Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Alcohol inks should Work Like for normal Resin casting

You just have to experiment. I have tried inks and resin pigments. They do make the resin more brittle, but they work.

Mix red and green resin?

I've been using the Elegoo water washable resins...I'll have to give that a try

Heh...didn't think of that. Thanks

Monocure cmyk pigments is another option.

They arent stopping deliveries.

Still going normal. Hard to get my hands on IPA but that's about it

They didn’t stop deliveries- they stopped taking in new stock. Stock is limited to what they have in the warehouse.

They are prioritizing medical supplies over "non-essentials".

The only change I've seen with Amazon is that now my deliveries that were same day or two day are now 4-6 days. :(

They are still delivering but are just prioritizing essentials and allowing people to choose No-Rush shipping to help get the right products to people who need them for medical, health and food requirements.

No...the few things I’ve needed to order came on time yesterday and the day before..but I do expect deliveries to get slower: Amazon is looking to hire 100k employees to keep up with the increased demand so until that happens, who knows

same. some prime filament that would usually have been next day is now 10 days. that's ok... I can deal if it means people get important stuff faster.

On a side note I’ve noticed resin rapidly going out of stock: I just ordered plenty this week to keep from running out...Siraya told me stock may be problematic going forward

An extra day or two to be delivered but nothing crazy yet.

They aren’t restocking nonessentials, so if you place an order and it says in stock, they will deliver it.

As far as I know, they’re only suspending incoming shipments of new product to the warehouse. If they have it in stock, I believe they’re happy to sell it to you and deliver.

I was just on their site and there’s no indication of any products not being available.

So much misinformation on this.

Amazon Prime next day is not happening. That's the biggest change to delivery .

Anything shipped and sold by Amazon is not affected yet*

*Is based on warehouse stock levels.

The third party resupply to the Amazon warehouse is what's being stopped.

So the warehouse has xxx boxes of Hatchbox Grey, they will ship and sell them as normal until their supply is gone.

So far it looks like it is going to just take a little longer to get items. Plan ahead.

I have resin I ordered yesterday being delivered today

Ordered a photon and 1l of resin on Amazon on the 11th march and since the 14th when it left Cincinnati it just says expect delays as it is in a hongkong processing facility

Not at all. That isn't for consumers...

They will keep running through the warehouse stock until it is depleted. It will be an interruption - but in the future and the timeframe will be unpredictable

Well I ordered two things last week from Amazon. Some little button battery holders, and some bulk quartz crystals. The battery holders got here in 2 days. Quartz was supposed to be here today but I just got an email that said it's delayed until next Monday - Wednesday is the new expected delivery date. It's non-essential items. Just things to screw around with in my crafting.

Not one bit

They arent stopping deliveries.

They are stopping inbound shipments to their warehouses from FBA sellers. Amazon is still taking deliveries for products that they themselves stock

I ordered resin yesterday and got it today

Delivery of new screen was scheduled for yesterday. Got a notification in the app saying it was pushed back to Thursday. Guess I’ll find out tomorrow

That was not what announcement said. They are not accepting non essential/high demand items into the warehouse. Shipping times have been extended.

No. Since I'm not a seller, I doubt it will anytime soon.

This honestly doesn't affect me one bit, but I always plan ahead so have depth in my stock so I never run out.

My wood filler and epoxy resin are going to take about a week to deliver instead of the usual 2 days. Other than that there haven't been any changes.

No need to clean the vat after every print.

You are actually shortening the lifespan of things like the fep by cleaning every print. Just clean when you change resin. You'll be fine.

I empty and clean the vat after every print and clean the build plate. But I don't print all that much. Once every few weeks.

Way to much.

Vat clean after a failed print or once a month / when resin changed
Build plat once a month
Inside printer weekly quick dust / once over with IPA / cleaning solution

I run 20 resin printers almost 0 failures.

I don't even clean the plate unless it's when I change resins or I know its gonna sit idle for a while.

Clean vat the same way unless theres a failure, then I strain the resin to see if theres any stuck or loose bits. Get them out and keep going.

