Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Octoprint

Octolapse (works with Octoprint)

But can I use that with Anycubic Photon?

I bought these and they work perfectly

https://smile.amazon.com/....../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search......

You can use any usb drive, as long as it's formatted correctly to the printer's specs (fat32 I believe)

I've used these on FDM printers and even though they work they get very hot.

Buy a couple of short USB extension cable plugged into the photon would be a good Idea. This way, the USB connector on the Photon stays Pristine and when the cable connector wears out from use , you can plug in the spare cable and continue on. Just a thought.

Thank y’all for the insight and suggestion!

That's one super booger.

David Porter has to be cut with kryptonite snips

He’s got a little Corona leaking from his nose.

Just did this with my Sonic mini... So much fun

Leave the support coming out of the nose that's great

George Aguilar Jr nice print, where did you get the STL? Also which Photon printer do you own?

Please post your finished painted busts.

One of the things I’ve been considering doing once I get mine is super hero statues. Silver surfer is gonna be awesome.

Get this man a tissue

Please wash your hands before AND after touching this model. Ew.

# COVID19Protocols

You can save a lot of material printing in angle, less supports and cleaning results, for me works perfect anycubic skint 0.03 layer at 6s, bottom 9 at 70s, don't forget hollow it and add vent holes (y)

Kevin Piatz got it off Thingiverse (dun dun duuuun). I know it's not the best database for .stl but I get a ton of good builds off it. I have the baseline Photon. Best purchase I made before this whole thing (finally have time to play around with it)

Thanks man, I appreciate the info.

If you play around with it, you can get your supports to stay on the plate instead of the model.

I would have made it so the bottom of the nose support didn’t land on the model but went all the way to the plate. Leave a cleaner model.

Ryan Lange it all came off nice. I have a ton of of practice doing GW minis

Super man has a super booger!

I love those color 3d printers for things like comics and cartoon pieces.

I really should learn how to use mine. It just sits there staring at me

Might be difficult to remove that - it'll be a booger of steel...

I dont believe you can make it much better than that...

Print it standing, tilting, any direction but flat..

Were those printed using different resin? I've read numerous times before that exposure times and other settings should be adjusted when switching between resin of different colors and brand.

Yes, different resins require different settings

Sander van Deijl good to know for sure, I'm running out of the complimentary clear green and will be switching to grey soon

Garrett Chapman opaque resins and translucent resins require totally different exposure times. Keep that in mind ?

Sander van Deijl I'm running the clear green at 0.04mm with 60 seconds on the bottom layers, and then 8 seconds per layer afterwards. I should probably bump the 8 up to a 10 for the grey shouldn't I? I've seen some numbers as high as 90 for the bottom layers.

Garrett Chapman do you own the photon or the photon S?

Sander van Deijl the Photon S

Garrett Chapman oohh..... then you should go down in exposure setting. Opaque grey needs 6s at 0.05. You might even be overexposing the green.
I don’t know if you’re familiar with the exposure sheet? Only use those setting as a starting point for the exposure test to fi nd your ideal settings.

Exposure sheet for the S:

https://docs.google.com/....../1vQsW9y5gJKTmv....../htmlview

Resin exposure test:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3973475

have to be able to get better than the ones laying flat hopefully

different resins but same result on either

Garrett Chapman s

Jimmy Clark yes ofc, but not by laying it flat.. lol.. it will be mushed out due to the first layers needs more exposure..

aww that kinda sucks

what about doing the print up and down as mentioned but directly on the build plate no supports?

Lens cleaning wipes!

For the fep, for the parts I'm using simple green

Purplr meths

i got siple green and bought some resinaway recently though be aware if you get 5 liters, i only got 4.75 liters and for the price 250 ml loss is around an 8 dollar loss in price vs product. beyond that i haven't used it yet as i just got it today

I tryed Simple Green but after one day soaking in it...the parts are still sticky eved arter a day under the lights.

simple green if you have a sonic cleaner. ive completely replaced ipa and havent been using it even before the shortage. same process. have a dirty wash, a clean wash, then use a sonic cleaner. scrub it with a toothbrush after the first cleaning, run it again. i then rinse the print off and cure it in water. no tacky feeling and no white residue.

Evan Boone no lights?

Robert Small well, you still use uv lights, i just use a see-through container with water inside to cure prints.

Evan Boone oh

Make sure all screws are about equally tight.. i just tension mine to a "good thumb tight", with my thumb placed at the end of the short-end of the allen key.. then it usually feels like if i gave it one more turn, the fep would rip.. it doesnt, it just feels like it..

You might want to tighten them, several times in a row.. when youre done with the last screw, the first screw is usually loose again.. keep tightening, till theyre all the same...

275htz to 350htz

everyone will insist you tune it to a certain frequency. ive always just tightened it all the way down a bit at a time. i tighten opposite ends one or two turns at a time. never broken a fep by over tightening. as long as you do things right, you should have no issues.

Use heavy supports and increase the penetration depth of the contact point

May also want to increase both the bottom exposure and normal layer exposure time a smidge.

Use PrusaSlicer for placing Supports, Export and slice in Chitubox

Judging from the picture, you're dealing with a large surface area per layer, which sticks very hard to the fep. Your usual settings probably won't work then which cause the supports to not be strong enough to combat suction.

Had a similar problem the last couple of days, today i'm printing it with my exposure upped and it's going fine onwards from the point where it usually failed.

So yeah, as others have said, sturdier supports or up your exposure.

Mine was a presupported model, which i honestly expect to be supported well enough if sold like that, so I figured the only route to take was the exposure.

dat bed is a bit scratched innit