ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

加熱板是預防降溫收縮率太高的材質從低溫底板上脫離的一種措施
例如常見的ABS
ATOM官方賣的玻璃板比較便宜,因為他們都有備料可以賣

直徑28cm強化玻璃

有鳥籠感的剪影？

燈座是IKEA買的

買那台3d printer多少錢…

疑，就是atom 2.0呀

好棒喔!

好漂亮~~

腳裝錯了

prime/suck減少...

建議用原廠的設定先試印～

口徑0.4，z-lift 250,wipe 0,skin thickness 小一點，試好了再放大，infill 12%

感謝板上前輩的建議，等一下改參數在重印試試看，謝謝大家

Scratching is bad of course. Can you tell what part of the printhead is doing the scratching? For me it was sometimes the Z-stop adjusting screw and sometimes one end of the bottom cover plate.

I switched back to 2.02 after trying both 2.03 and 2.04 because both of those failed to remember the Z-offset values and I did not wish to include a G29 command in each part I printed.

It's The nozzle scratching The parts. Everything else is above The nozzle.My printer remembers The z-offset and The Auto leveling as far as ive Seen.

Well I'm not sure what to tell you. Maybe my motherboard is missing a mod the newer ones have that enables them to remember Z-offsets better - I really have no idea. But with 2.02 a Z-offset of 0.35 seems to work pretty well for me. And I print on blue tape also. It might be that a value of 0.40 would be a bit better - I'll try that sometimes soon.

I printed without blue tape on 0.36 with Same result. Do You use z-hop?

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1-1/
Joschka Friedl it's depends on" E. Distance between end stop and screw" to the z-offset.
And actually to check z offset , you should manual move to Z0 to check.

But for during printing scratch printed layer (not print bed), it's much related to the z-lift option in slicer.

By z-hop I presume you mean z-lift. No, I don't use that although I have tried it a few times on parts with multiple islands.

Nope. It's not hardware dependent.!
z-offset is a pure software/firmware implement.
It's only related to the usage.

first layer hit bed is not related to the z-hop/z-lift.
it's z-offset issue.
after change between different fw.
If G-29 speed changed, the z-offset changed.
Check by slowly move to Z0 to check the new z-offset value.
Not fixed on previous value.

Okay... The instructions say something around 0.15mm z lift which solves nothing. What are common values for This one Clarence?

My z-offset is nearly perfect as he pushes The filament right on The Plate with no mistakes. But, that scratching Problem (which teared off some of my prints) is just... Its killing my nerves and The sleep of my girlfriend ?

no common value, it depends on your print condition.
Is it only happened on infill parts?
try to print infill slowly, and might need side fan cooling.
Sometimes you are scratching the warping.

anyways, upload your gcode or slicer setting snap might be much help to understand your whole setting for a possible suggest.
BTW, also a video record focus on printing area to check when it's scratching would help

Scratching mostly Comes up on bottom or top full layers. On traveling ways you heat The scratch and sometimes he eben hops over The part, giving huge vibrations but he loses no steps...But it also appears on upper layers when hes, it think its called c ombing, moving over The part to get to another section. You know, when he starts infill in The middle, goes to The right and then moves back to fill The left side. Using cura atm and will Print something tomorrow. Will record that and put it on yt.Uploading cura config too.As i only Print PLA i got my side fans on most of The time.On The actual parts there is no warping.

Oh and Thanks for always helping us clarence, youre awesome :)

It worth to video record to check if it's scratching only on traveling or whole solid infill printing. If it is, increase more z-hop like 0.2 or 0.3mm (depends on your layer height.) to see if it helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjD9hfmo2rA
This is the YT Vid nr 1
Got another where he seems to loses a step in the same print. Upload that later.
http://img4web.com/i/7HSZT7.jpg - those are the parts
http://img4web.com/i/HEGCAT.jpg - Dunno why he didn't print in the middle of those. Testing it again at the moment. But you clearly see the travel ways on the surface
http://img4web.com/i/3TE14.jpg - he totally messed this one up - sadly
http://img4web.com/i/Y56UCJ.jpg - cannot use that one eiter :(
http://img4web.com/i/USHKHT.jpg - again..
http://img4web.com/i/GTHVKJ.jpg - this one was very sad, 4 hours of printing and at the end he didnt print those few layers. Its sturdy and will work, but looks... bad :/

Thanks in advance for your help :)

What's your current z-hop? what's your layer height ?
The bubble between layers is not by this z-hop ,
It's much related to extrution not stable. Check your extruder wheel , hotend, ptfe pipe , filament at least one of it's might got problem.

