Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Yes, thats a possibility.
Empty the VAT and gently flick the FEP, should make a noise between 300 and 325Hz, is what the information on the web tells us. (use a spectrometer app on phone)

Yes always check the Fep. Usually a quarter turn on each is enough, unless you're down with the frequency freaks and choose that method.

Did this literally an hour ago, it was fine for me. What issues are you seeing?

just get to the start up screen then nothing just disappears

Try updating your graphics drivers

just did same thing

is your av or windows blocking the file. at work i had problems with nortons on a customer's computer blocking one of our programs from running.

I did shut them down or so I think

That looks like a FEP issue, is it the same file each time or a different file but same issue and location?

It happened with different files in the approximately same height too.

Then I would definitely check your FEP, make sure it is tight and clear. If not change it out.

Contact anycubic support

Think about Lift speed

https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

what are your exposure settings (base and normal, IE 60sec & 8sec)? Was the model on the build plate or was it placed on supports?

Hello Tim. Both were placed on supports. First one was straight, second was inclined. Both were 40s & 8s, which was matching the big holy spreadsheet of resin settings.

Hi Merv, thanks for pointing out this resource I didn't know. More reading and testing for me! ;)

Remi Barbarin that first image looks like it should be a flat bottom rather than wavy. Without seeing your support configuration (perhaps not enough, causing the part to flex), there could be under exposure as well which will make the part more soft and flimsy. I'd check the supports to see that they are dense enough and maybe try increasing the exposure time by a second or two if that doesn't help.

Thanks Tim. Will check that out on the next builds. It's very possible I didn't use enough support.

Some useful reading..For what its worth I reckon to angle both ways off the build plate so tip back and slightly sideways if that makes sense..30 degrees off flat and maybe 10 degrees tilt..supports I do auto 50% in chitubox then go around,delete stuff in the wrong place but do all around the edges,corners especially and all extremities...partly to force the resin to print there and partly for support..I think temperature plays a great part 25c minimum, 20% inclusion of a flex type resin will help reduce brittleness , resin brand / type / colour I don't think there is a great deal of difference to be honest..A base colour that will help with painting is as good a guide as any...for me...and yes,some guys always print flat off the buildplate some never have buildplate issues, some never have to change a FEP and some never have failed prints...These people I salute..I'm not that good..or that lucky..or I'm a bit more truthful....Just tickle along quietly and learn from the ones that didn't work..because when it does...Oh Boy :) ..

This Guy is worth listening to : https://www.youtube.com/....../UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFh......

Remi Barbarin "the big holy spreadsheet of resin settings" also indicates that it is a reference setting and (environment) temperature can be of influence...
Possibly a combination of not enough support and under-exposure.... (under exposure keeps it soft, suction will do the rest with the unsupported parts)

Honestly, I haven’t found resin to be good for perfectly flat requirements. I mean, you really wouldn’t want to make anything mechanical with this stuff.

Don't print it flat on the bed. The suction twist the "bottom layers"

would not worry about it. printing directly of the bed is where the base of supports are and those are throw away. so alsong as the models stick and tbh the pics look fine.

i tend to print miniatures directly of the base as the base. again the pics look great. :)

I print a lot off the bed as well, and it's just bad enough that it triggers my OCD. :) I'm printing a better test object now - this is my first Anycubic, so my first go with the bed mount / leveling mechanism.

Man, you're asking a 400€ printer to be as accurate as a 26 000 one. Guess what ?

John Driggers I mean, I wouldn’t say it’s OCD until you’re up at 3 AM printing your 20th imperfect cube because you’re afraid your house might catch on fire if you don’t.

No, I'm asking that it be as accurate as a $299 one a single axis. The $26k one I get 0.025mm out of on three. :)

Ah, I see your problem. Your test equipment is too good! Use cheaper and less accurate verniers and the problems will go away ;)

Also, this is a good solution. There are others out there that do the same thing, and on thingiverse if you want to make your own (metal is smarter to use then resin). Set this right, and making sure the photon itself is level to start with, and it'll eliminate that discrepancy pretty well

https://www.fepshop.com/....../anycubic-photon-easyz0-kit/

That looks a lot like what I want - thanks David !

John Driggers Teh you're already as accurate as you can be with a photon. Now if you want something a little better, take a better resin. The machine itself can't get better than that.

