Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » AI

Any ABS-like resin would do fine I think ? ??

Great! Any in particular that you'd recommend for the Photon?

Verity Filipow I have only used elegoo ABS-like grey, I’m very pleased with that one

One thing folks have done with similar dolls in brittle material is to not make the bar from (in this case) 3d printed resin but instead leave or drill a hole and insert a very strong wire- basically a small metal bar epoxied into place so you can stri ng quite tightly for good posing, but without any worry you're going to break the bar.

I'd print from a material as close to the finished colour as you can and then paint with model paints or excellent quality acrylic and use a sealant, avoiding painting the ball joints if you can (as it will tend to chip and flake with wear). Check out some of the awesome full repaints of Monster High dolls on Youtube for inspiration. I highly recommend this channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCitKV0ebZVbtU2nIPihDGMQ

Okay thank you! I will have a look:)

A mix of resins might be in order, here. Siraya Tenacious mixed with an ABS-like resin should do the trick.

Oh fantastic! Thank you so much for all this!

Fantastic, thank you so much for the advice!:)

You may have to experiment a bit with ratios...usually not a straight 50:50 mix. And exposure times will be different, too. Run your exposure test on any mix you settle on before printing.

Awesome, thanks for the tip:)

What sort of range of movement do you want from your BJD? If you only want limited posing, light stringing and a little experimenting with exposure times would be worth the time.

Moderate to limited posing. It's for a client, and I've stressed that these things are fragile and mainly for display only!

Then I would play with the wall thickness and exposure times. Which resin do you normally use?

I'm a fan of ApplyLabWork mSLA grey resin. It has twice the tensile strength than Anycubic and equivalent resins.

Currently still getting through the anycubic green I have but willing to switch!

As stated above: Anycubic Resin is not good for tensile use.

A lot of people have been printing the bjd dragon from myminifactory. They hold up pretty good from what I've been told. Gonna try printing my own when the resin gets here.

Give the green a go...will the BJD be painted? If so, just go with the resin you're use to, if it holds up strength-wise.

Yes, I've printed dolls just fine and they last and Havent broken

What is abs?

Mika Gruszka a kind of plastic

Do you have a different brand you'd recommend instead?

Which resin were you using?

Not that I've used but people on the Internet seem to recommend Siraya Blu as being one of the better ones.

Siraya claims to have printed a hook with it and hung a 20kg off it, summat you definitely couldn't do with the Anycubic Basic . . .

t's fairly expensive, though, at $50.00+ IF you can find it.

Yeesh, okay. I'll have a look, maybe I'll find some over here in the UK. Thanks!:)

Verity Filipow Ah, I'm UK too. Ebay sellers are knocking it out @ £50... for 500ml!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Holy shit! I've just had a look... so insane.. I think I'll try an ABS like resin. Maybe that's a better shot right now.

I have been using elegoo ABS like resin

Sorry just saw this. Yes, I'll be painting it. I'm going to try that elegoo abs like grey, as that's closer to the actual painted colour anyway!

Good luck! And let me know how you go? BJDs are a hobby for me and if I can make it cheaper, yay.

Will do! Thanks!

Happened to me few days ago, I turned it on and off few times and it suddenly reads properly again since ?

Yes turning off and waiting for a few minutes fixes it.

I think I may have fixed it. The newest file was crashing the software. So unplugged and turned back on. Loaded the original Photon cube file, loaded fine.

My file was only 595KB, sliced at 0.1mm layer height. So not very large file. Then resliced at 0.075mm layer height, file size 768KB. That file
worked.

Appears to have a minimum file size limit.

One of your files has a duplicate model overlapping. Delete all and remake.

Best to only slice in multiples of 0.01mm. Search for 'microstepping' for an explanation why.

Bob Deblier 0.1mm is 10x 0.01mm, so it is a multiple

William Lui but 0.075 isn't.

Juliet Starling!

Miniature and figure painters have been doing this for years with blu tack, which is reusable and can also be employed as am masking material. Unless you're mounting a lot at once though a GW mini clamp handle is only £5 or there are FDM 3D printable versions.

I like this idea. I use some loctite blue putty and a toothpick sometimes and hold the toothpick in my fingers. Same principle

Che Fielding this is what I do

Che Fielding I have considered buying one. does it hold irregular shapes or just circles

Josh Berkley cool idea as well

I have a rotating lazy Susan type stand that I absolutely love. Works especially well for larger things like terrain and structures but it has clips and holes that I use to stabilize the small figures on the toothpicks and get a 360 angle at them while not dealing with any trembling in the hands (though I believe any mini figure painter or model builder could perform surgery with ease). It's made by Tamiya

They hold irregular shapes in the sense of GW oval bases. The clamps are stepped so they won't hold anything that's a crazy shape but as long as the base is on the same level and not too weird yes.
If you have an FDM printer though there are a few good files.

Seems really wasteful.

I use popsicle craft sticks and a bit of superglue. Though that’s just from years of miniature wargaming prior to printing things myself.

I just use blu tack

Do you paint your minis with Testors?

Falcon Tom opinion

Tim Parks no, I use the bottle to hold them. I have huge hands. I wear a size 18 ring.. tiny things are not held well with my hands

Hoghead Hoffer Ya. I use craft paint bottles and do the same thing with sticky tack when I’m painting more then one. I’ve got a GW mini holder for single model painting though, just because they are really comfortable to hold and paint.

I was just curious with you because I haven’t heard of someone using testors for painting minis in a long time.

Finger your models?
*touch the resin
Yeh, that sounds better

That mini looks overexposed

Ricardo Sebastian Ibacache Guerra not the point of the post either..

nah I think he meant finger. theres some juicy models out there ofcourse

At first with all the virus craziness goin on i thought this was some weird ass toilet paper that sticks to the finger tip or something.

