Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Nice! I bet that was a pretty penny

Gabriel Silva ? ? ? ? ? ?

Did you get a discount for bulk? Have you noticed and performance issues with large volume?

Wesley M de Queiroz pois é

Mas eu tô me virando aqui

Where did you find such larger container. & Do they have any ABS?

It's a 1kg bottle and it appears that they only make resins for casting metals .
https://resinworks3d.com/product/ccw-easycast-hd-violet/

1kg = 1,000 ml ?
What will you be casting ?

No such thing as ABS resin. ABS is a thermoplastic.

Robert Silvers OK ABS like https://www.amazon.com/....../dp/B07WFJ53LP/ref=sr_1_2......

Robert Small that is my favorite resin in white right now.

Robert Silvers I think I bought the last 2 bottles.

I got a few myself:

Casting lots of jewelry

Man I wish.

And all this will have to "chew" that little Photon?

Wow ?

Robert , what resin do you use and where do you get it?

Kevin Boogaard the resin that Robert showed. I was replying to his comment.

Kevin Boogaard if you go look it up on eBay it says that it's abs like so while it may not be directly abs it is incredibly strong I do have to attest to that.

How well does this stuff perform ? Tricky getting the right settings? And whats the burnout ?

price ? looks like rebranded anycubic resin

Johnny Johnsen it was $19.99

AC price :) id say it looks like AC resin..

probably prints like it too

isnt the picture identical to AC, except the name?

3dprinteruniverse.com ships all resins same business day. Sale going on right now 30% off resins with code RESIN30.

Derek Mears that Darth maul just looks like piccolo to me haha

Piccomaul ?

That would make a great comic!

Ohhhh that inner pain he would have to go through.... ? from a sith lord to a piccolo.. whu! ? lifes tough... ?

dont print anything with thin parts if you want it to last through regular handling. green is SO brittle you break a sword or antler by looking at it wrong.

Benny Lu wow the resin at this place is super expensive. 3x500ml for $130...

Hahaha, with those prices even the discount doesn’t matter anymore. Jezus Christ that’s a rip off.

Nice ? I want one to do you have a stl file for share ?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4241694 - https://www.patreon.com/bigmrtong

Thanks ? ?

Those are great. Where did you get the chained up wolf? I really need a model like that

Yup. ?

Sometimes it's amazing how good two tone can look

Matt Lesmeister this month www.patreon.com/archvillaingames

Konstantinos Martinos cool thanks

I had to sub just so I could get those models! And my Photon doesn't even work at the moment. LOL!

Jesse DeGraff welcome!

Looks great.

Wow, maybe I should consider painting my minis

Jonathan Basseri hang in there

Slowly adding paint to mine

Joe Wolf Ritchie mournfang brown? Whatever it is its looking good

Just cheap .99 cent craft paints :) I don't paint enough minis at the moment to justify the more expensive paints.

Hello, please me serie printer & parametrs

Love the hound in chains, whats the model called or what do you call it?

Either print an arm and sculpt the gap, or just sculpt an entire arm. Or use for basing or scenery.

I keep all the failures, im sure I’ll find a use for them some day

Alex Bainbridge
Yeah, I'm going to figure out how to slice just the arm for him. Or somehow mark up that area and make it like a one armed ogre.

Undead creatures? They usually are missing parts

Ernest Sandridge Ill mesh mixer will give you a good slice. Just be prepared to do a bit of filling and stuff to get it to be a bit cleaner. All fun plus you’ll learn some solid gap filling /sculpting skills. Use green stuff or even milliput ??

Second time I've said this today in this group, "battle damage" lol

Spray it down with some stone textured spray paint, and you've gone from failure to statue. For bonus points, print a medusa!

Going to be interesting terrain piece!

Paint tests usually. Ruined statues. In his case maybe a mutant troll?

I used a failed Guyver print to test out what the best paint colors on it would be and the best method to do them.

I use them for paint tests.

I keep all of that stuff in an empty resin box and labeled it 'the bone pile"

Try to modell the failed tile with milliput/greenstuff....

What is it? A minion of Gozer?

James!? You and Star Wars!? I never suspected a thing.

Peter Martin I'm not like a super fan, but I did quite enjoy The Mandalorian

Glad we got photons before the lockdown, hey?

Where did you find the file?

That looks really awesome. I did something similar with the Bandai Boba Fett and a printed baby yoda. I don't think I got the scale right on the yoda...plus I will never be mistaken for a photographer. ?

Jerry Little oh my god, the fucking micro-yoda is sending me ? I love him

Where did you get the Base from?

Chris Jeanneret made it in blender.

Terry Schwiderson it's from a guy called Kieran Russell on Artstation.

Great job! This is the way

I printed that model over the weekend, its a great sculpt!

Beautiful

HE should be aiming at Yoda, and yoda be like "No! don't shoot me!"

This paint job! ?

James Steven Cheeseright are there any videos about for blender you'd reccomend

Chris Jeanneret err, not really, i'm not an expert I just made a circle and cut some holes out of it.

What layer height, and expiration did u use?

I find placement to be difficult too. Can get a good amount done then it's like it detaches from the supports. I use mediums not lights.
Still learning it too.

if it is model with shenlong, it will be to big for photon xD

Paweł Pyrczak

Anders Jens Ramm

ahh, the pose of legs is very close to model with shenlong

Anders Jens Ramm

Yeah, Goku isnt very original with his poses hahaha

exactly xD

Kevin Deiman do u slice directly in Chitubox??

first Prusaslicer for the supports, then Chitubox, then photon validator for missing supports

Kevin Deiman ooooh classic!

gonna watch that episode tonight again hehe

I think if the arrow is pointing to the right in chitubox than the long edge is facing out from the printer window. Or it's the other way round lol

no its left or right side

Kevin Deiman cool! If this a public stl?