If you don’t have parts of a print fail there’s no need to clean like that...some of my printers are going on a couple weeks of 24/7 printing and I only remove the print, make sure the plate is clean and start the next print

Scott Pavlich ditto same with me. Now if they would make an auto filling mechanism for the vats so I don’t worry about running out. I already fill it as max as I can without over flowing and never pause to add more.

I clean off the build plate with Sprayway and a paper towel, clean off my scraper the same way, and get on with more printing. As others have said, unless you have a failed print, it's sufficient to just refill the vat and keep on going.

following, had issue on last print i did.
Supports and everything were there, just didnt print the legs but everything else above.

Enough suction to delaminate the layer if not enough exposure time perhaps because it wasn't hollowed and then after it came down it squished the layer back "in place" cured over the top and then had enough to keep going. Up your exposure by .5 seconds and hollow the model

Hollowing a 28mm model is not worth it. But exposure increase and maybe temperature too

My guess would be a file error ?‍♂️ .

Hopefully someone who knows can answer your question properly.

Mine does this before the screen fails every time

this, pre warm your resin and consistent room temp (i aim for 20c). laziest way to reduce suction. exposure looks fine for now.

oh actually, another possibility is you missed an island, it stuck to the FEP, and the next layer gets peeled off by the edge.

and another
maybe you knocked your machine.

Then it just stopped after like 5 times doing it... what is happening!?

in my experience thats the 'good sound' you need, so you know the object is sticking to the plate.

thats a good sound, thats the model seperating from the feb ( shit to slow )

Really!? Cool. It is the first time I hear that! And I have a heavy collection of minis to prove I had lot of succesful prints in the past. Thank you a lot guys!

It’s your print coming away from the fep. It’s a good sound.

It usually stops after a few base layers.

The pop sound is vacuum effect. Similar thing happen if you face down a bowl at water, and lift it up.

Normal. Be happy

You want this! It’s peace of mind (usually).

It's all good. ? ?

It’s the print pulling away from the FEP. It’s a good sound

That is the sound of Success :) Congratulations

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BESOAAiYhBs

Normal. It's the layer popping off the screen.
If it gets any worse check the red bolts that hold your vat down and make sure it's not lifting it up and dropping it

It's the sound of WINNING!

Yeah, you actually want that sound. It’s louder if you have more surface area sticking to the FEP, like with bottom layers. When it’s just supports you can barely hear it.

My knee

sweetest sound ever. Everythink is ok :)

I actually heard this sound too yesterday and I panicked, stopped everything, cleaned everything and restarted the print. After that I just assumed it's normal and ignored it :))

Actually NOT hearing that sound will have you worried in the future! 8) (spoiler alert: NO sound does not automatically mean your print has failed though!)

LOL First time thunk panic syndrome needs a catchy name. Get busy! We have time!

FiTTPaS ?

The print pulling away from the FEP.

Mine makes no sound and so far so good! Sounds like your film needs tightened.

perfectly fine.

If yours makes no sound, yours may need tightening.

That's a good sound. If you don't hear it early, I've learned that means my print will probably fail

Thats the "Oh thank god" sound. It means the print is sticking to the build plate and not the FEP.

If you don't hear that, you're in trouble.

Good sound

its depending on how large is exposed area if you printed many small separate minies it may be silent but when you fill the whole plate withouth spaces it will POP more likely

Petr Grössl That's actually a good explanation. Thank you a lot!

It is tightened. It runs so quiet and smooth.

It's the 3D printing gods praising you for filling your vat up to the absolute brim.

Garret Bertrand best sound ever!!!!!!

Robin Dovber Tunkel my neck ?

Music to my ears ?

You have no idea; When the plate started to descent and It was going deeper and deeper I started to shit bricks for real.

The sound of victory

Means you've nailed it bud!

Success. That is the sound of success

That's the shit!

It's the way it works

This is the best sound.

You may want to wait untill all those airbubbles are gone befor printing

It is the angels singing

That was my first question! :D

it means you need to send it to me :)

?

Thats some frothy resin you got there...

that is the good sound of the cured resin popping off the fep!! you are doing it right

that's a GOOD sound!

That’s the sound that the Cheerios make when you mix them with resin

I rarely hear the pop anymore. I've dialed in my resin so there is very little suction and haven't had any failed prints for a while!

