ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

頂出來。

拿下來的當鞭子用 甩ㄧ甩

快速接頭的鐵氟龍管取下(進出端)~可以利用未受潮的pla線段從距離長的那一端往短的那一方頂出~或者試著甩甩看(我是沒試過啦!!)

先退開擠料機那端的鐵氟龍管，再退開噴頭那端的鐵氟龍管，PLA就可以處理了，如果斷了就用一段長一點的PLA通進去鐵氟龍管，就可以推出去斷了PLA，如果是噴頭啫料而造成斷料，方法同上面，只是最後要噴頭預熱下，用手去擠PLA，看到有PLA從噴嘴跑出來，快速抽離PLA，再降溫後復原所有零件，再次重新進料

加熱兩百度, 就熔了~

斷線我試過把線剪尖了去推裡面那截還是可以印(要關回抽)(還是很高機率卡在噴頭平台那 反正開快速接頭推一推就好)

迷路了嗎?

因為Atom也可以雷射雕刻，而且之前看過這裡有人分享Mr Beam II，所以想說可能有人會懂。

有試過TPU 很慘⋯⋯XDD

其實真是天外有天。

印這個洞洞版只用到單頭。但尺寸是280x195

ATOM要印這隻一定要縮小 這樣是不是比較不利?

使用硬料不難吧!單純的回抽地獄而已.

還好才是,用cura切應該不難印,下載來印看看

0.4噴頭0.2層高，縮小至60%,cura 切片,還算可以,原尺寸會好印些

所以你要校正？ 就bed leveling阿！ 裡頭有Auto leveling吧！

https://youtu.be/DrYVG0NEhRI 我是看這篇要做更近一步的校正，因為大面積的列印一直失敗

那個是大大拿新的marlin去改的...我也很想要有這個功能的說，ATOM預設的firmware太舊的

原來如此～ 原來是高手的方法，那我只好先Auto Leceling繼續試試了 謝謝大家喔

你看到的影片是我拍給灌我韌體的人看的，我有在這分享如何校正，你找找看吧

無頭還鎖的到的話... 當削鉛筆？？？
確認一下突出來的長度應該就可以了...

自己畫一個不困難，我試過

材質用pla沒關係?

這樣算有變形喔？....這應該只要不會進料不順就好了。

每次都炒這麼漂亮....可以去賣線材了 XD

這麼順是怎麼造成的？我的都會變成高麗菜絲⋯

這米粉感覺可以裝回去再使用

1.75線材改0.4線材

之前看過 有人把這種線 整理後變成掃把...........
清桌面用

Acebo Álvarez González pa que veas que no soy el único al que le pasa jajaj

STL先檢查一下有沒有破洞，之前印鐵塔的時候也都是同一個位置停。米粉長相也像是同一家出的...

看起來是切片 overhang 快80度，這樣已經是極限了，而且切片形狀看起來是銳角，這種會很容易還沒冷卻就先塌下去，不然就會有很多熱翹曲，雖然加強側吹和放慢速度可以改善，但效果有限。在可接受範圍，還是改模型的角度比較快

這個圖檔很猛!!

I used to have long string too, after I made some adjustments to push the PTFE in hotend fimed, the string length became dramatically shortened,

Something happened to the translation - hotels fimed?

typo, hotels --> hole

You can have some procedures to avoid this issue.

"hotend", spell check problem...

For example, each time when you finish printing with any filament, move hotend aside and extrude some filament out from hotend then retract quickly. (So this string will be as short as possible)

Then pull this filament back after the Y tube to have a clear path to put another filament in.

It's not difficult to do this, but a little bothering.

Hi Charlie - that's exactly what Simplify3D does when it makes a tool change. I found that it works pretty well for small parts, but most of mine are large and for a large one (print time more than say 3 - 5 hours) I consistently got a clogged hotend.

This, in turn, required complete disassembly of the hot end and torching the nozzle with a propane torch to clean out carbonized filament. Since doing this requires cutting & re-soldering wires there are only so many times this can be done before spare parts are needed.

it means your nozzle has something wrong. I think these may happen in your system:
1. Cooling fan is not perform well to cold the nozzle down. (the throat)
2. The thermal resistance of your nozzle is too high.
3. The O-ring is mal-function to resist the thermal passing through.
4. The PTFE tube transfer too much heat from the head to the filament.

You should try to make sure all these works fine, not clean them every time. XDD

Thanks Charlie - I see what you mean now. What you say is certainly possible since my hotend is comprised of parts from 2.0 & 2.5 EX and is totally non-standard. I'll try some different configurations and see what I can figure out.

I think I may have solved this problem. Here is my blog page explaining what happened and what I did to fix things: http://wp.me/P8JtoQ-96

I also have this issue

I tried to push the ptfe tube as deep as I could but still

Did you try to push the ptfe by rotating it at the same time with the heated nozzle? This would make it even closer to the bottom.

Dennis Chen no ididn't thanks

試試看倒頭哉阿！

自己做支撐！

可以拆件嗎？

有點好奇, 大家都不用Simplify3D來切片的嗎?

分件

不玩Fdm支撐也不是用這個做！