This may or not be related to your issue but resin printers like printing vertically not horizontally. That much change in area from later to layer won't yield good results, going from tiny support points to a large surface area so quickly is difficult for the resin to do and you'll have binding issues

I'd recommend a more up and down orientation

Josh Berkley thanks for your Swift reply. I will try and reorientate it ? only did, cause I know that height equal time ?

Anders Jens Ramm absolutely right. A trick I like is to combine the print with a taller file. This piece looks like part of an assembly? If there are other parts you can't avoid the height with then throw smaller things in there and you get them for "free" time wise. If that makes sense

What resin are u using?

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious standard grey resin from Anycubic

I get good results with 6s exposure have u done a test?

Josh Berkley I am still very new, and still trying to dial in on, how to use the printer. Experimenting with layer height, exponation time aso. But thanks for the tip ?

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious I just got it yesterday and doing all kind of tests. Some with more success than others ? Can you tell me, if my layer height becomes smaller, eg going from 0,05 to 0,025 - shall I in- or decrease the expo time??

U should print the exposure test from thingiverse, if u post the results folks on here will help read the results. This will let u know the best exposure time for the layer height u test at. I print at 0.05 for 6 s normal. Dose that make sense?

If I printed at 0.025 I would run an exposure test for that layer height to find the best exposure time

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious it does. I did the rerf test that come with the machine, and found that 7 was best, with layer height of 5microns. But Can that just be directly transferred onto any model, big or small, that I print with the layer height?

Can you link me the exposure test you’re referring to? The rerf one was a real hassle, as all the non-good exposures didn’t stick to the print, but fell off and attached them self to the fab ? ? that was a real pain to get them off again ☹️

I think the test on thingiverse are better I believe and allow u to do different layer heights and use a lot less resin. If 7 was best at 0.05, I would use that. If I wanted to reduce layer height I would expect the exposure time to be less. But another test for that layer height would be best practice, I believe

Anders Jens Ramm I totally understand we all learn new things every day

Josh Berkley if u have any good source of in depth theory you can share I would be happy, as I right now just kind of wing it ?‍♂️

Anders Jens Ramm I'll be very honest I don't deviate from 8s/layer and 65s/bottom layer hardly at all. Almost never get failures unless I did a bad job supporting

Josh Berkley so I orientated it vertical, but I think maybe my supports are to small and exposure time to short. So I try again with heavy supports and exposure time of 10s. ?‍♂️

Anders Jens Ramm looks like an exposure time problem to me. If I had a clear picture of the entire object (a pic if the stl) I could have a better idea of a good orientation

What resin and what Photon are you using?

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Generally, I produce my heroic scale miniatures at 50 micron unless they are particularly ornate or it’s a special request.

Two thin coats of a nice primer seem to gloss over any visible layering other than that dang everpresent and slight z wobble

I have gradually started printing closer to 35mm scale (maybe this is considered heroic?). In so doing I feel pike alot of the details show and when I split a model up into parts they aren't so tiny that they're annoying to assemble.

I like to print .03 layer height for medium/tiny & .05 for anything large or bigger

Brendan Wood photon s and photon grey resin

Ryan Tudor what do you set your expo time to?

Anders Jens Ramm that mostly depends on resin and the temperature of your work space. Right now my jam is siriya fast grey. It is way more flexible than elegoo so I get less breakage. I may have traded some detail since switching but idk. Since I'm roughly 22°c (optimum is 25 i think?) I get good results with 6sec @ .03 and 10sec @ .05

The same for the Gamesworkshop miniatures

35 mm is way past "Heroic", generally I would expect that to refer to 28mm. "Heroic" also in conjunction with the above refers to certain traits in the sculpting - larger heads, hands, weapons, etc.

Then there are issues with the evolution of 25 into 28 and people selling "Heroic 28" that are 30 mm or more...

Joshua DeBoe thanks for that, I was blindly talking out of my ass. You are right, I shouldn't have used numbers when I do all my sizing to an stl scale.
You definately bring up a better point in that you really need to check the sizing of all your mo dels in order to give it the best continuity you can manage. Most designers just do their own thing so keep a look out. One exception I make is mz4250. He consistently and thoroughly makes models true to their sources.
35mm is way too tall. But I might give a major villain or an encounter boss alot more stature by scaling them to be abnormally tall. Maybe 32mm?
Be careful though, especially when scaling down. You can thin weapons and parts to a point that the photon can't print it.

Or perhaps the photon can, but I can't

Ryan Tudor Yeah I just had some prints that were labelled 1:700 but were more like 1:575 or thereabouts. Only 20 mm too long...

Joshua DeBoe do you have a workflow for measuring using exact numbers? Is there a preferred software you like?

Ryan Tudor So far I am working with model ships, so I just look up the real measurement, calculate the scale length, and then resize the model appropriately. I do allow for some scale creep - for example, I didn't resize the French 118-gunner down as much as I should have, because I want it to look big and impressive on the table next to the regular 74's.

It tends to be a battle between print detail and support damage. I have had decent success with reducing my exposure times and increasing the size of my light supports to get better detail. Again highly resin dependent.

Orientation. It sound weird but it's the main problem with the layers. For example with female minis you want to avoid print them straight because the bossom will end with marks.

Lmao babe yoda used the force to escape death.

Walk around in socks in the dark. Works for finding lost lego pieces also.

Use the force Oscar, trust your instincts.

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