Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

It depends on your resin. Elegoo Grey likes 20-25, but Siraya Blue likes to be warmer, etc

20+

ambient'ish

Best results for me are at 25c +

I would say 20c + is best, though I have printed at 16c ambient. The printer generates its own heat, so if you heat your resin before you start, you will give it that boost until it can heat things up myself.

I keep my Photon in a old wine fridge, and in 15c ambient, it will heat up the insides to 30c on its own.

70-75°F is what Anycubic recommends. Which I believe is 21-24°c.

I'm getting excellent results at between 16.5-18c with Anycubic black. Warmer would be more comfortable for me, though... ;)

I do not print at the moment because the printer is in my garage and the temperature is around 14C. I must wait! (Canada) ?

25°C work excellent, especially with clear resin, perfect prints everytime
(anycubic photon with anycubic resin)

Hotter the better until you're getting into harmful for electronics territory

this.
Warm your vat on an FDM print bed set to 35-40c

Between 20 and 25 i used to 18 to 23 and work well

90

Level it properly. + read the FAQ.

what are you printing

Rok Petrič the lattice test print.

I sanded my build plate a bit with high grit paper like 1000 or so, but really it came down to bottom exposure time and ensuring it was properly zero'd.

95% of the time its a leveling issue.

I have a somewhat unorthodox way of leveling, loosen the build plate, remove the vat, home, down 5 x 1mm, tighten, up .1mm x 5, z=0, get it back up and put the vat back. (Dont forget to tighten it.)

never over fill either, if that ball joint gets resin in it, it will never level properly and will require a good cleaning

Had perfect prints since day one. Reason? I spent a LOT of time getting it leveled.

is anything on fep?

Update your firmware if you haven't, make sure your plate is clean and dry before every print, relevel and then double check you tightened the plate fully after leveling. That solved all of my problems

I had the same issue and no amount of releveling worked. So I increased the base exposure time and bam, perfect prints.

Level the bed

Not even a hint of it taking to the plate

In this case, it's most likely your leveling, might be too high. Try this method
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K4G6ExEtk70

Make sure you clean your vat before trying again.

The fest print has the setting perfect for printing, if it failed the bed probably isn’t level

Michael Van Fossen I’ve seen people with slightly warped plates, so much so you couldn’t see it with your eyes alone

Paul Dodd I agree with you. I took mine and laid down the sandpaper on a known flat and level surface and sanded mine from there to what I think is a good surface.

Just a note, how far down you need to go for z=0 depends on the machine. Small variation in where the home sensor is affects it. I’ve written down where it is on my machines, and they’re all different

Your first layers need a longer exposure time. I usually run 8 layers at 80 seconds exposure for the first layers. That foundation is crucial

as others have mentioned, when you leveled, your z=0 was too high up.
It is unfortunate that Anycubic doesn’t set it at the factory like epax does

It was an absolute disaster a lot of resin has stuck to the build plate, had to use a metal screwdriver to get that of, so it’s very scratched now, the plastic you get was rubbish and the filter for the unused resin just leaked out all over the workshop, not exactly an enjoyable experience so far.

Daniel Prows Gotcha, makes sense.

Scratches are fine, but the plastic spatula should definitely be replaced with a plastic razor or metal spatula. The leaking in the filters is usually from over filling them or keeping them too close to the bottle

Chris Rees I kind of used it like a funnel so sort of held it too close I think. Won’t do that again.

That was the problem I had when I started, too. I think the mesh sits just above the top of the bottle and causes all sorts of problems

Terrible advice. Your FEP is 0.15mm thick so if you go up 0.5mm, you'll end up 0.35mm too high.

Bob Deblier Works for me flawlessly.

I followed the instructions on the bottle. It told me what to set the base exposed to

I went with the spreadsheet exposure times and haven’t had a failed print yet. I know my print is going to succeed because I hear that first pop when the first layer is done curing.

Home position is set by a small clip on the back. Not everyone's home will be in the same spot. What works for YOUR machine isn't universal.

Use a hairdryer for 30 second on the plate it will warm it

Most the time hairdryer fix it or re calibrate your plate sometime while removing print we change the position of the plate

what is your exsposure for the first few layers I always set mine to 50s have never has a issue

Kirk Sturgulewski I’ve upped the bottom layer to 80 seconds, hoping that makes a difference.

When I was having repeated failures, it turned out to be a spacing issue with my bed.

