Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Cure both sides equally, the resin shrinks a little bit as it cures. A rotating platform or mirror help.

Jason Pedersen I use a rotating jewellery stand under a plastic plant pot lined with 5m of UV leds. A couple of minutes number that and the cutting is done, and lightly suntanned lol

Michael Alexander Caddick easy setup, it sounds. Been toying with building something so I'm less reliant on the AZ sun, for consistencies sake.

You could also try curing in water, I find it speeds up the process and helps with a whole variety of things.

Cure it in water...it’s the way of ensuring a good even cure and prevents warping

place the thin object on a bit of glass. place another, heavier object on your print to keep it flat. aim a uv lamp up from under the glass. flip it after the one side is done curing and repeat for the other.

Cure it on the plate

when I have that problem I put the item into the sink and then add hand hot water for a few moments. I can then drain the water and push the warped item onto the flat bottom of the sink as the hot water makes the print more malleable.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I have an idea at least what to try.

so i paint miniatures as context, first thing it looks like your using citadel contrast, you need a primer for them, i suggest going with army painter or ak interactive (best one is their airbrush primer, grab an iwata neo gravity feed airbrush from ho bby lobby and an air brush compressor from harbour freight) get a white base coat as thats what it is desgined for. for her blue zero suit i would prime that part black then do a paint called stormhost silver, a super bright silver. take either calth blue candy or talssar blue and apply that thinned out in layers, until the right look is achieved. an airbrush helps a lot with this. for her outer armor i would do another layer of stormhost silver and then try an orange contrast paint. her blaster would just leave gunmetal. and add some detailing in the recesses with clath blue. her hair i would prime white then do wither seraphim sepia or a yellow contrast paint with highlights. her skin is tricky. for a kinda fair skin i would do a thinned out layer of reikland fleshshade and highlight with a fair skin tone like pallid wytch flesh

An air brush isn’t necessary, although I love mine.

Are all of you paints contrast? If you have normal paint, and all of the primary colors (Red, Yellow, Blue) as well as a black and white for brightness, then you can get any color you want with mixin g. Then you can finish the model without needing to break isolation.

You could probably mix contrast paint too, but I’m not very experienced with it. I have two pots of it, but it was just because I wanted to try it.

Look up a color wheel with help mixing paints. A quick tip, gradually add new colors. Mixing too many pigments will quickly become brown.

I have all the contrast paints and they mix very well! I'll even water down and add normal dropper paint if I need to.

Pretty much. I have basic wraithbone paint and brown paint but everything else is contrast

Also thank you for the , input!

There were auto-refillers designs a couple of times here in group

Oleksandr Panforov I'll ha e to go looking for that

Nice!

Never had this issue. Used 10l of it

Looks like light bleed

Dave Smith is there any solution to that?

Martin Martinez tends to be a indicator that your screen is going out

ı thınk bed level problem

Relevel

Increase the Base exposure time in whatever program you are using to slice. It could be that the bottom layers aren't sticking to the build plate enough.

nah, these are building up on non print areas.Starts printing fine and builds up, seems light is bleeding out

Gotcha. Looks just like a pancake from a much more common problem. Gotta say what's wrong even with a picture lol

level

Is that left behind but you are still getting a print? Most likely your screen is dying

Scott Pavlich yea getting left behind and still getting a print (crap print). Seems like yes, screen about to go

Martin Martinez Yep....it’s not a leveling issue that’s for sure. Every time one of my photons has that problem I know it’s time to replace the screen

By no means a pro, but coming from blender I found sculptris EXTREMELY easy to use. It’s likely somewhat lacking in advanced functions for pro users though

For very easy cura 14.7 and for better experience cura 4.4

Fusion360 for hard surfaces

3D Builder. It was designed for 3D printing.

Sculptris is great for organic forms and is more powerful than you'd think for how simple it feels and looks. I used it for a long time before eventually getting zbrush

Tbh, blender is super frustrating - until you know some shortcuts. Then it’s actually quite good. Though also depends what you want to do...

I have no experience at all outside of 2d photoshop, and even that is like basic novice level.

Should I throw my head against the wall and learn blender or throw my head against a different software wall?

I'd like to sculpt minis, alternate versions of existing sculpts to being with.

Simple modelling can be done with SketchUp

I use 3ds max, but I can get it because of my work for a private consumer it's too expensive

If price was no object, I would get SolidWorks in a heart beat. I have over 10 years experience with it between school and jobs. For some reason, Blender's operations are the opposite of intuitive for me.

Sketchup, you can see the dimensions.

Modify your hot keys to be non frustrating. When you are saying frustrating what are you relating that to ?

