Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

Is impossibile to download

cool thank you

I ordered some on the 14th and still not said was sent or has arrived so I guess it’s a waiting game going to give them a few days more then ask

Richard Hale good to know.... I. SUPPOSE to have resin delivered from amazon Thursday ? ? but I'm not counting on it :(

So my last anycubic direct resin order took 14 days. This included a 5 day production time, anda 4 day quarantine in the local deport

I brought a 1l bottle of anycubic grey off amazon on the 11th and it arrived here in New Zealand on the 20th

Rantinan Winters where are you located? Dose everything form anycubic ship from China? I just want my resin lol

Australia. Also theroute my resin took was torturous, fedex screwed up and it spent acouple of days bouncing back and forth between japan and china, and another to singapore. the previous order (my mega zero) took literaly 3 days from factory to door

Rantinan Winters ok good to know! :)

Try monocure 3d resin. There is US distributor

I just bought printer and it said 2 to 6 business days then i find out it wasn't even in stock but oh well got great deal on it with coupon code i got.

Benny Lu thanks@

:)

Shine Sing has a awesome deal right now.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPCstore/permalink/907038629750549/?sale_post_id=907038629750549

I use Elegoo resin now. Is this similar?

Dan Gump I think so. Can’t tell much of a difference with the green so far besides don’t smell as bad.

Clint Sturm but whatever about exposure times? That my biggest issue when switching resins.

Dan Gump I’m still working on that myself.

I got a post on the Shine Sing page to get other people settings also for shine sing resin. For a base and cross referencing per color and printer.

Dan Gump It is similar. Bottom exposures 60-70S, normal exposures 8-10S.

What resin are you using?

its at the bottom of the post but its the Anycubic Grey resin

James Swan oh... its in the photo...

James Swan should change your bottom cure time to 70s... https://docs.google.com/....../1crvzMnt....../htmlview......

James Capps those settings are for the Photon, I have the Photon S and these settings have never worked for me

James Swan ??

James Capps thanks though

James Swan https://docs.google.com/....../1vQsW9y5gJKTmv....../htmlview have you tried these?

James Capps yea thats what i started from, i havent had any issues printing miniatures, just lately this suction issue

James Swan thats really weird.. do you have a pic of what your printing with the holes you put for drainage/air?

James Capps The handle bit has a hole in the top and bottom, but it hasnt made it that far to even matter.
Im about to try it again without the handle and print that on its own.

James Capps so here is what comes out, I first thought it was leveling but I flipped the design and it happened in the same side as the first

And the other side always prints out fine

Did you create the supports in chitubox?

James Capps custom supports in chitubox yes

James Swan Every-time I have used chitubox for supports i have had a bad time. Maybe try again using prusa slicers auto supports and exporting the stl with supports and import into chitubox to slice.

James Swan if anything hopefully someone sees all the stuff you have done so far and chime in with some advice ?

From what I can see one of the raft layers is peeling up and seperating from the rest of the raft is that right?

Usually I use only prusa for support.. Where did you find the handle? Is in scale to fit in your plate? ? ?

Jacob Palmer yea that’s it
Sorry didn’t see your msg

What temperature is the room you're running the machine in. Sometimes low temp can cause delamination, but usually it happens in more than one layer...

Try tightening your FEP

Settings?

Machine is not leveled, supports are too thin/few. I’d rotate the model on the x a bit too

No way to tell unless you give us your resin type and settings, and a pic of that model in the slicer,and support settings: that could be any number of things

I used the google spreadsheet data for Siraya blu.
0.05 layer, 12 sec exposure time, 5 secs off time, 30 secs bottom exposure, 8 bottom layers. Average temperature should be around 30-35 degrees but feels warmer than that (it’s Singapore, everything is warm as hell here)

Anders Scot Hudson I’ve recently leveled it using the sheet paper method, but I gotta admit that I’m kinda wonky on the technique.

I'm on my 5th failed print

Always run the cube for your first print, I tried doing more complex stuff, had 4 failed prints before I ran the cube, then it fell into place after. There is a reason they tell you to run the cube first

I would recommend to do an exposuretest, every time you take a new bottle of resin, even by the same colour. Search for "R_E_R_F" Test for the Anycubic Photon S by google, its really simple, fast and worth it.

Looks like you're trying to print large flat objects parallel to the build plate. If that's the case either support the heck out of the side that's failing or rotate it closer to 45 degrees to reduce the suction forces acting on that area as it prints

Looks similar to the anycubic abs like transparent blue, 0.05 mm layer, 60 sec first layers, 13 sec normal layers works for me. If your model is hollowed you need vent holes, also you should really angle your part instead of printing flat.

Few tips, tighten vat screws, build platform grub screw so that it is level and doesnt move, tighten the big red screw too that the bed wont move. Do not bumb the printer when running it, make sure it is on a sturdy table, any vibration amd the layers wont stick. Also, you can change the layer cure time while printing, just pres the gear image to go in to the settings. Mix the resin well... Many thing to go wrong so show us the slicer with your model, and the settings, also share info on the resin. Ive had my og photon for a year now, no issues due to machine, no broken screens, no leaks, works like a Mexican immigrant...

Also of course ive had failed prints, the basic mistakes, like not enough supports, moving printer while running, forgotten to tighten something, wrong settings(different resin, different settings) ambient temperature, letting the resin sit for too long in the vat and not mixing it... Many problems, from my own brain farts...