Could you snapshot your cura settings? or provide the gcode?

BTW, from LCD you can set acceleration to 3000 or less for a try.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir......

This is the packed (winrar) file for the Gcode of the File and my Cura Setup :)

Yeah. The bubble thing came from a clogged hotend - again - i suppose. Cleaned everything this morning. Awaiting my THF Solution for quick and complete cleans.. ~~
Hope the files help you :)
And I reduced Accel to 3000. Lets see what this brings up :)

http://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/

Clarence Lee Yep, looked that one through. Only thing which I can imagine is the tube which comes out of the lower hotend (the one that is visibly clear, that tube thing, which is bendable. Dunno if its called teflon tube?) was a little bent on the las t clean. Just cut a minimal slice of it off. Now its completely straight again.
Extruder Drive gear is clean, cleaned the nozzle with toothpicks and guitar string as I don't have a 0.3mm drill bit at hand... Yeah... Actual print looks okay, just a little bit of stringing.

suggest
1. z-hop try 0.15 ~ 0.25
2. infill speed decrease to 30 or 25
3. retract length decrease to 5~8, 5 could be a start
4. cool_min_time 7

Okay, will try this on the next part. Cool Min Time won't matter as he needs more than a minute for every layer on all those parts, I was told that the infill speed could be even on 100 (which I thought was too fast) so I decided going to 60, which res ulted in much faster prints :D

Retract is a thing in my case... I tried 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10mm... 10mm resulted in the extruder "ripping" the Filament. Going away from the printer and coming back sometimes made me mad because he moved the head but didn't extrude :(
But on 5 I got huge strings, on 7-8 was the best result. Tried 10mm for this one again - with good results. Will take a picture of the print on the bed when its finished this time.

Z-Hop is raised. Only thing I was wondering: He has that "min Travel" or "min Extrude" which prevents short upcoming Retracts. Like when you got to wholes next to each other he just moves over it without retraction - and of course, makes no Z-Hop. Sooo... Should I decrease those "min Travel" and "Min Extrude" values?

Not suggest to infill that fast, at least not now.
keeps it under 40 or 30mm/s for a stable print result first.
the layer bubble also caused by too much retract.. so....

min travel it;s a trigger about retract or not. it depends on your model.

Okay. Print just finished. This time no bubbles, no rip offs in the parts itself. That acceleration thing did something, but the "scratching" is not gone.
Here are two pictures. Only this that disturbs me here is the stringing. Strange thing is: on the lower layers, (its around 51 for whole print) so up to 20~, there is absolutely NO stringing, but above those until the end - Stringing...
Any explanation for this? :S
http://img4web.com/i/7BHW9X.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/TZZFKQ.jpg

tune the
retraction_min_travel = 4.5 to lower to trigger it..
or disable side fan or decrease print temperature.
Decrease travel speed might also help like 100

What is object_sink = 0.5 ? I saw it's usually 0

disabling side fan results in the hotend nozzle just digging in a liquid pile of PLA...
Testing that retraction min travel on next print. Thanks for your help clarence, will print everything this evening and report here :)

hmm your hotend too hot? try lower print temperature ;p

195 degree. Always thought This would be too low ?

I have been printing PLA @ 190 degrees for quite a while with no real problems. I read one posting that suggested higher temps would result in more stringing.

I am Back! haha.
Made two more prints, first one went pretty good with the stringing on 190°, thanks for that hint Birk Binnard :) Nearly zero on all layers.
Also recalibrated my Extruder, which was more than 2mm overextruding. Dunno why.
Made a vid of a part I test at the moment because some M3 Screws have to fit.
On the first vid, you can hear him scratching the whole part and it seemed like he lost a step there. Made an ugly noise after that, after retraction it disappeared.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-u5gOiDiC9g

Second vid was made a layer earlier, nothing bad so far until the last 8 seconds where he scratches the WHOLE part along when traveling from one edge to the other.
https://youtu.be/nbHAjS4LOwQ

Things I've Changed:
- Temp from 195 to 190°
- Z-Hop from 0.1 to 0.3mm (Just to make sure, but it looks like he just "hops" on the beginning of the movement and then goes back down to his layer height?)
- Min Travel from 4.5mm to 1mm

yep. Thats it so far. Of course I changed infill speed, but there was no infill there in the vid, its just bottom layers..