As a modeller who is proficient with Maya Max Houdini Zbrush 3d coat silo, Blender does a really solid job.

We're currently working on creating models for dice. Blender's method for adding numbers is very non-intuitive and lengthy. It also seems very prone to errors depending on the font we use.

Blender is what they refer to as an "expert friendly" software package. For a free product it is surprisingly powerful, but has a steep learning curve because they have done little to make it easier to us.

There are two types of modeling, mechanical a nd organic surface. Programs like SolidWorks, Fusion 360 and Autocad excel at this type of modeling. Organic modeling is easier with 3DS Max, Blender or Zbrush. The reason for this is that mechanical models are mostly done as a Solid Models and organics are sculpted from a Mesh (a surface composed of polygons).

One modeling package that does both fairly well, but not spectacular in either, is Rhino 3D. It also has the advantage of lower cost and a very attractive Student license (both price and terms).

Jared Rushton yes the font to mesh can be finicky, if you add a bevel after to tidy the edges and run a clean up and merge verts on any stragglers you should end up with a tidy mesh to bool from the dice surface.

try tinkercad.com ( primatives & booleans) if blender is too hard. Zbrush is a simpler option as well. I personally like blender and 3D Studio Max.

I do use Tinkercad but I find it very limiting with its inability to do things like complex, organic, curves like boat hulls etc.

From what I learned so far with Blender, you definitely need to follow some tutorial on YouTube.

Kind of a Longshot, but I have been using Gravity Sketch on my Oculus VR. Also just found out about a free organic modeling PC software called Mudbox from Autodesk. It looks promising. In the end, 3D builder has been able to make anything I sculpt solid and printable.

I suppose depends what you are trying to model, i use z brush for pretty much everything now including game and prints

Did I mention, it's free with Windows 10.

What kind of modeling? Different tools for different things...

Change blender to Industry compatible in the Preferences and its a whole lot more intuitive.

Stick to Blender, there is a hefty learning curve, but it is a commercial grade program available for free. You will learn modeling, but you will be able to do animation too.

Jared Rushton try using the 3D package that comes with windows, is it 3D. Now, for adding fonts and things it’s great, one thing I think many 3 d modellers do is use different programs for different jobs it’s free as is mesh mixer that can also solve many problems

Try meshmixer for more of an introductory easier to approach one. You will probably want it for cutting up larger models anyways.

I can’t recommend Onshape highly enough. Made by former Solidworks employees. Really nice, browser based, and free as long as you don’t mind your models being public.

Fusion 360 is more CAD oriented, but is free for personal use and has solids functions that should make this pretty straightforward. Lots of tutorials on the internet for it and it outputs STL.

They make a resin slicer?

They use 1 slicer for their FDM and resin machine.

Well all I can tell you is not to auto support! And then you may be able to change the contact size and depth.

Whack the density up to 200%

I understand what are you saying. But I want know why some people can print perfectly with only PrusaSlicer's auto orientation and auto support lol

still the same ?

Chitubox auto support gave me this

Sometimes I add the following steps...
Export from Prusa with supports
Import into Chitubox
Go into the supports tab
Set to raise the model 0mm
Set the density low
Generate extra supports in Chitubox

Basically, double up, but keep Prusa's orientation and stuff, because that seems pretty reliable

Reggie Grahita Adhyatmaka Djatnika Thanks

What do you do about the raft?

this would fail. the lowest supports are to small. in the support section top right corner Z-height lift or something like that default is 5 set it to 7 or 8 then redo the supports.

same with the prusa slicer you need to raise the model of the bed more so it can form the minimum support length.

Reggie Grahita Adhyatmaka Djatnika I usually leave it. I like the little angled lip it gives... makes it easier to remove the print

Just finished printing. Just as you said, the bottom section was failed

How do I raise the model in prusa? Everytime I tried to move it to z axis, it return the the plate

EDIT: Never mind, found it

what was it. as i cant remember and i am sure me and others would like to know :)

Cannot fully see the part but something like that would surely print straight off build plate

In print settings, you go to support section and turn off the "pad around object" to be able to edit the object elevation below it.

The part is like this

Hi
Which stl is it I want to make one for my oldest

Keith Douglas Ahlstrom https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4038181

Please please please tilt it. The very bottom of the base is uneven and my first attempt failed because of that

I made this for my mom, your's looks great! I wish I had thought of doing that thing with the eyes.

Thanks

Mika Gruszka thanks

William Tatum I used a white gel pen for the shines on the eyes. XD it's my go to for adding shinies and it turns out it works on craft paint

The light could be failing. It's a consumable part and will start to go bad after a while of use.