Atom friends.
As some of you might know, I got some problems with my hotend last time. It was clogged with PTFE Tube. After disassembling everything and reassembling it, I got - who would've guessed - new problems. But first things first.
1. About that PTFE Tube - My old one was "quite short" and was >stuck< in the lower part of the hotend. Maybe 0.5cm above the heating chamber above the nozzle, where the PLA is "collected". When I tried to measure the length for a new one, I've seen that the newer one is "not as thick" as the old, so it won't get stuck. It just slides right up through to the nozzle. Can this be a Problem?
2. I then printed an iPhone holder for my girlfriend. Had one problem that comes in question 4 (front right corner), but one more that has more gravity to it - A wobble in every layer. Systematically. I cannot imagine how this happens as I didn't change anything while reassembling. Only thing I can imagine is that PTFE Tube inside that hotend nozzle, but I cannot explain logically >why< it is like this. Here are the links to the pictures of the part: http://img4web.com/i/7FGENQ.jpg http://img4web.com/i/823QHC.jpg http://img4web.com/i/JKZD84.jpg http://img4web.com/i/WEGDGV.jpg Any ideas how I can get rid of that?
3. Tried to print some parts for my other printer. Should've been no problem. As i calibrated my extruder (Repetier 100mm equals ~102mm, setting esteps for Extruder to 192,XX resulted in Repetier 100mm => Extruder 100mm) my parts got quite nice, with a measurement of approx. +/- 0.05mm. BUT! Holes came out >too thick<. As i tried to put a smooth rod inside of one part, the hole was 0.3mm too small on right and left (X/Y Axis), Top and downside (which was on Z_Axis) had the 8mm which it should've had.. Had to drill it and had some work of getting that part in. Was wondering where this cames from as other measurement is quite right.
4. and last one When I print parts, I usually print them in the middle of the glass bed. No Prob so far. As i printed the parts for my other printer, I organized them around the bed, using as much space and less time as possible. Good Idea, bad thing for my printer. As i usually do Auto Level and Z-Offset measurement once a week and after every disassemble, I thought everything would be alright. First layer in the middle of the print bed => Nearly excellent First Layer on the left side => Gross, got a little bit destroyed. Z-Offset was too low on this one. First layer on the right side => Well.. It stuck. But the Z-Offset was too high on this one. Same goes for back side => Too low; and Front side => Too high. I was wondering why this happens as G29 should compensate for that? http://img4web.com/i/PVDVW9.jpg <-- here you see left part being in the middle of the table (good) and right part on the front side, as more it goes to the front, the lower the z-offset gets. http://img4web.com/i/QV2UUZ.jpg <-- here is the front part, being on the right side. You can see that the printer didn't really "push" the filament on the bed and instead just laid it down. http://img4web.com/i/RW8QFA.jpg <-- in this one, on the front part, you can see that the second layer was put on it quite nicely, although I have typical travel marks on the part. But anyway the first layer is ruined, resulting in a bad part...
Okay. Sorry guys that I wrote soooo much. But I tried collecting some things and put them together here.
Thanks for any help you guys can provide, I count on you :) Greetings and have a nice day, Joschka
Clarence Lee 2016-01-04 17:59:04
2. how many loops? 3. http://hydraraptor.blogspot.tw/....../why-slicers-get...... 4. somewhere calibration not perfect, check tension & make sure wires not interference the G29
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-04 18:13:25
Hi Clarence :) Thanks for your fast answer. …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2016-01-04 18:15:24
4. It's possible the screw for z min probe tension & cable collector effect the G29 result correctness.
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-04 18:20:11
4. Oh... well yeah, first G29 probings resulted in the printer going crazy in the air because endstop was always open. I cancelled that one, screwed the screw in ('til click) and did Auto-level again. First row good, second row good, in the middle agai …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2016-01-04 18:22:00
Not really, if your cable collector interference or mechanical problem still there. It won't help... Do more check on G29 each movements
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-04 18:25:01
cable collector has no tension on it, that one is for sure. Have to look for that screw again, although nothing seemed odd on that one. If I can't find anything there, are there other options? Anyway, got any ideas about that second problem? :/
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-05 07:28:40
got a little bit off my to do list today, sorry Clarence Lee . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tDy0IJutgk Here is a link to the vid from my printer doing auto-level.