I've been using the same dirty blue tac similarly for months. Works great.

Austin Cordova that naughty tac has alot of people hooked lol

Hoghead Hoffer Fact, when compared to that blue putty... or anything reusable.

Falcon Tom its an opinion

In the same way 2>1 is an opinion...

Jonathan Alvarado haha ?

Falcon Tom maybe I don’t like using something covered in germs? like reusable putty. Both of us have opinions. Ours are different.

give me a break, its not wasteful. Hes using it to suit his needs, you use what suits your needs... hes not branding you wasteful... who are you? Greta Thunberg?

Two holes are better than one.

I use like 3 or 4 holes. In places where no one sees it.

Are you using transparent resin?

Some use a single uv led and put into the hole

You can see the huge holes on the underside.

Nick Williams nope. Gray.

Dan ahhh

Yes, uncured resin can hide in hollowed prints and creep out later with not so nice results. I always include at least 2 of the largest holes that will fit in the bottom of the print. After washing, I use a pair of curved tweezers to clean out as many interior supports as possible and a 100 cc syringe of cleaning solution to hose out the interior, paying particular attention to any corners or pockets where uncured resin might lurk. When curing, I try to turn the print at least once to expose the bottom to UV light and allow as much as possible into the interior. Finally, if I'm still uncertain about how much the interior needs UV exposure, I use a small UV light inserted in one or both holes to further cure.

I have these prints! Those cape colors are magnificent, what paint did you use?

Paint lid looks like testors

Looks great!! Love it

Josh Berkley

Josh Berkley

Josh Berkley

Those metallic paints are awesome!

Greta Pallack awesome work

Mika Gruszka fantastic

Hoghead Hoffer thanks! It's my first one in a long time.

this is the chrome I use. i cut the end off the marker and dump it in a jar. much easier to apply that way but use a crappy brush. it pretty much ruins them. never use ur best brushes.

What are those metal paints you're using btw?

Mika Gruszka it looks amazing

I've never seen those. Did you brush them or air gun?

Mika Gruszka i posted a pic below these comments

Josh Berkley brush

Josh Berkley I majorly suck with an airbrush. i own 5 high end ones and suck at all of them

Hoghead Hoffer does it keep well in that jar?

Mika Gruszka yes

Hoghead Hoffer great to see how you've developed these techniques! Always trying to soak up what I can

Hoghead Hoffer okay I thought so. I've experimented with ways to mask small areas but it is tough

i buy these jars at hobby lobby in the aisle near where they sell canvas for painting

Josh Berkley always down to help people and learn from them

Thank you! And thanks for sharing your chrome technique :) thought they were metal minis at first

something else Im painting currently

Hoghead Hoffer that paint doesnt ruin the brushes. just use ipa for cleaning. They will be just fine.

How about airbrushing it?

Richard Mastny never tried

Robert Cvengros right on man.. never used alcohol to clean with.. 99% ?

Doesnt matter. 70 works as well. But the stronger the better

Sorry about the lighting

Finished painting this chap and continued the WIP sculpt of the other

paint? I just make models buddy :D

Bugbear boi

Yessik Ziiq awesome

Alex Bainbridge i like that robot arm

Alex Bainbridge nice.. looks tiny

Dominik Böhm thats a cool mini

Hoghead Hoffer thanks, yeah he’s pretty small

Joshua Alexander Gilpin thats supercool

Marsha and the Bear ?

Here's my version of that first figure.

Scott F. Gray i dig it bro

and does the chrome stay so shiny, if you apply glossy clear coat?

Chris Kölsch it stays shiny as long as u dont touch it for 2 weeks ish

i've been printing like a mad man the last week... and i'll be damned if i know where my airbrush is.

I should have airbrushed this guy, brush painting took forever. The other ones I definitely will.

looks good though.

May I ask for your exposure times? I've found this happens occasionally to my drainage holes on hollowed minis and I just need to take a sharp knife/scalpel to the hole before I post-cure to widen the hole enough for the resin to drain properly.

Do you have the anodized print bed that is completely blue or the metal surfaced print bed?

Josh Berkley blue

Josh Dalgliesh I do t know of the top of my head but I think it’s 60 bottom and 12

This happens easily with clear resins. The uv light leaks through already cured layers and hardens resin in the pocket.

Try lowering your exposure times per layer to 8 would be my first recommendation. Second suggestion is increase the time for the raising and lowering of the bed slightly so there is plenty of time for the uncured resin to flow free and drain off the pr int. It'll increase your overall print time of course, but unwanted curing such as this should decrease. Besides, if your reduce your layer times by 4 and increase the "off time" by increasing the raise and lower process by 4, then they'll offset one another and you won't notice a difference in the print times.

will do ty so much

awww ty I’ll keep that In mind.ty

Jimmy Clark no worries man, let us know how it works out :)

Try printing it on its side (edge). I've been printing lithophanes on their sides and have had great success

Amazon should have them if your stateside

Is this on android?

Yeah buddy!

Can you get it to work with the front camera?

Hi I just downloaded but I don’t have options for download type. Only download

Android? :p

not yet

congratulations . the software is available for Android. in case it will be available. I don't have any Apple devices. thank you.

Ok, i will try....

Ok, no try... only with by credits before.... sorry, not for me.... i will try before buy.... and click...erased

I think this will only work on some iPhones because it's use a feature on the frontal camera

Thomas Weissböck you can scan and try for free. Only download STL need credits

Omg, someone else has done these. ❤️ I LOVE the highland cows. We’ve done several and given them to my parents and the in laws.