Hi is FEP film pushed away from print

It means you can relax ;)

I remember when I asked/posted the very same thing. You can relax, everything is working as planned.

My first print I didn't hear that.. had to lower my z a bit more as prints we're not adhering to the bed.

Alonso Elias Rojas Ferrer basically the first few layers are cured extra long. When your curing normal times it seems to be less likely to happen, though it may sometimes still.

If your hearing the popping sound be happy, all that's happening there is the fep smacking the lcd each time it releases a new layer. You'll only hear the pop whenever there's a larger surface being released. I listen for the pop especially on the firs t layers. If I don't hear a pop then I stop to make sure the job has stuck to the build plate. In 80% of the cases no pop the job hasn't stuck to the plate its stuck to the fep.

The sound of success

delete that ball joint, its not worth the trouble it causes... go with a solid mount, or even print one of the options on Thingiverse. Ive got dozens of perfect prints using a solid printed mount.

Shane McAlister dozens you say? I've put many hundreds through my ball joint bed and have never had it budge. So, user error?

Tim Moulton maybe, it's the first time I've had the issue, I'm not worried, just thought I'd share it.

Tim Moulton yes dozens, I've only purchased the Photon S in the last 2 weeks. The first thing I didn't like was the ball joint setup and grub screw arrangement.

Apparently there can be a second grub screw in the slot, preventing it from actually tightening. May be worth looking at on yours

It's not supposed to stick to the FEP.

Mine arrived in this exact configuration, wouldnt allow me to level... thats when I broke the entire joint assembly down to see what the problem was, thats also when I decided to delete that setup.

Shane McAlister granted I’ve only printed a total of 6 prints, mine hasn’t moved at all when I tightened it. I just got it level finally and it seems fine to me

Tucker Adams yea I get that... like I said, after the disassembly of my new unit, I didnt like the design, so I updated it. Ive had zero failed prints.

Shane which one on thingiverse did you use?

use this easy calibrator and fix bed
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3096818

John Coyne https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4021242

Completely disassemble it and start again..I did..never had an issue..haven't relevelled..printing for 8+ months now.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdiNI_Xu6bI

No complaints, was easy to level first time, hasn’t moved, no failed prints since I got the machine.

Noah Belveal I’m still learning so I wanted to ask for clarification, build plate shouldn’t stick to fep but print should, right? The print pulling away is the “pop” sound? I’ve only had more of a peeling sound than a pop this entire time

Good question. I think I see your misunderstanding.

The pop sound is good because it means the print is separating from the FEP. This is not to say that some sticking to the FEP is good, but that it is expected/unavoidable.

My S did this, my OG never has. Take it apart, clean it, tighten everything down and you’ll be good to go.

you have gotten resin on the ball joint, had a similar issue

Is it the double screw issue from a while back?

You have to remove 1 screw, tighten the one under it and then you screw in the second one again to lock it in place

Why do people keep repeating this crap? There's only supposed to be one grub screw to lock the build plate. If there are two, it's an assembly error from the factory.

You know, in the latest photon file validator, you can locate the island, click it in the preview and it gives you a zoomed in view, where you can left click to add pixels and right click to remove pixels....
If the auto fix it doesnt work I do it manually, and if you remove something that is supporting a higher layer, that layer will then show up with an error for you to correct.

yep, new screen time

just check its not resin on the top .. but doesnt look like it

Mike Tongue thanks Mike

We had this exact issue with one of our machines and we had to replace the LCD to fix it, unfortunately.

Trying to find some good cheap castable resin myself. Anything I've seen so far it's about $60 and up for 500 mL which seems a little bit crazy expensive to me considering regular resin is only 16 to $18 for 500 ml. How do any of the regular resin burn out of a mold or do they?

I've only done wax injections

Kenny Prestia another thought I had is if the program exists where you can take like a ring that you've made and have the program build a mold around it. Then you could export the mold and print that, inject it with some wax and use that for your casti ng. Where printing the ring by itself might cost $0.25 for the resin, printing a mold for it might cost 50 to 75 but I think it would still be cheaper than castable resin. I don't know if such a thing is even possible but it's just some idea that I had.