Clarence Lee 2016-01-09 00:00:14
Is 2. STL available or even your gcode.. I could verify how I prints
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-11 22:31:12
Hi Clarence, After long test phase, I found that someting got stuck between the Hotend and quick connector Tube. This resulted in the whole hotend just wobbling around the same style in every print - resulting in that print above. Fixed that now :) Now I just have to get along with that retraction thing in my prints. …… 查看更多
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2016-01-03 08:46:43
Taiwan float wins Most Beautiful International Entry in 2016 Tournament of Roses Parade
The Tournament of Roses Parade is held every January 1st in Pasadena California and is seen by millions of people in the USA and around the world. This year the Taiwan entry won the top prize as the best entry from outside the USA. All the entries are on display for one day on January 2nd. The display area is very crowded and the floats are very large, so it is difficult to get good photos. But here are the ones I got of the Taiwan entry.
原文網址 Charlie Ting 2015-12-31 21:05:08
[透明料對比測試]
上次去明燿送聖誕節的作品給小朋友，順便帶了一小段 T-glass 的料回來玩。昨天試印之後，發現和先前明燿的透明 PLA 似乎有一些差距。但因為最近忙，就沒有研究太多。
今天車展忙完，就回來再試一次。發現了一些差異～～～
先說明下圖左邊是 T-glass 料，剛好不夠了，所以後面沒印完。 中間是明燿的透明料，剛剛出爐的。 右邊也是明燿透明料，但印出來好一陣子了，而且重點是有裝過水。
我從原始的照片放大看，兩個剛印出來的杯子的透明度不相上下，我覺得肉眼大概不太容易分辨差異，若真的要比，可能要像眼科一樣，用不同的圖案來分析顯示的狀態。
但是印出一段時間的 PLA 就似乎有明顯的白化，尤其是裝過水的杯子。
不過，T-glass 的料在輸出時的難度要遠高於 PLA，首先是溫度要高上許多（我在這種冷天氣是用220印），而且還很容易牽絲。（照片另附）
另外，一開始的輸出是用較慢的速度，發現反而有一些細微的氣泡，到中間的部份時恢復原速輸出，氣泡反而沒了。
所以，以 T-glass 料來看，如果是印容易牽絲的物件時，應該會牽到天荒地老。
至於 PLA，我覺得就是隨便印隨便好。目前是用200度印。
列印的過程有興趣的可以看影片。
所以，我個人對透明料的結論是：
1. 透明度相差不大 2. 列印難易差距不小 3. PLA長時間之後會有一定的質變，所以很難作為對照組。 4. T-glass 是什麼料我不清楚，放久了會如何也不清楚，倒是它的氣密性沒 PLA 好，應該是料本身就不太好印造成的。 5. 以 T-glass 跟 PLA 從噴頭擠出後的線條來看，T-glass的清徹度有略高於 PLA。不過列印時的難度可能把這部份的優勢消耗掉了，所以透明度沒差多少。
一點小小看法，給大家參考，沒有什麼個人意見。因為站在我的立場，原料如何就應該能印得如何，那才是王道。3dp玩家應該要能駕馭線料。至於不同的材料特性，就交給線材廠商去努力。好用、價格合理、穩定，才是選擇的重要指標。
Charlie Ting 2015-12-31 23:34:11
T-Glass 輸出過程 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nAV_wTLRt0
Charlie Ting 2016-01-01 00:15:50
明燿料輸出過程 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIz3dCiBU-A
Genu Wu 2016-02-25 15:28:39
請問這明燿的透明料哪裡買？謝謝
原文網址 Dan Salvador 2015-12-31 13:51:47
to all Atom friends : yesterday i posted how to preform "VAPOR SMOOTHING" , i wanted to share my own experience , by the way you can use Chloroform acid instead of Acetone (but use the quantity at your own risk) , enjoy and if you like my work please press "like" on my page https://www.facebook.com/plasteam/
蘇子中 2015-12-31 14:03:24
Amazing!!!
