Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

Put holes in the model and rinse it out during the washing phase. Hollowed models should always have holes in the

Did you put a hole in it?

Yes i put holes in it if i remember coreect

Someone was making/selling led light wands to cure internal resins. You basically inserted the 3mm UV led into a drainage hole and turn it on?

Always add TWO holes to a hollowed model. One lets air out while the other lets water/IPA/cleaning liquid of choice in. Dunk the model, roll it around under the cleaner liquid so that it gets into all the pockets inside, and keep it under until you sto p seeing air bubbles come out. Remove from the liquid, cover the holes with your finger(s) and give it a good shake to help dislodge any stuck particles inside. Let the liquid drain out of the holes. Repeat 2-3 times.

Use a syringe to squirt into the hole

Could you Show us a Pictures of the Print? I would Like to See how big the Print is.

I always add at least 2 of the largest holes that will fit on the model. Once off the plate and out of the ultrasonic cleaner, clean out the interior supports as much as possible using a pair of long tweezers. Then I use a 100 cc syringe to flush the i nterior, taking care to try and get into any interior corner. When curing in sunlight, I always take care to expose the side with holes to sun for a good while. If that seems insufficient, or if its rainy or cloudy, I use these small UVs to illuminate the interior.

When you hollow you also need to ensure there are no "chambers" that hollow without access to your drain holes

Thanks for your replys... will do diffrent in the future (Y)

and where would one get those?

Bill Griffin Amazon. Or you might check eBay.

What is the name I should search for what brand

NVM I found it with Google image check. https://www.amazon.ca/Blacklight-Scenery....../dp/B078RDL8NQ

No name or brand, but here's a link:

https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin......

:P Just posted same one on .ca

Thank you. :)

No one selling as of right now on either Amazon :(

Put holes near the build plate so air can get in while printing

If you put holes in your model, eg at the bottom of the feet of a model or any other place where you wont notice the hole so much, allows for your cleaning fluid to go into the model so you can swish it about and allows for any uncured resin to drain out. If you dont want to add holes then leave your model to cure in sunlight and that will generally get to any residue resin inside the model.

Birdy! I want this stl!

I keep resin in my vat for weeks on end with no cover. No issues at all, I just give it a stir with that plastic spatula thing that comes with the machine.

Even went on vacation for 4 weeks with a print halfway through. Got home and all fine. Print turned out great, gave the resin a stir and started up the next print.

Michael Pollard I am coming from the age of darkroom so a little sensitive when I was told it’s light sensitive ? ?

Movement control order? You mean a lockdown? But you have a FedEx delivery, isn't the whole point of a courier service is that they deliver to your door?

Sen Kun movement of essential activities only with reason and documents to support, original shipping address is my office which need to close down and shipper prohibit diversion so receiver must present in distribution centre to self collect, if u ask me then Anycubic may hv to answer as their CS told me they can’t change delivery address after the item been courier

Chiewata I was the same way, printed a cover for the vat and was worried.
Than one day I got lazy and soon found out my worry was for nothing. As long as you keep it closed those yellow panels stop all UV.

To pick up my Ender 3 this afternoon, I had to go down to the pickup location (it's at a stationery store), hold my ID to the window, and then step behind a line on the sidewalk until the guy inside brought it outside, placed it on the ground, and then went back inside.

If you have access to a FDM printer then you might want to look into printing a lid for your vat. I use this one and it works great.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3359046

Sounds like a movie

Alexius Lim yes 28 Weeks Later if it still not showing in your place lucky you but most parts of the world are experiencing it live

Chiewata I’m in singapore we were one of the first to have it ? no police or military on the roads tho

Alexius Lim that’s because your citizens are self discipline over here they are many idiots

Chiewata ? was just interested to know that they set up checkpoints over there.

Try 8 seconds at 0.025 layer height. I find most of the resins I've tried an 8 second exposure gives the best results. I've tried as low as 6 second but tend to get more cases of supports not connecting to the model and so partial print failure. 7 second exposure is half way between - less failures than 6 second but still some.

