Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I've been getting them on a few of my prints aswell tbh

yeah, i'm thinking its normal and i just never noticed them before since i haven't done a print this big that's flat

It's because the print is flat it's your layers

Nathaniel Cooper aye, even when I angle some of my stuff I still get em

Good undercoating won't see them

Ive actually printed that exact head, its setting on my desk at work. Has lines as well.

yeah, i assumed it was normal, just figured i'd check in case it was a sign of a larger issue

good to know

Where might I find those files? I've seen a few different models, of varying quality

PM me and I'll link the google drive to you

Done

Whoah what is that?? I use green stuff. I here miliput is good as well

Green stuff

Green stuff for large gaps, small seams can use model putty found in hobby stores

Green stuff works good for me

Apoxie sculpt works well, cheaper than green stuff and can be mixed with green stuff together to get best of both worlds.

Bro where did you get this?!

+1 green stuff.

That model is AMAZING. What is it?!

tamiya putty

reg miliput for large gaps white miliput for med and green stuff for small

Whoa quick responses! Thanks guys!

Model is from https://www.patreon.com/CometLordMiniatures

Grave titan!

Here is my other favorite from the same guy.

Amy , I’m entering him into the mega x mini contest!

Welcome and good luck!!!

Pretty certain more skulls should do the trick

I just use a small bit of resin from a pipette and then drip it in the seams and hit it with a uv light

I am all about liquitex modeling paste. Or milliput (cheaper green stuff)

I use a syringe and layer resin slowly to fill seams.

I like this better than brand name green stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/....../B00....../ref=mp_s_a_1_3......

Kneadatite is actually the original brand. I've been using it since the late 80's.

Milliput or Bondo glaze then let dry sand smooth and paint

Kevin Piatz yep

woooo, where to get this model

RIcardo
Model is from https://www.patreon.com/CometLordMiniatures

If it's resin printed (I've not tried this with FDM) use a syringe with liquid resin and a UV light. I go around the join bit by bit applying some resin into it and then quickly (swap away syringe so UV light doesn't hit it) apply UV light to harden t he resin. Just work in a steady manner and don't over apply.

I did the Depth Dragon and Tarrasque from those other photos that way. Works a charm and the way the resin flows into the seams makes it look natural when painted.

Y'know.... I'd say it would work with FDM PLA prints as well. It's the resin doing the bonding. I'd just be careful with deformity on thin bits due to the resin heating up when curing.

Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty.

baking soda and super glue

Seems like a lot of people aren't familiar with Perfect Plastic, it's one of the best model putties I've ever used. Love the stuff.

Joshua Alexander Gilpin where do you buy yours?

I got vallejo putty and it’s fantastic, you can put in the parts to fill and when is drying you can brush it with water to smooth it and it’s really cheap

UV light and Resin with a covered syringe. Fill slowly and cure as you go. EASY Seamless. I see no reason to use or buy anything else.

Uv resin and UV handheld 405nm Flashlight

https://ebay.to/30tdZ6b

Charlie Brett I order off amazon but if I do recall a lot of hobby stores also sell it.

Charlie Brett Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, Natural https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i......

I use greenstuff. Two part blue and yellow plumber's epoxy.

Its what gaming miniatures were sculpted out of back in the days before computers and 3D printing.

Nick Williams this world is great. Which model is this from that Patreon specifically? Is there a legacy cache/area with past models?

Joshua Alexander Gilpin thanks!

Charlie Brett no problem

Jarrod agreed, this world is great and I’m happy to live on it.

This model is the grave titan, a February release I believe. Should be in his shop soon.

Sorry to disagree with the other answers but the easiest way is to apply Tamiya tube putty. Directly or with picel and acetone. Then sandpaper

Francisco Javier Jimenez Roldan it’s totally ok to disagree!

Green stuff is my go-to

Milliput is the way.. Greenstuff or plastic putty from vallejo ? ?

Left field answer, but if you are painting it anyway, I've had pretty good luck with wood putty, followed by some light sanding.

