Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

You'll need to drain it. Otherwise it will split and leak.

Dane Bennett ok..so a small drill bit in the cranium it is

Drill.

Yeah, one day a while from now you will find a puddle of toxic resin where you dont want it hehe

If you don’t drain it, it’s very likely to split the figure over time with a huge crack.

Jason Smith you'll need to drill 2 holes actually. One to let resin out and the other to let air in and vice versa for when you wash it.

Trepanation time.

Dane Bennett ok. Thanks

It'll blow up

Remember to put the hole on the plate side of the print, not the vat side

You need more than one hole I think when you print.

“The” hole? You only had 1?

Well I had prusa do the auto holes...I thought

Make the holes as big as possible to get a nice flow of resin. I usually try to do 5 mm diameter holes. Works good and you can insert an uv led in the hole to cure the inside of the model.

I usually will drill 2 small holes and then use a can of air in one end and blow it out the other hole

Sean Smith one hole will do. A second hole just makes cleaning inside in post easier. With some models it's impossible to place a useful second hole without ruining the model

James Swan blow it out the other hole ? ? ? ?


? Couldn't help myself

Oksana Shevchenko just depends where you drill the holes.

Nipuna Gunarathne This really depends on the resin and orientation. If there is no way for the air to rush in it won't drain - similarly to plucking a straw with your finger after it's filled with water.

Mi Ha yeah it'll be problematic if you only put one small hole

It will not be ok

The inside resin will seep thru. The model will also develop cracks

Doesn't the resin flow down towards the vat?

Nipuna Gunarathne yeah one hole is always a risk. The lack of a hike also puts extra stress on the FEP when the print pulls away from the FEP. It can put a simple on the FEP if the area is narrow enough.

Allison Janssens yup! But the side on the vat is inherently open while printing a hollow section anyway, and the resin can't drain unless air can get in at the top to let the resin drain from the bottom.

Allison Janssens

Stefan Giudici Woooow thank you so much for your explanation and example, I'll make sure to apply this new knowledge now thanks again!

No problem! Everybody gets that backwards in the beginning. That's why I prefer the term vent hole to drain hole

Drain it.

Stefan Giudici i always thought you were supposed to but 2 holes?

Is that...?

Depends on the print and what you can hide on the bottom. Some people advocate for a hole on each end but that was never the conventional wisdom and I don't see the point, I put all my holes on the vat side and get great results, if I have room for a big hole I'll do that, or if I need a few small holes instead (especially where the hollow geometry creates separate sections that'll build pressure, I'll do that too.

Shawn Barnes it's not, but now I want one. Lol it's a chibi Eleven

Jason Smith aw

Drill and drain. The resin expands as it cures, and that much in there will crack that thing open like an egg if you don't.

Drill it

How the hell does this even happen to this degree? To me it seems logically impossible to have that much resin trapped in it. Like if you printed it standing up, you’d have to have over an inch deep of resin on the last horizontal it cure that closes the gap to have even half that amount.

These posts are boggling my mind!! Lol

Upgrade your firmware

Make sure both your photon and your chitubox have the latest firmware updates and it should recognize the files

Also change the printer from default to the anycubic.

Side question I changed the dimensions of the printer to match the photon but my yoda test print, whilst looking fine on app, came out rather weird and warped. I assume I have the x y z settings wrong. The application sets them up bizzarley as well can anyone confirm the x y z setting needed in chitubox for the photon

Wayne Mitchell how do I update the printer?

Just open the file in photon workshop and resave it as pws, problem solved

What photon printer are you using? I am using the photon zero and I have to use Chitubox for all my supports and then save as STL then open in photon workshop to slice it into a .pw0 file because Chitubox doesn’t currently support the zero yet that I am aware.

Marcel Hansen tried it did not work.

Chris Peck I have the anycubic photon

John Valdes there are some YouTube videos online, pretty simple though. Go to anycubic website and find your printer. At the bottom of the page there are firmware updates. Load the latest version on your thumb drive and move it to the printer. Find that file and select it to print. That should start the update

Thoughts?

Have you adjusted the support parameters? Perhaps the support does not have enough penetration? I had similar problems and went to heavy supports with minimal penetration. As you add supports, you can actually see if and where the support protrudes through the part. You can then edit that depth to gain max support without affecting the finish of the part. If you are unsure how to do this, PM me and send screen shots showing the process. Until then, Good Luck!

Charles strange part is that it worked okay the months prior. No changing factors. LCD seems fine too based on the exposure check

Victor Leznik Oh, Victor! I know what you mean! I have too little hair remaining to pull out over the unreliability of my Photon! I am seriously considering purchasing a different machine. One day my Photon prints fine, the next day, same print...a nd the machine laughs at me! And, I understand the time wasted in testing the same print time after time. Nevertheless, you might try giving those affected supports the "Heavy" treatment. I can't think of anything else in my limited experience. The same exact thing just happened to me. Oh, yes, consider adding more supports than needed. I've done that to good effect. It results in more post-print work, but at least you have a print! Good luck!

Charles - I’ll give it a go! I’ve since updated the software to 4.2.18 with AA and thickened supports. Let’s see what happens! Hoping that dual rails and easy leveling will resolve unreliability as well

Elegoo Grey resin nothing too crazy here right?

