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Yes

That’s the theory....in reality unless you were to add very long off times the effect would be negligible. That setting is really there to match to your printers default so your slicer print time is accurate to what the printer does

Try 80 second exposure for first layers

Also up the Z height to like 3 I find it helps

30 sounds very low. And hollow the model. That helps a lot.

Raise the mini by 5mm. Rotate by 15 degree. A lot of heavy supports on the base, then some light ones for the overhangs parts. Should be a success.

60-80 seconds, 8-10 layers bottom. Then at least 7 sec for the next layers.

Raise bottom exposure.
Also, the Print will fail, to much Islands

see i get an issue with supportless then as it tries to add supports to the base of the model. But it needs little to no support?

its a supportless model, on my fdm it prints great (exceot the cloak where i added a few supports (just a bit droopy) if i rotate it wont i ruin the designers efforts to make it support free?

its supportless (on the ender 3 at least) is the supportless design only feasible on fdms and doesnt transfer to resin as easily?

Yes, but you are printing resin not fdm. Resin printing is a entirely different ruleset.

Supportless might still very well apply but that doesn't change suction rules.
I'd like the check the module for supports necessary but it seems to be a paid model?
(Atleast the quality tlels me) So I can't do that for you.

What exactly are the suction rules? how do i tell if a model is supportless on resin? Or is it basically impossible to tell and ill need to screen each model individually?

Ethan Zachary totally depends on the bridging capabilities of your printer. I don't know about ender3 but photon's are... not that great.

Jeff Savoie i changed to this and i got a different model, does this look like it might work now?

Mourni Tenchou Yeaaaa its paid, i'd offer to send it to you but :/ i don't want to kill the wonderful modeller community that's starting up. I love the prices. I can link if you want though, was 3 skeletons for 4 bucks?

You cna link it. Maybe I own it already.

If you have discord I can quickly show you my workflow

Mourni Tenchou https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-1-elite......
Nah don't have discord sadly

well i do but my mic and camera have pooped it

Neat models.

Hmm I mean you don't need to talk. I cna quickly show you a rundown of how to support minis.

MagicMourni#5641

I'll simply stream my screen and show how I'd support a similar mini.

I need to work on some now anyways.

I sent it now

I've printed a couple of these in different sizes. It's supportless, so just print it on the plate. You're adding unnecessary complexity by trying to add supports and rotating.

Im just here to ask where you got the stl.... that's amazing

https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-1-elite......

Ethan Zachary thanks

Looks good to me. I like the high bottom exposure, doesn't hurt anything or take too much time, but it makes sure your model adheres to the plate.

Looks same as i have except for bottom time and layer thickness. I use 30 sec for 3 layers and 0.05mm height. Below example. The room is quite warm, maybe 26 C.

what software is this?

Bruno Shepard Photon Workshop

I'm more concerned that you're paying $100 for 250 ml of resin...

James Richmond that's by default

Dan Andersson are those Chitubox supports?

Andy Johnny Young No. I use Prusa slicer.

10 bottom layers gives more strength to the base of the supports without adding much time and with anycubic, even clear I never go below 12, it's a bit prone to failures at lower exposure.

one for normal resin, one for water washable resin...

I'd love to see some side by side comparisons between that and the Photon, interested to see what benifits the Phrozen LCD has in practice.

more speed a little more than double... i have 2 photons and 2 minis... they are beasts

always good to have more.. like when you want to print now and you have too change the fep...

Yea they told me they were replacing all new machines with metal... I'd love to buy one off you since I can't find one

That's nice to know they didn't offer jack shit to those of us who have one with a plastic vat.

Sure i can sell one to ya

Dane Bennett we also paid less... And they offered me a discount on a metal one, but they're never in fucking stock

Cody Cody they didn't offer me jack. I haven't even used my mini because my vat is full of stress cracks around the fep screws. I never had a leak and I'm not about to take my chances. I'll also say that a discount code is useless for something that's nearly unobtainable. I don't have hours a day to watch Amazon.

I will be showing a comparison picture of the same model for both machines :)

Love my sonic mini as much as my photon. The short exposure times are great!

That being said, I can’t use the mini right now because my plastic vat is cracked and leaking.

I have been having a hell of a time trying to level the stupid thing. Every time I tighten the screws on the plate, it lifts and is no longer tight against the screen. Getting real frustrated. Tried about 100000 times even had my husband push down on the plate while I scew and it still moved.

I had my Mini up and going with a plastic vat for a couple weeks, then I managed to snag a metal vat when they went on sale on Amazon, and even got a discount from Phrozen. Worked great for a week, then my LCD crapped out. Contacted the company and the y were great about it. Diagnosed the issue right away and are Fedexing me a new screen, which should be here tomorrow. I love this machine, even with it's teething problems. I have been back to using my Photon S and it's SOOOOOOOOOOO SLOOOOOOOOOWWWW compared to the Mini!