Vinicius ?

A syringe of resin shirt in and uv light cure. Do a section at a time

That or auto glazing putty from walmart

With the flesh of this beast's conquered foes, I assume.

Vallejo Plastic Putty... ;-)

Beat me to it.

Maybe with vallejo putty

Vallejo plastic putty

liquid green stuff from citadel

Green stuff.

Putty for me. That's a lot of gaps to fill and the putty is more cost effective than green stuff. Plus I prefer the putty (although it's a bit messier to work with).

Nice Grave Titan!

Green stuff where did you get stl for that

Chris Visser from personal experience it does work with FDM prints as well. And quantities are so small because you're working in tiny layers that heating up is not an issue at all.

Hemming cometlord minis patreon!

Nick Williams I need to get up and get started first

Paul - good to have this confirmed.

Personally I’ve never been able to get prints very clean with simple green, even in an ultrasonic. Mean green is supposed to work better or mr clean, not sure which kind though.

I read that as keep drinking stuff? ?

John Chrapkowski ?

try warm soapy water

John Chrapkowski I had to go back and read it again after reading your comment.

my wife hates me i keep stealing her makeup brush the big ones she uses for adding blush some soap warm water and prints are golden.

if your planning on undercoating and painting your models dont waste too much elbow grease on cleaning.

Nikola Pijanac I do, just wondering how often to change out the ISO/Cleaning solution

takes me all of 5 minutes to dip and swish model in metholated spirits some soapy water let dry, cure outside if sun is out and start painting

i have a small plastic bucket with metholated spirits in it i empty it when i see sludge forming at the bottom, the resin sinks to the bottom, you cant miss it. pour out into a clean container the stuff thats ok and clean out the bottom. ive only ever used ipa a couple times and found metho is just as good.

I suggest a ‘dirty’ wash then a clean wash. After clean wash get too bad make it the new dirty and pour a new clean. It’s going to depend on model and how long you let it drip dry first to see how fast it gets dirty

just as a by the by, i am yet to change the fep in my anycubic, its about 2 years old now, i never take out the resin from the vat, had vat half full for weeks at a time with no issues, just dont leave the printer door open, 98% success with models sticking on build platform, and have only releveled once in last 14 months.

I hate you, lucky bugger.

It depends on how resiny your prints are. Personally, I run the IPA through a curing cycle every time, filter it, and store it in a 'tainted' bottle. Then reuse that, topping up with clean as required.

Stuart, pretty much the same here, IPA in AU is expensive. The Anycubic printer like all others isn't a sacred cow, its a matter of trial and error. Nothing is set in stone. It's meant to be a fun exercise being able to create and not just visualise va rious models and ideas.I put mentholated spirits in a container wash my models in it, when I see sludge forming at the bottom I just pour out whats ok and rinse out the rubbish on the bottom. I'm going to try that as well with the mentholated spirits, put the container in a curing bucket Ive made see how the resin solidify's it may make the cleaning process easier and more effective.

Good as any :) right up until i got my IPA, I was using various kinds of nail polish remover which were pretty effective :)

For the very very odd model that I don't paint or undercoat, I have dipped the model back into the resin hung it so it drip drys so to speak. No dipping into a cleaning solution of any sort. I have a UV bucket diy. I'll hang it in the bucket for curing , you will get an amazing transparent glove like finish on the model that shines. Resin is pretty forgiving and its not necessary to always wash it off depending if you have a way to cure and suspend your model. I've gotten some beautiful surface finishes on some chess pieces that I've made.

Nikola Pijanac i'll give that a go!

LOL... Joshua I maintain that there are still a ton of people out there that haven't checked to see if their build arm is crashing into the Vat. It's hardly noticeable, it was a major fault with the Anycubic Photon. If people would fix that or at least check to see if its right, no more Z wobble, no more model won't stick to build platform (cause it can't get close enough to where 0 should be). A lot more would be enjoying their Photon rather than whining about it. Check your photon people... It only takes a minute to check and about 10 minutes to fix.