It looks to me like your travel speed is too high/fast; try slowing it down 25% or so. Also - it's difficult to tell for sure but the sounds I heard in your videos were very similar to the ones my printer made when one of the ends of the bottom cover h it protrusions or bumps on the part when the printhead moved over the part. To get around this I took the bottom cover off.

Also - you said you recalibrated your extruder. What does this really mean and how did you do it? I am still having some extruder problems of my own - last print aborted because the hot end simply stopped extruding.

https://www.matterhackers.com/....../how-to-calibrate......
This is the calibration of extruder guide. Its just to tell the printer to extrude the right amount of filament in mm per step. When you tell him via pronterface to extrude 100mm, he often extrudes 102,XX or 98,XX, which is too much or too less.

Travel Speed is at standard 150mm/s. Played with that one too, with no effect but much more stringing.

With the bottom cover, do you mean the windshield which is mounted on the two side fans? I made a huge effort to get it in place. Its nearly on the same height as the endstop screw, which is 1-2mm above the hotend nozzle. If this would scratch my prints, it would literally tear them apart. On my prints you can see the lines the hotend traveled, which are also shown in the G-Code in Cura. They're the SAME lines :(

Also got another problem right away. Was printing a part which had four holes for screws. He printed the whole part so good, but on that final part, he just stopped extruding the right amount of material, I think because of retraction (which I reduced to 8mm)
See picture here: http://img4web.com/i/J59W6U.jpg
You can see on the upper right corner the part and how thin those lines are. On the other corners, I already ripped them off.
Tested a second one with a dummy next to it. Same effect on the dummy :/ Already ripped that one apart in my frustration, so sorry for no photo on this one, but its exactly the same. Even reduced print speed down to 75% with no effect.

It might means still retract too much, or something block the extrude after retract.(check the whole path smoothness from extruder to hotend,)
another worth notice is your 3*2 dia PTFE tube inside the hotend.
too short would produce problem after retract like this.

For traveling
Check acceleration in LCD setting.(it's not direct control by cura)

Hi Birk Binnard remove windshield is only ok if side fan not works.
Otherwise the hotend would lost temperature control when side fan blowing.
Since previously your side fan is not correct one, the angle & height of the windshield might be wrong.

Of course there are other method to be windshield.
For example cover some high temperature tape on hotend.

yes, this calibrate is correct method.
What is your result?

BTW, besides that. I still would runtime tune it by M92 E depends on the printed result.

Since filament not all perfect 1.75mm, it's even oval instead of the circle.

Well I had 102mm extruded which was pretty shocking. Calibrated to times with average values from 4 measurements, now its around 100.02mm.
I measure my Filament at ca~ 4-5 points to take an average diameter, which I then put into cura.
What exactly is runtime tune by m92 e?

If I change accel while printing, does he reset it after print? If no, he does it in my printer. Changed it to 3000 as you said (which had no great results, if i've noticed it correctly, it stops and changes directions much smoother. But scratching is still immense :/

I cleaned the whole path from extruder to hotend nozzle two times now because it was little bit clogged. As my print looks really good in all layers, I suppose its the retraction which is "too many retract on too less print"... So maybe I try this part with no retraction enabled :)

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit
Original might be M92 E200
Currently yours might be M92 E196

M503 could dump current value

But on marlin, it's not so runtime changable.
Might need to change before next print.

after change , need to save (in LCD save or M500 command)

Ah okay. Just looked it up. He stored the 192 Steps per mm in the printer although I put them via Pronterface => EEPROM Settings. Reduced from 200 to 192.
Just adjusted the Accel in there (Motion Menu) to 3000.

also, there is an Aretract value - what does this one mean?

All in all.. I still can't get rid of that scratch. Working on Z-Offset 0.52 with perfect layer adhesion, perfect first layers, but after that... it's just frustrating ;_;

retract acceleration, it's another variable related to the E original should be 9000 ?
Scratch I don't think it can be reduce, it's not related to the z-offset directly.
It's slicer path. maybe other slicer could prevent it.
Or, your z min screw too tight. So it's touch the printed area force is large. You can tune it but would need to find a new z-offest of course.
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1-1/
E. Distance between end stop and screw

yep, this one was a tough one when I built the printer. Took me time to understand that mechanism.
First few prints on auto-leveling he was going crazy in the air because the cable disconnected in the cable connector.
I then fixed that and screwed it i n JUST to the moment it clicked. He auto leveled, after third point, he went crazy again because the effector head "bent" too much. Screwed it in again for just a little bit that a little pressure from my index finger made it "click" and on release it "clicked" again. After every disassemble and around every tenth auto level process, I check the screw. Because of the spring, it sits pretty tight and won't change its position.
Also - if the z-min screw sits too tight, wouldn't he totally rip apart my bluetape on first layer and even ruin that one completely? The rips in my bluetape (seen in the video) came from trying to get large parts off the printer, so my fault, not the machines :)