I had this same problem but I finally got it after messing with it for about 30 mins

Ya that little sonic mini prints its ass off

Buhuu how sad... Not! Why should they offer something for free to you?? You knew what you bought back then. You could have waited for a version with metal vat but you didnt.

Totally pointless to cry like a little boy for something like this.

Dan Andersson keep going. You're getting tougher. Flex that keyboard! Make it work for you!

Its an easy fix, just just make sure you haven't over tightened and stripped the thread. Its slipping on a polished surface, two things you can do just rough up the shinny pieces with sandpaper which should eliminate slippage. The second if you have ha ndy some spring washers should also do the trick and give you a little more tension against slippage. Be careful not to over tighten and strip the threads. A third thing you can try is wrap a little teflon tape around the nuts for extra traction.

Extra vats are super useful!

Extra vat could be very useful...change resin without cleaning the vat....in the middle of a print ? ? ? !!!!, emergency change for Fep issues...

Just be careful with the Phrozen Sonic Mini. In addition to the issues they were having with the plastic vats, the black plastic enclosure is also prone to cracking, especially if a drop of resin inadvertently comes into contact with the plastic.

No :( Clear off and start again. Consider getting a UPS of some kind if you have power issues in your home.

depending n the model and where it stopped, you can print the remaining and join the two pieces. you would have to adjust the stl and reslice.

Dean Guinn you'd need to know the near exact slice it was cut off at ? Either that or get a sander ready ?

someone in this group posted results of doing just this so believe what you want.
didn't say it was fool proof i said it depends on certain factors. but it can be done.

Nope. Just clean your plate, curse the vagaries of the fickle power gods, and start over.

What program are you using?

Pete Kastner chitubox

Charles Kellner go into settings and add a new printer

Are you saving it or using the slice button

Slice

You may have some z wobble, but I'm not seeing it. Z wobs are like 2mm corrugations. They're typically even. What I'm seeing are layer shifts and separations.

I'd try a different resin. Not sure what to recommend as what I do is quite different.

The printer sits on a hard surface and the feet are quite solid. Every up and down motion induces vibrations which the cant machine absorb totally. I put a thin mouse mate 3mm with semi squishy foam under the feet and it improved the layer lines a fair bit

Thanks both for your thoughts. Richard I'm using anycubic resin. I always have and this just started happening. Christopher I'll give that a try. That's a good thought. To be clear. I'm not worried about the general, consistant layer lines. At this scale I expect to see some lines. But, the deformed and squished parts are what I'm worried about. Its not consistant in that it doesn't happen over the whole print. You can see on the Doors its only the bottom corners then it basically cleans up and smooths out

Looks like not nearly enough supports. Check to see if the lines match where the supports are.Tall pieces often need supports on the sides as well to keep them stable. I never print barrels at an angle like that - I do flat, 45 or 90. Lots of supports, too. Barrels are really easy to sand off the support nubs.

I might agree with you Jeff but, the distortions are in the same spot on different models with different supports. I'm actually wondering if Christopher was correct about vibrations. But, the vibrations being cause from maybe lack of lubrication on the z-axis threads. So its grinding in the same spot each time.

Look at the slices where the distortions occurred and see if there are sudden changes in FEP contact area. The prints can distort if the FEP is suddenly being pulled in a different direction by another model.

is the bunker made of concrete or what have you done to make it look concretey?

I'd go with Jeff Johnson's suggestion of not enough supports. You need enough supports to stop the model from moving minutely when it releases from the FEP. The more surface area the more it'll move too.

Glen Coco Öhman Glen, its basically a dark grey basecoat and then a few shades of oflighter grey drybrushed on top. With a couple washes applied. Then a very light drybrush of a light dirt/dust.

Glen Coco Öhman the bunker itself is cut from insulation foam.

wait, so is it not made of clay or at least foam core or insulation?

Great paint job still!

Glen Coco Öhman Thank you sir

basically z wobble are causing layer shift...

Not the same thing.

Try a slightly higher exposure, underexposure seems popular, but it also looses details and causes failures. I would boost that all the way up to 12s exposure, then dial it down if you don't like the look.

More supports or heavier supports.

Use exposure Test Tool to find optimal exposure

I use 11s normal, 90s bottom and 8 bottom layers für elegoo Grey

I would say definitely more bottom layers. I think from memory I also use 8 bottom layers.

Looks like your supports failed. I also agree that you should have some extra bottom layers and maybe slightly higher exposure time.

Increase support contact depth

100% if inventor scales things properly.

And your children will love you for it!

Charles Davenport I hope so lol

I think you'll have better results either printing those flat without supports, or tips toward the build plate with supports along the tips.

Great game!

ill give that a shot on the next set of wedges lol

Perfect!

Nice

That's awesome