Daniel Kelly I’d agree with trying 8 second exposure, but not with a .025 layer height. It’s best to do layer heights in .01 increments, as that’s what the machine handles best. Just try the new exposure time with whatever layer height you’re at now and see what results you get.

Also would love to know where you got these rats. Loving the variety of body and tail positions.

Sam Applegarth I keep hearing this about the increments but I don't understand where it comes from. I've been printing commercially at 0.25 for years without any issues.

Its interesting that there isnt any documentation etc about this issue...

Sam Applegarth thingiverse. Just type tabletop rats

Cory Lautzenheiser not seeing them ? creator name?

The Z step motor steps in .010mm increments. If you have a .xx5 layer height, the motor has to micro step. That has inconsistent results. It basically guesses where the half step is, and that's what you get. better to use .xx0 layer heights.

Fred Bey please don't take this as me being funny or anything but I'm hearing this a lot, but never with any scientific or technical evidence. I've been printing at 0.025 micron layers since 2016 and what I'm seeing doesn't show any sign of issues (as ide from where I'm experimenting with cure times or I've tried to shortcut supports). My first 3d printer has a number of layer height presets to select and the one I used for the best balance of time Vs quality was 0.025. I've stuck with it ever since, even on other printers and have to date had no issues with layer lines being visible or printing anomalies or anything.

Can't speak to any other printers you've been using since 2016, but the photon Z stepper motor steps in .010mm increments. You can certainly get motors that step in smaller increments, but the photon is a budget printer.

If it works for you, keep at it. Probably hard to see when your layer is .023 or .028, but it's more than likely happening.

i've been running .02 layers at 6 seconds with a lot of success and getting crip details but i do have to take some time making sure the supports are correct. I will normally anchor the model with a few medium supports then use the thin for everything else.

Zachary T Maheu ahh. Okay i may try that as well

you can have roughly half the amount of surface area contact between the model and build plate than the currently printed model layer adhering to the FEP film... This ratio is dependant on the weight and will need increasing amounts of more surface for the build plate as the object gets heavier. I would add supports along the sides just cause it would look really easy to sand off and keep any guesswork away.

Zachary Chin I concur.

I printed these gun barrels standing on their end just like yours. 120 seconds for 10 layers to stick. I put supports under them 10mm high and then sanded ends smooth after print

ah

Zachary Chin after rub and buff

Zachary Chin

Just use a raft or brim

I would try. I have made straw like tubes standing on the build plate without problems.

I used to use quite a bit of it. It’s a good resin

A lot of people like it. I use monocure rapid clear, and elegoo rapid grey mostly.

Also. Adding 10% Monocure Flex 100 to my resins and it helps flexibility quite a bit.

Scott Pavlich seems to be the best deal atm in the 5 litre bottle

Chad Elstad oh nice, I will have to try that, hopefully swords and spears won't break as easy

Vincent Balmont I think they will still break if you bend them enough at the 10% level, but with longer, slender parts they're definitely is more give and bendability.

Gonna be testing my bottle of gunmetal over the coming week!
My fav so far is their rapid clear - pretty much flawless results :)

Its dark...while I loved it I had a few complaints that it was difficult to prime over: it wasn’t something I had a problem with personally...all mine primed fine. But I do actually still use it...but mixed 50/50 with Siraya white-abs: makes a super durable part that’s closer to the standard grays out there

Their rapid blue is my absolute favourite. I don't paint, so any resin that looks that sexy with just a clear-coat gets my tick. It just gives you this gorgeous translucent crystal effect.

Sam Bishop I ❤️ their clear!!!

David McGyver got a photo of a print ?

Sam Bishop post pics when u do

Not a recent one on my phone. I ran out of the blue ages ago, but promised my wife I wouldn't buy more resin until I was running low (My first resin order from monocure was 6L, I'm still working my way through it.)

I'll have a look at the shelf when I get home, see if I've got any nice old stuff I could share.