David, do you know off the top of your head if the Zero and the "Normal" Photon mounting heads are the same size? I'm not at the house yet....

John Driggers not off the top of my head, no.

agreed. I recommend SPI. Or as we in the machining world like to call them Sorta precision instruments.

It's a chinese printer, use chinese gauges!

Resins have properties FYI, shrink age and elongation. Unavoidable. Some companies clearly state those properties, some dont. The printer itself is not the issue, the resins are.

Try leveling your entire machine, then level the bed. Leveling the bed really only makes it flush in regards to the build plate, but if the machine isn't level, nothing will be...liquids need to be level to the world, the build plate only needs to be level in regards tot he bed

David Collinson just an FYI - not the same, nor the same mechanism. I was able to carefully tune most of it out by repeatedly leveling and retightening. Gonna try and figure out what’s causing it and see if I can come up with a solution.

You think it's the resin that causes one half of the print to be thicker than the other?

you are fighting with exposure(over/under) and bed leveling, best way to avoid those is to put 5mm supports on it.

I had the same problem. I kept leveling and always the same issue. After the first layer it would loose its leveling. Doesn’t matter how much I tighten the top screw! I installed the easy leveler with some adjustments and the problem is solved

As a bonus the quality improved afterwards, I hadn't realised it had got worse as it happened over time...

Supports came away cleaner too!

yea thats good life from a screen over a year. mine is a couple years old now. the only time i ever had something like that was from light getting into the unit. since i covered the panels i have not had the problem.

photon - S? do you have a link to where you bought the LCD?

Orignal Photon I'm afraid, not sure it the screens are the same.

Here's the link anyway:

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/....../ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i......

Having seen the difference in quality I'll be changing it periodically whether it's failed or not!

Old screen

New screen

How many hours did you have on your screen (approximately)?

I wouldn't like to hazard a guess... I can tell you it's had 14 litres of resin printed on it though!

Basically a litre a month!

Chris Crute The link you posted is to an Elegoo Mars replacement screen. Do the mars in the photon use the same screen? I mean I know all of their stats are the same, but do they have the same connector at the end of the ribbon cable?

Tom Gannon It's made by Elegoo but the title states fits photon. The connectors are different but the screen comes with an adaptor. It fits and works perfectly.

Chris Crute really good to know. On the US Amazon site there is a big price difference between the two.

I got one of these as hell of a job coping with the fact that the ribbon cable hasn't got the curve in the end.

Dean Eyre I just put a loop out the side where it comes down from the LCD then it lined up resonably well!

facing same issue now, changing resins, stirring them a lot, seems i am wrong and exchange lcd is only way.
have my photon since november

Miroslav Zajíček are you getting decent prints as well or just that?

prints are still okay, but need to clean fep after each print ( so far 3 rounds with this issue)

Sounds identical to my issue. Mine was fine until about 3 rounds before I gave up and changed the LCD.

That’s actually the first sign I know I’ve got a screen replacement to do. Running my photons 24/7 I usually start to get that at around the 4-6 month range....so you got way more than I have, but then again my machines really aren’t ever even turned off

https://memory-alpha.fandom.com/wiki/Flying_parasite

This is happening to me after only 4 months of ownership... Wondering if I should just go for it

anyone know which LCD to order for the photon-S?

Very impressive what set up/ settings?

Jup it can Print small ?

Nothing special, 0.5mm layer height and 8 second exposure.

Where did you get that enormous pencil?

The enormous pencil store of course.

Shawn Michael Rains oh lol it's the photon group lol thought it was my cr-10 group lol

urs is definitely smaller

My benchy is bit bigger i think, but that is only benchy i ever printed

What sizes in mm? Did you just scale the original stl?

I made a 5mm one...

It measures about 3x6mm

And I just scaled it in the slicer

What resin did you use?

anycubic grey

Looks to be nearly the same scale. Interesting to see you have similar artifacting on the overhang in the front.

I think this was 10% if I recall. The 5% failed... This was printed flat on the build plate.

I think the other one was about 25%

Tero Konttila I need to know where you got that Batman bathtub hotness

Ernest Sandridge Ill remixed it with multiple models. Yo can find it at thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3945990

My smallest part so far - crank sensor....