鄭政浤 2015-12-31 15:18:42
英語：chloroform 中文：氯仿、三氯甲烷
Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino 2015-12-31 18:52:56
Do you use primer first before Chrome ? And PLA will smoothen by acetone too ? I thought it only works for ABS ?
Dan Salvador 2015-12-31 18:55:56
no problem with any material except HDPE
Dan Salvador 2015-12-31 18:58:55
Dan Salvador 2015-12-31 18:59:36
Dan Salvador 2015-12-31 19:00:29
i painted the jar in yellow simple spray color , you can see in the second picture the green is fresh out of the Atom 2.0 and the cap is vapored and painted
原文網址 Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 10:11:48
噴嘴經0.3mm金屬絲在200deg時將灰色的濃稠狀流體清理過，而且進料馬達上的擠出輪也用牙刷將PLA碎屑刷乾淨後，並ㄧ照使用寶典p41的4個狀況逐步排除後，列印出來的50*50仍是這種品質，使用的是Atom所附的1kg PLA,故障前所印的物件品質都沒有這種現像，請問還有什麼策略可以解決這個問題？
Odinson Thor 2015-12-31 10:15:33
出料不順，整個進料系統都需要檢查，包括線料太粗、擠出輪打滑、進料路徑太長、回抽長度太長將料抽到冷區、溫度震盪擠出輪電壓震盪.....等
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 10:16:53
另外，印完後，會有灰灰的圓點，請問這是PLA與噴嘴內的鐵氟龍管融熔造成的結果嗎？即始昨天晚上已將噴嘴用0.3mm的鐵絲在200deg時清理過一次了
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 10:18:37
從LCD的顯示來看，溫度振盪不超過3deg
Odinson Thor 2015-12-31 10:21:18
不排除噴嘴內的鐵弗龍碳化，造成磨擦力增加
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 10:23:34
Cura的設定參數
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 10:25:31
如果是鐵氟龍管碳化，流出的流體是灰色如同上一張照片上的圓點嗎？
Odinson Thor 2015-12-31 10:27:18
兩者間沒有正相關，灰色液體應該是加熱過久的PLA
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 10:27:53
如果須要更換噴嘴內的鐵氟龍管，需要加熱到200deg後，將舊的管子拔出後，再裝上新的管子嗎？還是有其他的安裝程序？
Odinson Thor 2015-12-31 10:28:59
建議先排除其他問題後再考慮拆噴嘴
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 10:29:21
在還沒故障前，列印完後流出的液體是白色的.
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 10:42:10
故障前跟故障後都是用同一捆ATOM 的PLA, 昨天噴嘴用0.3mm鐵絲在200deg清理後，用一段PLA 從拆開的噴嘴進料端擠入，從噴嘴流出的PLA冷卻後的直徑以游標卡尺測量為0.4mm, 將噴嘴組裝後從重新進料，從噴嘴流出的PLA 冷卻後也是0.4mm
Odinson Thor 2015-12-31 10:44:43
堵塞這件事不一定是出口堵住，有可能在喉管內就堵了，你的回抽設多少?