Vincent Balmont Will do!

That said, all of their resins I've tried have been great i.m.o. I got started with the R,G,B 3-pack and the Black,White,Clear 3-pack, and haven't had any issues with any of the 6 so-far. Black's nice as-well, gives you a smoky crystal effect. I know I've got a baby groot in that at home, so I can share that for sure.

I just picked up 3L of the gray to get me through the pandemic. I've never used this brand before.

David McGyver ill check the website, just the 5litre bottles seem the best value here atm

30% off most resin at 3dprinteruniverse.com including monocure if anyone is interested. Code is RESIN30 This is for US BTW

I'm a big fan of Monocure3D's Gray (just plain Gray) also if you buy from them directly grab a sample size bottle of resinaway to try that stuff is awesome!

Read posts in this group; go back weeks and months if you have to. All the questions you are going to have will be there. But first read the Photonsters FAQ.

Thank you ?

i like but i'd have a plug/rod to semi lock in place last thing u want is a small knock and it all on floor

yes please

I'd be interested too

I'd modify it so you could use a similar screw to the normal build plate XD

yea just to keep in place

stl pls

wouldn't be hard to make ya own

pretty usefull actually

something else I didn't know I wanted

that seems super handy!

Awesome!

I'd use it

I'd use that. I'd also echo one of the above comments about tapping a screw hole to use the one that comes stock.

Is this meant to be printed in resin or FDM? Depending on the answer, I might have a design suggestion.

Yes!

Useful!

Genius! I never thought about this haha

Good idea but how much resin would you need to save to make up for the print? Also a little worried as resin can break easily, unless of course this is to be printed on an fdm printer. Nice idea though.

Stevo Hill you're very right I just got lazy and didn't want to cut threads. But the knob screw is an M6 for anyone interested. I figure that the last bits of a bottle won't be too messy if the spill ?

Justin Lincoln you're very right I just got lazy and didn't want to cut a threaded hole, I'll accept the ramifications ? but the bottle I used to demo is half full, and I figure if you're draining it there isn't much left anyway

Yes please. I’ll make it FDM though ?

Josh Berkley I might honestly use this to just siphon bottles into other bottles, for when I finally make my "Franken" Resin

Shawn O'Hara I printed in SLA so I didn't have to use supports and for a more accurate fit on the post. But all ears on that suggestion either way as I do have an FDM printer (that needs tinkering to run again)

yea i get just was my 2cents worth :P

Colin Hughes I printed it on my SLA machine. After curing it's quite strong. The large bottle in the photo is about half full. If you're using this I imagine there isn't much left in the bottle at all so very light

Robert Maefs my FDM printer is currently down and I'm impatient. That's about the gist of it haha

Justin Lincoln I mix all the time. Part of the fun!

Josh Berkley we do what we can with what we have!

As log as its not the last of your first bottle :p

Thanks love the idea

Josh Berkley Fair. I can tell it's resin and looks super clean, but I think this application is more suited to FDM overall. Cheaper, arguably faster but that's pretty moot. I'd think it has less of a chance to break than resin, but again, depends on the resin vs the weight of the bottle.

Anyways, the suggestion is that for those who want to print in FDM, the bottom should be totally flat. It might already be, but I can't tell if it tapers upwards from the mount to the disc or not. Printing in FDM in the orientation it's designed to function in will give the largest cross section of layers and therefore be strongest in that orientation during the printing.

Count me interested for when i eventually get my first resin printer

Chris Denyer best purchase I've made in a long time

Shawn O'Hara that makes total sense. Being that I printed in resin I wasn't so concerned about horizontal and more about vertical continuity, so I designed only considering that. It does in fact taper upward slightly

I ordered the zero (got it for 99) but i guess they are on backorder

Josh Berkley That's a valid point, at 3am my brain is fried from children keeping ne awake lol, of course an empty bottle is light. Duh!

I will see how this develops with the ideas of a securing screw etc.