Use the Flint Reed method, and raise by 0.1mm, thats what fixed it for me.

As in, Home it with the vat in, go down until it gets hard to twist, tighten the bed, then move it up 0.1mm and set that as 0.

Not quite the same, but here is a 1/35 kayak paddle I printed. I'm no expert, but generally I would say you need to avoid having flat surfaces parallel to the build plate, and spend some time finding a good amount and size of supports (manually), so th e print does not fail, but without having to do insane amounts of clean up.

With long thin items, warping can be a problem too. I managed to cure this one straight, but it is now a bit curved.

The shaft is maybe 0.6mm thick and the blades thinner than that

Somebody said cure them underwater, I'd like to know if this really works. UV Protective lacquer apparently exists too, which prevents yellowing, but I've no idea what it is or where to get it!

From my experience the best parts you can get are made with two different resins. The first is applylabs MSLA clear , 10 second post cure (underwater if you wish) after it is cleaned in IPA, but I use Denatured Alcohol from Home Depot. The ither resin is polyjuice water washable, but its gotten expensive and hard to find. Then usually automotive 2 part urethane clear coats have UV protective qualities that will protect your print after the build lines are sanded out. The clear makes the matted, frosted look go yo a much better optically clear look.

I have glass clear prints that are over a year old sitting in direct sunlight, I used Monocure rapid clear, make sure your print settings dont over expose it or it will yellow. Clean with ipa or metho or whatever your cleaner of choice is. I cure in th e Aussie sun, 15 to 20 mins max should cure it (scratch a bit with your nail, should leave a mark if it is cured) then 2 coats of semi gloss tamiya clear or the gloss clear and barring any unforeseen issues it'll be clear. If it goes yellow in the sun you've left it out too long, if it does after the clear coat you missed a spot with the gloss

Monocure clear...watch your exposure carefully...little to no post-cure, and coat with a good quality uv-blocking clear coat

It's more about the resin than anything, most will yellow because of the cheap chemicals they use, better resins stay clear

Is the rest stuck to the fep?

Jason Willis nothing on the fep, i see sommes details, but i have to look hard with sun reflection

It's likely the wrong base exposure times for your resin then. Try adding a little time to it all and see if it makes a difference

Did you wash and cure it? I find taking it off the plate can make it easier to read too. That said clear resins don't work as well with the exposure test too

well, it's a rapid resin, said 5-15 sec on the box, (and i used the same resin in red with awesome results, it's eleego abs like translucent), so i'm a bit confused

Ðam's Voué light transfers through different pigments at different rates. Clear doesn't absorb as much as quickly

Jason Willis so i should try more than 20 sec then? it's weird, i used 5 sec on the red translucent, and this one should have same (according to eleego) settings, maybe my z=0 is too low? and i have not enough room?

Ðam's Voué z=0 to low would only limit you on the base portion of the build. The rest should print normally when you get farther in or it would be stuck to the fep.

What are your base times set to? What was the rest of the prints exposure time?

yeah, still nearly invisible, but i can see the "timer" on each, i'm confused because it's supposed to be 5-15 sec, and the test run 2-20is this supposed to be that thin?

Err the numbers go from 1-10, and you double the numbers to get the time (eg column 1 is 2 seconds, column 7 is 14 seconds). What's the name of the file you printed?

i used the test from this group, and since it's a rapid resin i used the rapid resin test; base 100 sec, 20 micron 2-20 sec

Tiernan Messmer resin-test-20u.B100.2-20, from the resin test i took in this group

Tiernan Messmer https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

Yeah that file is what I was describing. Not sure where you got the idea it was meant to be 5-15s from? The 2s to 20s is what the 2-20 means in the filename.