Yeah, youtube

this video will show you how to split a model up. joe is using meshmixer to split a model apart so he can use the parts for multicolour printing but cutting up the model is the same https://youtu.be/2V-HiC0q24E

Windows 3D builder works great for this.

yes but you do get a more refined cut with meshmixer if that's what you need. :)

Nice Marauder.

What settings did you use? I just started on Grey and it seems really brittle ?

Kelly Brownlie the Maurader is .05 10second cook time
The car parts for Gaslands are .05 at 14seconds cook time.

The Maurader looks a little under exposed, but still has really good detail and nothing wonky other than a few peeling payers on the top cannon.
The Gaslands bits have really good detail for how small they are.

Hot Wheels car for scale... since that’s what the bits are for. ?

Awesome that’s I think I waaaaay over cooked at 14! Ugh ?

Very nice!

I've been looking to print a Marauder to match my favorite Battletech PC-game mech, the Marauder with UAC/20++ and Dual TTS+++ targetting computers. Looking good

It's either a leveling issue or not enough time on the Base layer. Relevel the build plate and increase Base exposure by 5 seconds and try again. Repeat until perfect prints.

Also if it’s your first time, the plate may not be down far enough when you set the Z, the paper needs to be more snug than you think...

Brendan Wood where can increase the base exposure?

John Valdes what program are you using to slice?

Anders Scot Hudson I will tried it again. Had it tight that paper was real tight

I have both chitubox and the anycubic one. I was using the anycubic one.

Well first of all I recommend not using the anycubic one. Then in Chitubox, on the right hand of the screen there is a button for Settings. In the middle of the Settings window, there is a Print tab. You can change the numbers in there and press the En ter key to save. If you haven't used Chitubox yet then the numbers might be a little low by default. That was my experience. When doing test prints to find your curing time you can increase the Exposure Time by 1 second and Bottom Exposure Time by 5 seconds to dial it in.

I like this town as my test piece to figure out a resin's times
https://ameralabs.com/blog/town-calibration-part/

Brendan Wood will try it. I read about sanding the bed plate.

John Valdes i've never done that so I can't recommend.

John Valdes beware of destructive hardware modifications. Only do that if 1) you have exhausted all other possibilities [including releveling dozens of times if necessary] and 2) have visually confirmed with a steel ruler and a light source that your build plate is not flat.

Yeah I did. Was a rounded name tag for a dog collar. All text was reversed (everything else was symmetrical) also in Tinkercad. I ended up redesigning it then it printed fine.

They want you to use a voltmeter to take some readings, you can find a youtube video showing you how to do this (of course you do need a voltmeter to do this).

You need a multimeter to measure across the points indicated in the picture, yellow is 25vdc is the black and white reading 12vdc is the red and red blue reading. Will need power on while doing so

Well ofcause, ill just jank out my thingimabob i natrually have laying around ?
Well thanks for the answers ?

Han vil have at du måler at der både er 12 og 25 volt de steder hvor han viser når den lyser op :)

Se lige her Steffen Andersen

Tiernan Messmer

Thanks for making the Validator even better...

Thank you for your great efforts Sol!

You are the most amazing person alive! At least until I find something else shiny. But seriously, this is awesome, thank you.

If you're updating the Validator, are you taking requests?

Because the ability to flick up and down between layers while in the zoom-in mode would be hella handy.

Christopher Fugate add your request to the GitHub, there are a small group of people who are currently improving the application.

Thank you! Good work

Great

Many thanks to all for the positive feedback. I've been busy printing for a couple of days now and so far every print has been successful.

As soon as I have implemented the gamma correction and cleaned up the code, I will make a pull request so that the changes are included in the main branch.

Sol Aris Any idea what would cause this, or more importantly how to fix this?

Robert Jeppesen You need a newer Java version. The program runs from version 11, the error message says that you have Java 8 installed.

Ok, thanks