Thanks

Colin

Chris Denyer I want one very badly but I currently have two photons. Hoping to add that and a wash/cure station to my arsenal soon

Colin Hughes the screw used on the photon build plate is an M6, I didn't feel like cutting a threaded hole but it is definitely possible. I hope someone improves my design!

Josh Berkley I'm interested in the wash and cure as well in the future but kinda already spent all my tax money lol. Originally I was going to get a Mars or a photon but then i saw the mars pro was coming out so i was just going to wait for that since i had most of the money. Then someone mentioned something about the new Zero and at first i wasn't interested but when i got a $70 off coupon i got more interested and it left me money to buy something else I've been wanting for a while (ps4 with spiderman and the new ff7 remake)

Chris Denyer I have Spiderman as well fantastic choice. The zero is very interesting to me, higher anti aliasing with only small sacrifice to build size and much more affordable

Josh Berkley I've seen videos, the reviews and watched my son play it, when we were visiting home, on my brother's machine. Can't wait for it to arrive this week.

I'll take 20.

Joe Iovino

This for an Epax x1 please

Hahahah nice work!!!

Definitely interested.

Great idea!

Chris Thiessen I wish I had that many printers!

Please post!

And when bored during quarantine, dip it into the resin and blow bubbles!!

No don’t do that lol

lol

Sean Smith it doubles as a bubble wand for the kids ?

under UV light.

That looks like it costs far more resin than it will save.

just fdm it

James Smith the entire print was about 40mL. Not too costly. Also it's more because I don't feel like standing there holding the bottle ?

Josh Berkley ?

I would definitely use something like this.

I have uploaded the files as well as solidworks models to thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4238586

200 IQ

sometimes the simplest ideas are the best ones :)

Si recupera nel tempo meno resina di quanta ne sia servita per stampare il supporto bottiglia

Yes please!

Yes... This is perfect. I'm tired of balancing the bottle or a plastic cup til it empties.

Nice

Cool

Why not just download the bottle to bottle adaptor? Empty the resin in one bottle then use when about to print. Waiting for ax bottle to drain into your vat seems really inconvenient.

not when iam trying to get every drop i can for a print , this would save me time holding the bottle waiting

Stevo Hill https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3761273

but i dont want it in another bottle i'd want it in the tray

404 error on this file.

James Turner like most things on Thingiverse these days

You should have added a small twist to it, that way the resin would gather to one point and fall easier.

Dávid Pelyva not a bad idea, what I have been doing is just offsetting the bottle in the ring, the is actually a concave lip around the inside that allows you to do so

Hobbie Gus Gus the only time you'd be draining in this manner would be to ensure you're using an entire bottle at it's end when there isn't much left. Why would you put such a small amount in a second container when you can just utilize it in the machine

Josh Berkley I just collect the remaining into 1 bottle. Since I use enough of the same resin, it works for me. I have 7 machines running 24/7.

Josh Berkley because you can fill your vat and start a new print, then use this to get every last drop into your newly opened bottle. You don't have to do it into an empty bottle. That's just silly.

And the best part is, you aren't losing print time. I didn't spend $200 or more for a bottle drip stand... I spent the money for a 3D printer.

Paul West To each his own, I don't have time to wait for a bottle to drip empty. Time is money and I start prints ASAP to fill orders.

Hobbie Gus Gus I'm with you 100%... I think hanging it on the printer is just plain silly. Thankfully, what others choose to do with their printer(s) doesn't impact what I do with mine.

Jesper Hvid True, and the website redesign is slow as my grandmother running the 100m dash. (hint she can't because she passed 10 yrs ago RIP).

Hobbie Gus Gus well this part clearly wouldn't be useful to you ?

What about modifing it so work with this stand for the vat tray? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3841061......

I'll look into it

Following

Josh Berkley I cannot download it....

Marcin Stolarek it had given me a lot of problems I'll look at it again

Marcin Stolarek first upload so I apologise

Download on thingiverse finally working. Sorry everyone!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4238586

50-50 siriya blu and elegoo gray. Or 30 blu 70 gray.

