Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

No

John Rudisill any suggestions please?

Carl White those are layer lines. You can try orientation change and printing at a lower layer level.

Joe Kirkus it’s only just started doing it and it started halfway up a print

Even doing it on file that have been fine previously

Carl White then I don’t know. Sorry buddy!

I have just printed another file and the print is stepping left to right as you look at the printer

Problem solved.

I tightened all the screws thatnhold the Z rail to the printer and also tightened the FEP by 1/2 on each screw

normal 12 off 8

Honestly I just had the same problem. Don't know if it would work for you but all I did was beef up the supports.

Rok Petrič what’s that bro?

Matthew Fry I was thinking about that.. I even hollowed before slicing

normal exposure 12 exposure off 8s

Rok Petrič gonna try it

Rok Petrič that could be the fail problem?

could be

So I was using Elegoo Grey and was able to print with tiny contact diameters on the supports. This was based on a video explaining supports...it worked for him and worked for me at first.

I swapped to AnyCubic Green and had similar problems. My contact diameters are now both .22 for my heavy supports, and only slightly lower for the light ones. My printing got immediately better.

Exposure is probably too low.

Adam Scaramella yeah. I think that’s what the problem is here. Because the supports are intact looks like they just fell off

You need to tilt the seats 20 deg. I like to use a good amount of heavy supports and pin all the details with the smaller ones.

How big are you layers? Thicker lays need more cure time. I use .03 @ 9sec for the green.

F Frank Padula could you please let me know if you figure out what the problem was?

Kasper Boysen I’m going to reprint soon.. I will post hopefully the success pictures lol

Frank Padula Sound good!! Let me know how it goes!!!(:

How did you figure out your settings? What slicer are you using?

Shaun Reno i use Prusa and then Chitubox and the settings are the base ones for the green resin. I haven't changed anything a part from curing resin settings

Usually it happens when I’m placing a support on a model that isn’t the currently selected model. The combined process of selecting another model and then adding the support will sometimes crash it. So I always go to the object mode and then select the next model prior to adding a support to it. Also usually only on models that have no supports on them yet, that’s been my experience

yeah thats it. Never payed attention to that. Thanks!

Sascha Berlin No problem!

Frame shearing! or slicing error due to dodgy STL with inverted normals.

Simon Wilson probably not dodgy stl as I've printed some of these and netfabbed.


Fix for frame shearing is the firmware?

Yes, if you have a version below 4.18 I think you will most likely have it happen at some point, versions 18 and 19 are free of the issue.

I remember we use to have to use transfers or hand paint them. So easy these days ?

Kurk Watson that‘s the Point, i dont like Transfer Sheets ?

For the Emperor!

You don’t play in sanctioned games right?

getting ready to support a load of blood angles pads. did you jsut use three supports for them?

Kirk Brownell no there are a lot more

Shaun Reno no this is my first Killteam Box ?

Michael Supraholic cool, i have like 11 added on the ones im working on, was wondering if i was going over kill with them.

Cool. I was just going to say that GW won’t let you play with 3D printed parts. It’s fine if you just play with friends and people who aren’t dicks.

Shaun Reno how would they know it's 3d printed?

Shaun Reno The Guy at my GW Store is Cool with this i think ?

Thrall Hood i dont know ??‍♂️
I printed at 0,02mm per Layer and you cant see a different between the Original and the printed one.

If you've designed the file itself, it's no different that moulding with greenstuff, plasticard or an other medium, as it's all your own artistry.

Thrall Hood I don’t know. I think it’s stupid but I guess if you’re already a money hungry companies and people find a way to give you less money you’ll get all pissy.

GW accidently swung a bit far towards "cool company" over the last couple years. time to get pissy about 3d printed shoulder pads....

Charles Lease i think they have other problems as a 3D printed shoulder ?

You dont need that many, I printed mine flat to the face with about 5 supports around the rim of the pad. Although I cant find my pictures now.

Several official tournements I went to allowed it as part of customisation as long as most of it was still a gw model, and if you could easily see what it was. It's just part of customisation.

Sjacco Antonius bwahahaha most my armies 3D printed, you can’t tell

Paul Dodd you the real mvp, my next force that's about to arrive requires about 50% printed parts and I'm excited to pass it off.

Chris Beaumont nothing better too if you are a modder, find a file and save that thing to your hard drive before it gets ripped down, I still buy GW stuff, I have the new box set coming

Paul I design my own stuff so not too fussed in that regard, it does dishearten me though when oop or unique designs GW doesn't even produce get either taken down, or dropped in fear of having their whole library taken down.

Just an FYI, but you can pause the print, and if you wait about 15 to 20 seconds, the build plate will raise up and you can see if it's falling. Very handy if you want to see if anything has started to print correctly an hour into an 8 hour print

Vivion Grisewood absolutely - I do that quite a bit...annoyingly this one started off ok - I then checked about 2hrs in, and stopped ? - but good tip ?

The part I hate about getting a failed print is you now gotta empty and clean the vat, total pia

It looks so happy

Jeremy Mongoose Harris just saw it.... ?

https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

Did you hollow the model?

I did not, I haven't tried to hollow a model yet.

Derek Fontes there’s your answer probably. Printing solid models will occasionally result in lines or shifts in your print

Try releveling closer to the screen then you think it should be.

I am using the same resin and am having success with 10 layers at 90 seconds

Tom Howley I’ll have to try that instead

Robert Jeppesen I’ve been trying closer each time but I’m always worried about messing up the screen, usually just do the paper test. I’ll try going closer though for my next print.

i've heard that if your resin is too cold, it'll be difficult to get the resin to stick to the plate, try heating the plate before printing

like the build plate? With a lighter or something? I know that’s the case with filament I hadn’t heard that with resin, may be worth a shot ?

the plate... hair dryer

Right I just had never heard that before as far as resin goes, I’ll try it though.

https://www.reddit.com/....../ai44zw/temperature_is_key/

James Richmond nice thanks for the link, my resin and plate should be in those perimeters already but I’m going to heat them a bit nonetheless to see what changes!

Gold Star, best foe every purpose. Little the investment, more the temperature, and proper burnout process. Cheers