Tiernan Messmer the 5-15 range is for this resin, from the box :) so i tought 2-20 could cover more than necessary tests

Ohh I follow now. And yes it's meant to be thin. But yeah clear resins are hard to read

Tiernan Messmer

Tiernan Messmer more than hard, all test are flat, so i tought i did something wrong

the fact is, few month ago i did lot of awesomes prints, different kind of size and type of prints, i made a pause for 2 month (had a lot to do, and somes paints) and now, nothing work anymore.. i failed 20 prints in a week, with weird somes supports breaking in the middle or stopping at the end of support, with the print don't attached to it (but only on somes randoms supports) so i try another bottle of resin, in case for some reason my resin is corrupted, but i can't even get a good exposure test...

since all my problems were only bed leveling, and finding the good exposure time, i don't have much experience in problems resolutions, and i need help from people with more knowledge

You bought a wrong fan with pwm. You need a fan with 3 pins, which you can run, with just 2 pins installed. The 3rd pin is for the sensor. But a 4 pin fan needs a pwm driver, which the photon board doesn't have and so it can't drive it, unfortunately

Pierre Eichel And can you tell me where I'd plug a 3 pins fan please ? If you can circle on the picture, I'd appreciate

Audrey Col you can't just directly plug it in, you need to cut the cables and solder it to the 2 pins of your old fan ?

And so is there an alternative fan option that you know, that wouldn't require soldering please?

https://smile.amazon.de/....../ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i......

Those will work, but as I recall it was quiet hard to plug them in, at least I couldn't get the old plug out and therefore I just cut the cables ?

Pierre Eichel I plugged the stock one out already. But it will require a bit of finger finesse plugging anything back in ? ?
Thanks for your help.

You're welcome ?

I just changed mine as well, my question is did you remove the protective film from the FEP sheet?

Yes, I did (on both sides)

Yakın zamanda çin yüklememiz olacak getirebiliriz reçine isterseniz.

Hakan Ucar hangi marka

Emre Güneş talep ettiğiniz marka,model bilgisi verirseniz teklif alalım

Hakan Ucar biz anycubic türkiye distrubutoruyuz normalde stokta recine kalmamis . Esun olur veya tanindik bir marka olur 100 litre uzeri

tr üretici hiç almadım son durumu bilmiyorum. https://www.dragonresin.com

Are you talking about the popping? I think that is just the resin popping off the fep. That’s a good popping sound lol

Mine didn’t print right, I had to tighten it up all the way and it started to make a pop noise and now it prints perfect

Matt Carter not that, sorry should have been specifik. I think its the fan

Marc Krogh Henriksen hmmmm that is kinda weird.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLi3chV43LQ

Merv Hinton theres nothing wrong with the fep ? . It sounds like the fan is powering on and off

Sorry..replied to the wrong post

My fan makes a right racket - I think the rubbish fan in these contributes to the screen failure - I’m waiting for a better replacement for mine after having to replace the screen for the second time in 6 months

Darren Juniper jusus, that sounds expensive. Never had a problem with it until now, quite wierd

Marc Krogh Henriksen mines still under warranty and anycubic have sent me replacements without any issues so hasn’t cost me anything other than time waiting for the parts to arrive - it is a common failure if you search the web

I put a noctua 120mm fan in the bottom of recently. Its SO quiet now I can barely tell its running.

This is somewhat true, though Phrozen, who does higher end machines, say the LCDs last only about 400 print hours on average.

The stock fan IS inadequate though. The enclosure of mine was warming up quite a bit during operation and I just considered it normal, but I replaced the fan with another run of the mill local fan when it started making a noise, and it didn't warm up at all after that.

I had weird issues like this until I switched out the power supply from a 1.5v to 1.6. or maybe it is amps. Not at my printer atm.

What Chad Elstad said. Your under powered for some reason. Not got a clue why this would suddenly happen to you but that's defiantly a shortage of amperage you have there mate.

Vincent Wilson white lithium grease on the rod may help.

Chad Elstad why would grease on the rod help with it being underpowered? ?

Vincent Wilson could the screen be requiring more power than the old?

Marc Krogh Henriksen I thought that but he said that after he first changed the screen he had no problem. So figure his power supply may be at fault.

Marc Krogh Henriksen possible that less friction would reduce the load on the motor thus freeing up a little power. But to be honest if you need to do that it's really just best to upgrade the power supply so you never need worry about it.

Vincent Wilson hmm. Good thinking. Ill give it a try, while i wait for a power supply. Could i trouble you for a link to what you whould suggest? ?

Marc Krogh Henriksen when not properly greased, the screw has more friction and the power supplies barely have enough umph to run under good conditions. It's a lot cheaper thing to try than replacing something else. ;)

I'm just going the same at the moment but using 190 micron paint filters. Seem to get all the bits out. Where did you get the funnel/tray rig from btw? I'd find that immensely useful! :-)

I believe it's on Thingiverse.

James Dodd

I made this a few months ago, and uploaded it about a week ago :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4214103