Shawn McDonald gray?

Mix fast and tenacious 30% tenacious 70 fast

maybe coat your hands with baby powder before you slip on the gloves ???

definitely don't handle wet resin with bare hands, it causes anaphylactic reactions, or eventually will once your body begins to recognize its presence in your skin, that's unfortunate you have some latex-like allergy to the nitrile gloves unfortunately, definitely look for alternatives once the pandemic settles down

The resin used to print is called an "accumulative toxin". Meaning the more you are around it, the worse your reaction will be. This applies to touching and breathing.

Right now you may be able to get some on your skin and wash it off no problem. But eventually it may leave burns or rashes.

How safe you wanna be is up to you. But I would recommend finding alternative gloves over barehanded

That’s bad luck with the gene pool ?

but he might be alright with latex, which are usually cheaper, but again it comes down to finding any currently

I can keep using the nitrile it's just a bit itchy afterward if that's safer then the resin until I can get new gloves.

Just kind of sad that protecting myself leaves me with irritated skin and not leaves me feeling fine.

Miles Redman latex is fine... this would be my first allergy.

thank goodness it's such a specific and easy to avoid one for the future!

Switch to a different type of gloves? Maybe vinyl would work better for you? https://amzn.to/2xVFoUb

if you have any other gloves, even leather, winter, or work gloves, you could put the nitrile over those to protect your skin from the nitrile while you work, not ideal but it would help out in a pinch

Bryan Maenz yea thats rough.... If it makes you feel better, i poop blood sometimes...

out of stock... thats the issue. would love to switch but not a great time for buying gloves. I also should probably leave gloves to people who need them for medical reasons at the moment.

I figure almost any suggestion is going to be out of stock right now :)

Reackon it would work if you used latex gloves under the nitrite ones?

Mcmastercarr.com has everything

Cameron Lee Johnson a little bit, thanks.

I've seen other people say vinyl gloves dont keep the resin out, not sure how true that is.

Tim Borschel Yes, but nitrile over the vinyl may help alleviate the itching.

https://www.amazon.com/West-Chester....../dp/B01N2WMNZ9

Something like these may be an option also and they don't really contend with medical supply chains at the moment as they're more janitorial in nature, just rinse them off in your alcohol bath and set them outside to dry when you're done using them

Good info here https://www.yourglovesource.com/....../39714689...... try a different brand or look for accelerator free nitrile gloves

i use dollar store kitchen gloves and they work great..

I first started with itches and then went to looking like my skin was burned,glossy like
I started to use lotion on my hands before the gloves are put on and it works ok. I use now the Neoprene gloves which are better

Get better gloves. Do not handle acrylate monomers without gloves

This isn't true at all. It's a sensitizer certainly, but not because it bioaccumulates, our bodies actually process and expel acrylates very quickly.

Use a Barrier Cream before putting the gloves on.

I get a little itchiness if I need to wear gloves for more than 5 mins or so.

I'm allergic to nitrile, latex and vinyl (I know, shit luck). Best thing I've found is either barrier cream, or wear cotton gloves as a buffer between your skin and the glove.
Having worked in an industry where gloves are mandatory, cotton liners were a godsend.

Haven't used gloves since I'm grown-up and can remove my prints from the plate and get them in and out of the IPA... All without touching any resin!

As someone with multiple friends/aquaintances who have developed rather serious resin allergies from working with it for years (one who's allergy started while we were on a job together...and he is quite careful) and another who breaks out in full body rash if she's even near the stuff now, I'd maybe rethink your approach.

Try latex if anything.

Latex gloves don't protect against resin sadly, and since you probably have a nitrile allergy, I would suggest trying vinyl gloves. They are a bit finicky, since they don't really stretch, but I have never met anyone allergic to vinyl.

Yep PPE is no joke.

try use talcum on your hands before u put the gloves on... it might work

also gloves comes on and off easier

Get some barrier cream, coat hands b4 using gloves or buy some actual chem resistant rubber gloves