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Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

原文網址 Ernest Sandridge Ill
2020-03-28 00:03:58

I'm just curious but what do people use to make their minis a little more accidental drop friendly?
I am using anycubic black, it's what came with my printer, and I have twice when painting my minis accidentally drop from like 10-15 inches height my minis and something always breaks on them.
I doubt it's my curing, I give them about 15-20 seconds all around cure time and they are good. It's just the drops.

Is there another resin I could get or something to blend in my resin to make them not so breaky breaky?

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Scott Pavlich
2020-03-28 00:09:52

Anycubic is terrible for brittleness. Try mixing in 20% Monocure flex, or use Siraya abs-like or Mix in 20-30% Siraya Tenacious for a model you can bounce off your driveway with no damage

Gary Pembleton
2020-03-28 00:13:25

Siraya Blu is great but more expensive than their normal resin. I have been mixing 50% Siraya Blu with 50% Siraya Tech Fast and having great results.

Tobi Altebaeumer
2020-03-28 00:15:57

Elegoo ABS-like is a good budget choice.

Jolene Sweeney
2020-03-28 00:29:17

Tobi Altebaeumer can you explain the difference between abs gray and normal gray?.... ? I can't seen to find a straight answer on google

Matt Reed
2020-03-28 00:33:13

i mix in a lil flex resin and keep winging it

Danny Gonzalez
2020-03-28 00:39:20

yeah all my ancubic brand minis break super easy. Go Siraya!

Ryan Smith
2020-03-28 00:40:32

I use anycubic eco resin. A 10 sec cure time. It's still has a bit of flexibility, never had one break.

Bill Keeter
2020-03-28 00:47:11

20% tenacious is what I’m using.

Tobi Altebaeumer
2020-03-28 02:29:35

Normal gray is brittle like Anycubic resins.
ABS-like is more flexible.

Wes Mischke
2020-03-28 03:30:19

75 elegoo standard grey/25 tenacious.


原文網址 Robert Small
2020-03-28 00:01:22

A peek behind the curtain! This is the catalyzing box where lights cure the resin.

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原文網址 Wojtek Gierszal
2020-03-27 23:53:15

Hello! I really, really need your help here.

Here's a nice collection of my latest print failures, all from one and the same print xD If you want to help, please read more :)

I have Anycubic Photon, the original, and I've had it for a few months now, 4 bottles of resin used with little to no problems. The bed is levelled, FEP makes a nice drum sound when poked and isn't broken, temperature is acceptable (~18 °C), resin is Elegoo Grey, settings worked for all this time perfectly, as well as supports, no file errors, or corruption detected. What's more, these models were printed before in similar configuration.

The failures have all been marked, but I can point them out individually.

1. The whole bottom-left area seems to not have stuck to the plate, and I can see individual layers not sticking to each other too.

2. At one point, one third of the plate just stopped printing for a while, which happened one print before in the same place at a different height. The other part was stuck to the FEP, but a big chunk was missing in between.

3. At the bottom layers, printing seems to have moved to the right a little, creating a weird warp.

4. There are 2 or 3 very visible layer lines on the cylinder, maybe some warping happened there too.

Similar failures also happened the last time I printed something, but I thought it was file corruption, so I printed again. Right now I don't want to print again until I know what went wrong.

Maybe you had those problems before, and know the reason? Please tell me what you think, and what I should do. Thank you for your help!

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Andy Turtle Consiglio
2020-03-27 23:55:56

Try wiping the build plate with acetone, that fixed that issue for me

Daniel Kelly
2020-03-28 00:15:52

I think your room temperature should really be a bit higher - around 23C-25C optimal. Could also be that the resin needs to be mixed better. I know I've had successful prints and then printed straight away afterwards and the next one has failed - my assumption for that failure is that the resin has settled in the VAT. next print, nothing else changes but I put the resin back in the bottle and shake it like crazy and the next print is perfect.

Wojtek Gierszal
2020-03-28 00:18:19

Thanks! But in my case I mixed the resin after the first one that failed, and printed this next.. plus this doesn't really explain why printer just stopped working on the same side and just didn't print a chunk of the miniature..

Wojtek Gierszal
2020-03-28 00:21:20

Also, do you think it might be a broken screen?


原文網址 Frank Rouge
2020-03-27 23:41:06

Turpentine in replacement of IPA? I can't find IPA

(I'm in Peru) Turpentine in replacement of IPA? I can't find IPA

(I'm in Peru) 翻譯年糕

Alex Crisp
2020-03-27 23:41:43

terps will probably destroy any detail within seconds

Frank Rouge
2020-03-27 23:42:49

what about if it used mixed with water? if not, what do you suggest? :)

Rory Kostman
2020-03-27 23:45:52

methanol?