The main thing I notice is you’re using auto supports. Be sure to go in and modify your supports for any area that isn’t supported. Personally, I was having lots of failed prints until I learned the above and to increase the small support penetration level from 0.25 to 0.35 in the anycubic slicer. program.

I'm using medium supports currently.

Attempt 4: Did a reprint and it seems to work fine... until I decide to check out the progress and pressed pause. For some goddamn reason it suddenly thought the middle of the rail was the correct "zero" height and started moving around there instead of going back into the resin tank!

Attempt 5: Decided to keep my nosey ass out of the process. Realised that the tank looked pretty empty and decided to do a quick refill before I knock off. CONGRATS ON MY IDIOCY! Poured in anycubic white into the siraya blu by mistake. Office is closing, so I'll just leave it as it is and pray to whichever asian god that exists to PLEASE LET ME COMPLETE THIS PRINT!

Problem is, ithe object is a "turbine" so printing it perpendicular to the plate would have caused shitloads of supports. Thought I'll risk it...

Johnny Wee that’s one fix, but makes for more artifacts and more difficult to remove afterwards.

Pretty sure attempt 5 is fucked this time

Yeah I placed plenty of vent holes. Thought I'll risk the flat part as the main part was a turbine and it doesn't really have a lot of surface area.

Better more supports than a failed print though. You will have an awful surface finish on a large flat area that is supported parallel to the build plate unless it's supported enough to stop it sagging or tearing when the build plate lifts away from the fep. Better to avoid that by optimising the orientation. Try using prusa slicer to automatically orient it and see what it suggests.

He can use ball support at the end to reduce supports and vilevalidator

I'd say the various islands are going to be a way bigger problem :x

Lift off the bed

I prefer larger prints. You may want to put a few holes in the bottom, but they won't be a problem if you're adding supports under it. Also, tilt it back just a little so that flat bottom doesn't print all in one go.

Biggest print I’ve done so far

was that one piece!

i was thinking of printing it with no lift at all

Tom Barnes 10. It took 60 hours, 5 print beds

not that many tbh, mostly the arrow fletchings and the braid bottom.
the ear lobes are floating though and the software wont place any supports there, manually or automatically :L

You could print her way bigger, turn her sideways and add some supports, hollow with 3-4 holes on the bottom I bet you could get her to 5-5.5” tall

Tom Barnes then holes in the bottom won't help.

I had printed this model with no problems, I may even have file with manual support ;-)

if you do please can you share that with me! then I can analyse is and learn from it!

PM

Here is my workflow that I have for models like this

1. Hollow with chitubox and add some holes to prevent suction cupping preferably the bottom layers towards the plate. And export stl.

2. Open in prusa slicer and lean it back as to prevent supports on the face and to prevent a large flat surface on the plate. Refer to the beginners guide if you want more info why. Then add auto supports in prusa using the basic settings. reorient till you’re happy with the supports and export stl with supports.

3. Import hollowed stl with supports into chitubox and slice then look through the slice for any large islands and ad manual supports in chitu as needed. Once done take slice to the machine ?

Ps use really hot water to separate the supports after ipa but before cure

Attached a pic of my results

I've had issues with holes on the bottom blending with the surrounding base, so make sure it's fairly large, I'd say 3 or 4mm. Tilting isn't necessary but will help drain as it prints instead of after.

It's working so far

So sorry to hear that. Stay safe.

Sorry to hear! all the best and quick recovery!

Get well soon

We wish your artist and everyone else afflicted with a speedy recovery

Hope the artist makes a quick recovery. Hope the family is ok stay safe everyone

Prayer to the family. That being said, link doesn't work,

too many hits. try later.

Praying for the artist and his family and I have the thrall printing as we speak. It was wonderul you guys did this in the artist honor. It's a beautiful sculpture.

James Teagle ?

Get well soon!!

Amazing warewolf. Our prayers and good wishes for your team from Australia

Sorry to hear that. Hope hi get well soon!

Konstantinos Martinos ?

Access denied ?

That’s awesome. Does it have a stand?

Brian Wulff nah I need to make one for it

Tucker Adams is it able to stand on its own? Orrr

Brian Wulff nope lol

wicked... :)

What is this from? Is it a original character?

James Capps Storm Javelin from Anthem

Beautiful that mate. Can I ask how many parts you were able to get it down to? ?

Rich Harrison 6 parts total. It came broken down from the designer

Tucker Adams good stuff. Love the paint work. Are you on Instagram?

Rich Harrison I am not, I should get one put together though. Need to think of a name for it lol

Tucker Adams let me know when you do ?

i did keychains..

Aaron Strome nice.

I would interested in the stl for these

Ernest Sandridge Ill I saw Aaron's post and his keychains roll. Looked on thingiverse and didn't see an stl so I made these in fusion 360. I'm by no means an expert in Fusion 360 but this was a pretty simple design. A couple of circles and a couple of tangential lines, then extrude and there's a toilet paper roll.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/toilet-paper-roll

this is the one i ended up making in the end the one i posted wouldn't print the extra paper area. but this one works.

Aaron Strome nice. Those look even better than mine. They have pleats and more texture and everything. Like I said I'm a complete new but 3D modeling so I thought I was doing pretty good to get a nice looking roll as I did haha

you did a great job. i'm still trying to learn fusion 360. i find myself spending so much time fixing models i find online i really want to learn to make them.

Aaron Strome ahh. Ya mine got a little weird at the start of the extra bit but it started after a few layers. it just kind of adds a bit of a torn corner look.

few of mine turn out like that too but thought it added to it..

Ya exactly