Clarence Lee 2015-12-31 10:55:50
8mm 但advanced那頁沒貼沒看到回抽速度等
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 11:06:13
Cura有回抽速度的選項嗎？
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 11:12:42
是這頁嗎？
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 11:21:17
另外，故障是因爲熱敏電阻斷掉，上述的故障排除是更換熱敏電阻後以同樣參數列印故障前成功的物件失敗2次後才進行的，更換熱敏電阻後在200deg溫度振盪不超過3deg
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 11:34:52
4個馬達DRV8825晶片的電壓昨天測量都維持在0.4v
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 14:08:54
左邊是以200deg列印，右邊是以220deg列印，同一捆ATOM附贈的PLA,其餘列印參數不變
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 14:09:57
同上圖
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 14:19:54
有其他的solutions 嗎？
Samuel Chiou 2015-12-31 14:57:50
PLA進料有時會卡住
李穆 2015-12-31 15:32:04
進料卡線，下載這個印來裝： http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:876059 列印速度降到15mm/s再來診斷
原文網址 Samuel Chiou 2015-12-30 23:36:00
請問ㄧ下ATOM 3D有沒有出0.8mm噴頭的計畫？如果沒有，從0.4mm的噴頭來改，印PLA還需要改哪些參數設定？
Clarence Lee 2015-12-31 10:32:03
M6螺牙。 所以其時去混組其它噴頭零件是有機會的。
原文網址 Charlie Ting 2015-12-30 22:13:34
左邊 t-glass, 右邊明燿透明料
陳順得 2015-12-30 22:14:14
層高？
Charlie Ting 2015-12-30 22:15:43
0.2
張不凡 2015-12-30 22:18:38
一杯拿鐵不加糖, 謝謝
李穆 2015-12-30 22:22:37
說反了吧？
張不凡 2015-12-30 22:26:13
謝謝, 一杯不加糖拿鐵
陳曉澔 2015-12-30 22:26:28
有上膠處理嗎？
Charlie Ting 2015-12-30 22:55:37
沒有喔，直出
Charlie Ting 2015-12-31 08:46:44
今天會再用相同的基礎重試一遍，然後才正式分享心得。照片我沒弄錯，但只從照片不一定能看出全貌。
陳曉澔 2015-12-31 08:50:49
其實杯口兩邊壓著按一按就知道什麼料了，PLA沒彈性，T料有彈性，馬上可以知道那個杯子是什麼料做的。
戴士偉 2015-12-31 09:28:45
PLA印薄殼也是有彈性的~ (只是杯口不能壓到底就是了) 不然你的1.75mm線徑的料怎麼使用 XD
陳曉澔 2015-12-31 09:44:52
T料可到底哦....
戴士偉 2015-12-31 09:45:10
這麼軟Q... cool~
陳曉澔 2015-12-31 09:52:41
戴士偉 如圖....
Charlie Ting 2015-12-31 10:21:19
先證明我沒搞錯，至於實際測試要等晚上了。
陳曉澔 2015-12-31 10:22:35
Charlie Ting 是也，你印的特別透也....果然是丁大神....
陳曉澔 2015-12-31 11:04:41
糟糕，講錯話，，0.2層高的 PLA也可到底。 戴大，，，，，我錯了，抱歉啦，，，，，
三帝瑪 2015-12-31 11:29:17
to 陳大 那是新包裝~不用擔心啦~ 不過他們家的包裝一直都是這個德性~ 會在跟他們反應客戶觀感問題XD 我們最近也有再測試跟PO出相關的文章~ 使用上都沒有問題~ 造成您的疑慮真的萬分抱歉 :(
陳曉澔 2015-12-31 11:32:47
抱歉，我刪上面的文，請見諒。
三帝瑪 2015-12-31 11:38:50
戴士偉 2015-12-31 11:40:37
就我聽說好印的 PLA 都不是純的, 各家配方都不同 :P
陳曉澔 2015-12-31 11:41:50
當然，配方就是每家線材商的機密了
原文網址 Dan Salvador 2015-12-30 16:54:33
after polishing and painting - Atom printed PLA can look so good and smooth - just like stainless steel
Charlie Ting 2015-12-30 17:12:28
AWESOME!!!
黃俊傑 2015-12-30 17:25:07
haha you have Chinese name.
Vincent LM Yeh 2015-12-30 17:59:46
Nice to have you here, 一但 瑪庫斯基
Dan Salvador 2015-12-30 18:11:13
非常感谢
Dan Salvador 2015-12-30 22:04:26
for all friends that want to learn step by step how to "VAPOR SHINE" your prints - please use this step by step instruction :
Dan Salvador 2015-12-30 22:04:28
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3sYeiCIVTA
Vincent LM Yeh 2015-12-30 22:17:54
Awesome
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