Paul Willsher
2020-03-27 23:47:15

Methylated spirits will work well, It' s all I use.

Frank Rouge
2020-03-27 23:47:33

It's restricted

Rory Kostman
2020-03-27 23:49:01

Cleaners like "Mean green" or "Simple Green" are often suggested as alternatives for folks who live in places where it is difficult to get Isopropyl alcohol or Methylated spirits.

Mike Hamilton
2020-03-27 23:49:22

Got 5 litres being delivered by Amazon on Tuesday.

Frank Rouge
2020-03-27 23:52:00

Mike Hamilton is that Ethyl alcohol?

Mike Hamilton
2020-03-27 23:52:49

Frank Rouge Just normal meths as recommended on Anycubic S FB page earlier in the week

Paul Willsher
2020-03-27 23:54:49

Mike Hamilton is right, get it at local supermarket and so cheap, readily available.

Frank Rouge
2020-03-27 23:56:46

I don't know how is that named here in Peru :(

Matt Reed
2020-03-28 00:21:10

search IPA alternatives in the search menu. theres many approaches

Jeff Greenfield
2020-03-28 00:22:09

Frank Rouge We call it denatured alcohol in the US. It’s basically Ethyl with bittering agents to make it undrinkable. Also used as fuel for hot tables and such.

Steve Landers
2020-03-28 00:35:04

I use Simple Green and it does the job well, but it takes a lot of time rinsing to get the Simple Green off.

Rory Kostman
2020-03-28 01:41:06

Denatured Alcohol?

Jason Archuleta
2020-03-28 09:33:44

Try different household cleaners. Mr clean worked for me.

Valentin Simon
2020-03-28 23:01:29

Hey guys. I do not know about your specific techniques... In france IPA is quite costy, so i'm cleaning my parts with aceton. It works very well but you have to do it quite quick. Like shake for 5 seconds the print in aceton and then put it to dry in an UV box and the result is excellent.

Frank Rouge
2020-03-29 00:06:54

What about industrial Alcohol?


原文網址 Mackenzie Akred
2020-03-27 23:00:07

Hey guys,

More just curious from my experience so far, but in the recommended setting for Grey AnyCubic Resin for .02 Layer height, it has 10.5 for the Normal Exposure time.

Edit: Whoops, forgot to mention I have an Anycubic Photon S

I have printed in this, and notice "swelling" in some things, primarily supports, but a few other things as well (in the below image, the claw and left support is most obvious). This is causing the supports to get too close to the model and adhere, even though they are very clearly away from the model. I tested at 8 exposure, and got a better result, as far as normal sizing, but obviously getting a more, rubbery print that just needs to bask in the sun more.

The detail looks good on both, with very small details showing on both, but the higher exposure shows deeper cavities and sturdier details, which is awesome! It does though make my medium supports impossible to remove cleanly after print. I guess I want to figure out if there is a setting I am missing that is causing this issue? That or if I am reading the "Anycubic Photon Resin Settings" incorrectly.

I went ahead and attached a few of my local settings.
This is all settings I used for the latest print.

I also put up one of the prints, and the render of it in app. (Sorry for the unclean "Post-Process")

Sorry for the longish post, but feel free to ask questions for anything I may have missed.

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Niall Forrester
2020-03-27 23:18:24

Exposure times differ between the different Photon models (S needs significantly less time than original, for example), and probably a bit between individual printers due to variations in the UV source (manufacturing variation s, age etc.). If by "recommended settinG", you mean one you got from acommunity spreadsheet, these are a bit hit and miss at best

Mackenzie Akred
2020-03-27 23:23:44

Niall Forrester ,
That's good to know. Yes I have the Anycubic Photon S. I don't know why I always forget to mention that. (Probably because I think this is a Anycubic Facebook Group lol)
I was using the community spreadsheet as well, yes, but maybe one that was not for the "S" model.

Mackenzie Akred
2020-03-27 23:24:02

Niall Forrester ,
Thank you for bringing that all to light already.

Niall Forrester
2020-03-27 23:27:11

Mackenzie Akred Was just editing and updating my comment, but the editor closed.

I was mentioning that I am not convinced that 0.02 is really worth it, and would encourage you to do a side by side comparison at 0.05 (or maybe 0.04) and 0.02: my conclu sion was that exposure times for 0.02 were basically no lower than for 0.05 and the detail was not noticably better. Print times, however, are much higher

Most likely the sheet you saw was for the standard model, 10.5 sounds high for the S

Mackenzie Akred
2020-03-27 23:31:12

Niall Forrester ,
I notice some better details at .02, (I see layering at .05)but you are more than likely correct, I could at least go up to .03 or even .04.