Heavy and medium supports... Plenty of them, no islands, 100% clean on Vaildator

I would put lots of light supports around the coin outer edges. Round parts becomes oval when they are printed in air without support.

Another possibility is to print them straight on the bed.

Just print flat on the base ngl

I print them straight vertical

No problems here...

that's pretty bad ass, what is your preferred method?

Anders Scot Hudson flat on bed using the photon slicer..

Do you tweak your base layer settings to prevent expansion from overexposure?

Anders Scot Hudson no, and they do get a small lip on them that I just sand off...

Double check the dimensions for your printer are correct. The z would be something like 150mm not 155mm. There's a wrong set of dimensions floating about online which causes print warping.

Simple green

seen some dentist guy using pledge spray, idk

Mean Green

dentaured alcohol, ethanol, methylated spirits

any specific simple green? there's the normal simple green, and the extreme simple green

Any cubic recommends ethanol. Denatured alcohol is ethanol with small amounts of methanol and sometimes acetone.

Hmm, trying to look for ethanol on amazon

I use this for cleaning my build plate and my FEP both, and the scraper as well. It's cheap, and it works great.

I think I saw this on a youtube video!

Joe Papa Behre Behrend That's where I got the idea. I was skeptical, but it really works and does a very effective job. Plus, it's available everywhere I used to shop, and will eventually shop again.

There’s also this stuff called resinaway by monocure I dunno how good it is yet but I got a jug on order

Methanol aka wood alcohol aka methylated spirits aka Methyl hydrate aka fuel anti-freeze aka air brakes anti-freeze.
Under 10$/gallon and it works just as good as IPA.

I like the search bar, seeing as everyone is dealing with this problem. You’ll find a lot of sources

Matt Reed good for you, but i like communicating with people. Power to your searches

Jade Mckay I’ve read about that too

Jason Willis i saw that, was going to give it some tine

Joe Papa Behre Behrend I think it'd benefit when it comes to suction forces more than cleaning. Might get a few more miles out of the FEP

Jason Willis that is true, i think I’ll give it a shot in a little bit. I’m printing some prototypes for someone, so i don’t want to experience it now and screw something up ? ?

Joe Papa Behre Behrend I know that feeling! I'm on my last fep sheet and don't want to experiment with a new resin for the same reason!

Add a couple of seconds onto the base later

I think it needs more exposure

I use 90 sec for my base layers

Increase curing or exposure time for base

Might wanna increase the base layers as well.

My base layer exposure is set to 100, with 8 layers, I'm thinking by looking at how it separates i maybe need to add more layers

Temperature maybe?

a little help please I hear bottom, base layers, looking at the picture

would that be bottom exposure?

Exposure level, stl file, plate, resin, you’re not providing enough information

These are the settings I'm using, and I'm using elegoo grey resin

I would double check that you are still level and you cleaned your base plate.

This looks about like what I'm using, I would say room temperature might be a factor. I have had similar happen when it's cold.

Nathaniel Cooper normal resin or water washable?

I believe just normal resin, its Elegoo Grey

cold resin could cause that peeling

ive notice this happen to me when the resin is about 20-22 if i get it abou8t 24-26 its all good also the leveling is very important

Looks stuck to the base.. maybe the fap? Or something

Yeah it is but the rest of the model gets printed onto the FEP and not sticking to the rest that's just the raft

You might need thicker supports

Andy Turtle Consiglio This is what I have for my Heavy that I used

How many supports did you uses?

Maybe your exposure time is to low and the supports are not strong enough?

Pete Kastner Here is the picture of the supports sorry for bad render

What are your slicer settings?

Andy Turtle Consiglio I posted it under Pete's comment

Andy Turtle Consiglio

Sorry about that. These are my print settings on anycubic green resin

Domenick Brizuela try my settings ?

I'm using elegoo grey the weird thing is I printed this before and had no error

I'll try yours tho

Domenick Brizuela hmmm be careful, I use a different resin from you. Let me know how it goes! I'm going to buy the elegoo grey

Andy Turtle Consiglio I'll just mess with it a little more and it's very good with great detail!

It looks like it!

It’s all on any anycubics site, slicer, test file, firmware update.

Like Jeff said. But I think sample print is in product page. All other files in download/ support page

Jeff Greenfield thank you

Anycubic Mars?

That's awesome

Thanks Josh , I fixed it. One shouldn’t post while imbibing adult beverages.

What ended up being the final verdict on supports?

Conan Lloyd lol didn't want to be nit picky more was just hoping for a collaboration..

No worries Josh , I thought it was funny that I unconsciously combined the 2.

Jury is still out. The one you did got to about 75% and failed at the top. This one was one I did using the photon software and put a bunch of medium supports on it. When I get a fully clean one I'll let you know how it got supported.

Conan Lloyd it had a nice ring to it if it makes you feel better

Conan Lloyd good to know.

I’m testing settings for water washable resin now.. so I’ll be trying all sorts of new supports

Please share your settings! I can't get that kind of detail!

Yamamoto Tifa 6 bottom layers @60 sec. Normal exposure:13 sec.