About Accel: Just made that change with only USB Cable connected, no power turned on. Disconnected the USB Cable, and now when you mentioned that 9000, I connected it again.
Accel did a reset to 9000 (from your suggested 3000) and A-Retract is at 9000 as you said.

I plan to change my slicer to simplify3D as it comes on Christmas. Asked Idan Makutski about his profile (which I can then change to my settings on a printer, just want to have a good starting basement)
I really hope that Simplify is much better there, as Cura starts to get on my nerves. Kisslicer never delivered as good results as cura does.

well, there always a gap between the system condition & the slicer setting.
I would think the kits sometimes hard to sync the assembly condition online ;p

That's very interesting Clarence - and I am not sure what my next action should be. I do have my 2 side fans attached OK, but one does not work and, as I have said before, because of their design I had to install them backwards anyway - namely with the ir blades facing towards the hot end instead of away form it.

In an attempt to clear my hot end from clogs I have taken it apart 5 different times today and done everything from replacing the PFTE tube inside it to cleaning it with a drill bit. Nothing seems to work for more than a few minutes of printing, so I am starting to wonder if I should just replace the whole hot end assembly with a different type or model.

Joschka - I certainly agree that the adjustment for the Z-Min limit switch is extremely critical and probably the most important adjustment for the entire printer. I too had a tough time understanding exactly how the whole switch mechanism worked. On m y printer the proper adjustment ended up with the head of the screw very slightly lower than the tip of the hot end, and this caused collision problems with certain types of prints.

What I did to fix this was to cut off about 3mm from the end of the adjustment screw. The resulted in the screw head being above the tip of the hot end, so it no longer posed any sort of collision problem. It also meant that the adjustment screw spring was more compressed, and this had the added benefit of preventing the screw from turning when I disassembled/reassembled the hot end - something I have done far too many times.

I think you will find Simplify3D to be a much better slicer than Cura - I have owned it for several months now and certainly agree that it is a professional level product. I'l be happy to send you my settings as well when you are ready.

However, I still prefer the Craftware slicer, even though it still has some bugs that are being fixed. Craftware slices faster than any other slicer out there and it has even better pre and post-slicing visualization that Simplify3D. Plus it is free, which is a very nice feature indeed.

try acceleration lower to 500, most other users like this acceleration

Birk: You Can always send me your simplify3D settings. Better earlier than later. Oh, and i'd be happy about those craftware settings, too ;pAbout zmin screw: Mine is above The hotend. So no prob there.Clarence: How to save that accel settings in The Printer? He always resets that...

Oh wow!!! Accell on 500 is neat!!! He doesnt crush The endstops of The three towers anymore ? and The travel ways go waaaay smoother, he still scratches but its a looooot quieter! Thanks lawrence!How can I save that setting that I dont have to change it everytime I start The Printer?

There are a save option in lcd

http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/880658Capture.jpg

Uhh... Either I'm blind or I cant find that save option?Btw, I dont have most of those options? :o like those abs or The whole retract menu? Are those new in 2.04? Not that I need them now but... :D

It must there it`s very basic old menu. Search around. Some options not available depends on setting.

Or just use m500 command

Will try commands. What is The command for setting accel?

M503 show current setting and available command

Control-> store memory

Oh... As easy as it seemed :D

temperature precise/stability
filament quality/condition

All of the above ? ?

Temperature control seems to be a bit problematic, it's still oscillating by -/+ 4C during print. Any tips on how to stabilize?

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/#head5

And how about a photo to check your effector assembly around the hotend?

接上usb 看一下控制板還正不正常..
這樣可能有線路短路controller board造成controller board掛了的可能...
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/power-on-testing....../ …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee 我今天才有時間測，根據上電檢測說明，我在P.14的[按HOME]]步驟出現了問題，馬達沒有運作..因為上週五為止都能正常列印，晶片方向沒有問題，這表示板子故障了嗎?

這是讀取狀況截圖

讚ㄛ一起 q板軍團

怎麼沒拿槍呢？

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