Do you yourself have a Photon S? What would you recommend at say, .03?

Niall Forrester
2020-03-27 23:32:21

Mackenzie Akred I'm running an original, with different resin, so my settings are not much help. I went back to 0.05 in any case (printed at 0.02 for a while, but print times are soooo long)

Mackenzie Akred
2020-03-27 23:33:46

Niall Forrester ,
Well thank you so much for what was said so far. Much appreciated!

Niall Forrester
2020-03-27 23:34:20

And when I did a side-by-side comparison with my setup, I got best results at 9s for 0.05mm and at .... 8-9s with 0.02mm, so no reduction in exposure time

Niall Forrester
2020-03-27 23:35:45

Thinking about it, it might be worth running an exposure range test - even 8s might be highish for an S model (mostly guessing though)


原文網址 Conan Lloyd
2020-03-27 22:37:48

Hey John Driggers , you still up for helping me with the supports on the Knight?

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John Driggers
2020-03-27 22:39:40

For sure...


原文網址 Sylvain Jonett
2020-03-27 22:28:57

Any idea what to do with all the used supports ? I would like to use them instead of just thrashing them ?‍♀️

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Michael Joseph
2020-03-27 22:30:33

I accidently broke off a character's foot when I was removing supports, so I used a piece of support to make an impromptu pegleg. Luckily we were doing an airship battle, so it went along with the pirate them

Shaun Reno
2020-03-27 22:46:14

I’ve been thinking of making a spike pit.

Denlee Paddy Rhodes
2020-03-27 23:49:57

I've got an old smoothie maker that I crush em up in and use em as basing material, or concrete ish effect on buildings

Josh Berkley
2020-03-28 00:05:01

Denlee Paddy Rhodes
2020-03-28 00:05:59

Josh Berkley
2020-03-28 03:04:23

Denlee Paddy Rhodes great for terrain

Denlee Paddy Rhodes
2020-03-28 03:10:40

Josh Berkley PVA and acrylic smashed up with off cuts from plastic sprues, great for terrain!

Denlee Paddy Rhodes
2020-03-28 03:10:54

Ash Fielding
2020-03-28 04:55:30

Denlee Paddy Rhodes this is actually genius

Denlee Paddy Rhodes
2020-03-28 04:59:38

Ash Fielding lol it works, I'll put up some phots, when I've made some new terrain lol

Josh Berkley
2020-03-28 05:20:58

Denlee Paddy Rhodes makes me also want to save my spaghetti prints from my FDM and chop those up too

Denlee Paddy Rhodes
2020-03-28 05:23:28

Josh Berkley worth it mate

Josh Berkley
2020-03-28 06:11:08

Denlee Paddy Rhodes good thing my FDM has been on the fritz lately plenty of material ?

Denlee Paddy Rhodes
2020-03-28 06:24:44

Josh Berkley lol would probably make great razor/barbed wire lol


原文網址 Jason Turner
2020-03-27 22:27:49

Hey group! I was wondering if anyone uses Elegoo Resin, and if so, do you have any blue?

I ask because I'm running low on blue resin and can't get any until end of April, understandably so. If anyone has any full, near full bottles, I'd gladly pay along with shipping. Any help is appreciated.

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原文網址 Mathew Trabka
2020-03-27 22:26:20

Wish me luck guys, my first print ever at photon

祝我好運, 我在photon有史以來的第一張列印

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Piotr ZDymkiem
2020-03-27 22:55:31

Good luck ?

Kevin Boogaard
2020-03-28 01:27:30

Looks good!

Richard Crummett
2020-03-30 02:02:43

How’d turn out?

Caio Donini
2020-03-30 02:22:12

Uh It's the tricky first one! that grid doesn't make the popping sound, which you'll learn to love

Mathew Trabka
2020-03-30 05:24:33

Well this one didn't worked great in end, got some material sticking to bottom in place of bed, but i did manage to get my first successful print (different model)

Mathew Trabka
2020-03-30 05:24:42


原文網址 Rodrigo Castelo Branco Mello Mir
2020-03-27 21:47:20

Sauron's helmet, the same that somebody posted here last week. Gonna be a fun weathering project

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Rob Mayberry
2020-03-27 22:30:39

Rodrigo Castelo Branco Mello Mir
2020-03-27 22:32:50

That's amazing, did you print it?

Rob Mayberry
2020-03-27 22:40:10

Yes figured it was the same model

Rodrigo Castelo Branco Mello Mir
2020-03-27 22:44:35

I dont think it is, where did you get yours, if I may ask? Purchase links are fine too

Rob Mayberry
2020-03-27 23:08:34

It’s from the $$$special stls$$$ Facebook group

Ken Cunningham
2020-03-29 01:43:00

Looking good! :)


 

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