ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

驅動晶片電壓

也太誇張！

我有調過，0.404 0.403 0.402 0.401 0.403這樣還要調到都一樣嗎？

你自己組的? 你可能整個結構要檢查一遍了, 沒看過歪成這樣的

是啊，自己組的，能歪成這樣我也是覺得神奇，不曉得問題在哪

驅動晶片電壓到底怎麼樣比較好?是要搭配結構的誤差去調整嗎？
我的靠進前面的部分多出了一小截
上面50
左49.86右49.73
下面50.11

同步輪跟皮帶... auto home之後 去拉皮帶看看吧...
會動就不對 記得要鎖在馬達軸心的切面上

檢查球頭螺絲，應該是鬆脫了

之前那一次是有卡到後面，但現在我確定它沒有跑出來卡到後面的機構。皮帶的緊度有用調音器測試過，頻率大約都是49~50Hz。所謂的拉皮帶會動的意思是？

之前也有鬆脫過，所以每一顆我都有重新鎖緊。這次有檢查過，但每一顆都是緊的，還是印成這個樣子…

三軸的皮帶有鬆掉？

王榮達 都還滿緊的，有用調音器測過都約49~50Hz的聲音

皮帶有卡到旁邊的墊片？

沒有，都有約1~2mm的空隙

舒宇宸 請教一下，請問是用哪個APP啊?我也想來用用看.....

水平校正有無問題？

可以參考2.0的寶典
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/printing-problems/#head6

Charge Cheng sound analyzer free 關電源 不要有雜音的情況下，把麥克風靠近皮帶，拉皮帶，有一個頻率會高起來一陣子，就是它

舒宇宸 感謝您！

Charge Cheng 但是後來我發現，用這個頻率測到的還不如用耳朵直接聽的 XD 後來我就靠耳朵聽調整了鬆緊度，就調回正的方形了。

整個塞好塞滿

請問可以分享你的列印件檔案嗎？

所以.....我買了二手的雷組。XD

支援

還是裝一個比較安全

挖到這個，改天來裝上。

No way!
3.0 is not available yet.

I guess I don't know what number is current. I'd be fine with any version.

nozzle mk2 or nozzle mk3

What's your printing issue? Do you have some picture of your printing? That will be helpful to everyone who wanna help you if you share the them with the slice's setting. Maybe you just need to change the PTFE in the nozzle.

Clogged nozzles are a fairly common problem. There are several levels of repair you can try:
1. Remove any existing filament from the printer and disassemble the hotend, leaving the heater disk and thermistor intact. Remove the PTFE tube from the hoten d. If it is blackened/burned on the end replace it. Early ATOM2 models used 3/2 PTFE tubing (3 mm outside/2 mm inside diameter) which is almost impossible to find. Later models used 4/2 which is readily available.
2. If the PTFE tube is OK, hold the hotend with small pliers and heat it to 200 degrees. Working from the top/threaded end, use an unfolded paper clip to root around inside the hotend and pull out any filament that is in there. Use a 0.400 mm drill bit (Amazon has these) or a straight pin from the bottom end to clear anything stuck in the opening. You should be able to see a pinpoint of light when looking through the threaded end.
3. As a last resort, cut one of the thermistor wires and remove the thermistor and the heater disk. Hold just the hotend itself with pliers and heat the threaded part with a propane torch. It will turn orange, red, and then blue. Any crystallized filament inside will be vaporized; you'll see smoke and perhaps even some small flame come out of the hotend. After it cools you'll have to re-solder the thermistor wire when you reassamble everything. Be sure the thermistor leads are completely covered by insulation - if there is a short it will likely destroy the motherboard when you turn on the printer.

i also suffer from clogging. and i just replace my hot-end to E3D hot-end.

How difficult was it to attach the E3D to the printer?

not too hard

use Danny Kuo 's design
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2471214

and 崇義 （廖崇義） 's hot-end
http://infinity3dp.com/tw/html/product/show.php?pid=75......

And the result

Henry Goecke One more thing, if you still need to upgrade parts, you could email to "info@atom3dp.com". The stuff will tell you what you need and how you get them.

That is quite impressive - thanks.

試試看vase？

試試別套切片

KISSLICER

感覺像是那個地方角度太陡，所以當成top來列印

http://www.kisslicer.com