Keith Yinger I've seen some people do it. But it burns off dangerous chemicals... They also did the burn outside

Ryan Neal I'm outside whenever I'm doing anything with my Forge anyways. It was the ash residue that it might leave behind that I was thinking about. I've got a gas mask on whenever the forge is burning and I'm near it. As far as burning off dangerous chemicals that thought didn't really occur to me. Couldn't be any more dangerous than zinc fumes when you're melting brass or something like that I protect myself from anyways. I'm going to have to sit down with something like Fusion 360 and see if I can figure out how to make molds. It seems like you can use it to create molds I'm just not sure how. Also not sure if I can take for example a ring and tell it to make a mold of this?

I've seen some formlabs stuff claiming to be able to make molds for low temp melt metals.

As for castable resin, I use the lost wax method w/ castable resin

I'm hoping to do Lost wax casting also just trying to think of a different way than spending 60 bucks or better on castable resin. I would 3D print a mold then use it to make a wax cast. Then go about lost wax casting in the normal way.

Most likely its the cable. try re-seating it a few times.

There’s a few more bits of info needed: where did you get your replacement screen? Was it Anycubic or another brand? What was happening that prompted you to replace your screen?

Jon Vogel elegoo screen, but they are the same specs. Had to replace old screen due to resin leakage.

Did you use the cable adapter that came with the Elegoo screen?

Jon Vogel yes, if only because it makes the whole connecting thing easier :)

Kyle Urban ok, good. Without that adaptor you damage your main board.

Mongo Rogers I wish, tried fifteen times, no luck

Mine gets here tomorrow. Did you ever figure out the issue?

Jason Chadwell no, I think this Chinese shtbox is dead and I can't figure out why. Maybe I ruined the connector by pressing too hard or something :(

Kyle Urban yeah, I don’t have anything for you, bro. When my screen went out, I tried the Elegoo and didn’t know about the adaptor and had to replace my motherboard. After I got the new MB and a Anycubic screen, I was back in business.

I'll let you know if I make out with the screen. Will be sure to use the adapter as well. Nothing else going on for a couple of weeks may as well try it.

Jon Vogel guess I can always try a new mb, but that's another 90$. Might as well buy a new one :(

Kyle Urban yeah. Don’t know why the mb is so expensive. I went ahead and bought another Photon and the mb. Wife was out of town. She didn’t notice the 2nd Photon. Still hasn’t. Anyway, it’s nice to have a backup unit for sanity checks when debugging a broken one.

Jon Vogel So ~130$ for a new mb and new screen or ~230 for a new Elegoo Mars... Anything cool I could do with the photon if I don't fix it up? Turn it into a cool UV curing chamber maybe?

Kyle Urban sell it to someone for parts?

Kyle Urban I had both the Mars and Photon and I decided that I liked the Photon better. So, YMMV.

That's a scary thing for me, when the time comes I'll have to check a lot of tutorials and make a lot of questions lol. Thanks for sharing your experience so we can learn.

Jon Vogel still not sure what to do here. Was looking at new main boards, but you'll see that I buy one and a week later the uv lights burn out. Photon zero could be a cheap option (only slightly more expensive than the main board... :S), but not sure how bad the resolution actually is in prints. Phrozen sonic mini would definitely be a winner, but impossible to find for sale, let alone for 200€. 260€ was cheapest I could find for a elegoo Mars in the end... Sigh. It's not easy, a printers life.

Kyle Urban your UV went out? Dude. That’s some really bad luck. Probably it’s the controller, since the LEDs are pretty reliable. Wish I were there to help you debug.

If it is the controller, a new MB might fix both your problems.

My new Elagoo LCD is held up in shipping but I will make sure to let you know how it works for my Photon. That might indicate other problem with your machine or I'll be in the same boat.

Jon Vogel nah, uv is still good, but I'm afraid that if I patch up the mb on the photon now, something else will break down next. I think I know what to do; I'll buy a new photon and keep/use this broken one for spare parts.

Ok well my Elegoo screen showed up today and I'm up and running again, works great. The only thing I noticed is it would be easy to plug in the MIPI adapter the wrong way round or plug into the MB the wrong way round. Other than that pretty straight forward. Also half the cost of Anycubic replacement:) Sorry you had so much issue on yours, let us know how it progresses. Best of luck