Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I have a problem with my screen only a half work. Where the problem is comming from Thanks all

Try turning the printer off and on. It happened to me once and my printer is only 1 month old. See if it helps.

I forgot to add, once you have turned off the power and turned it on, do a screen test to see if the problem persists before printing.

Known issue. Search group for "half screen."

Power cycle.

Fixed?
No, then update or reflash firmware.

Fixed?
No, then open and check that all cable connections are seated correctly.

Fixed?
No, then SOL. Contact anycubic.

Have you run it through the prusa slicer?

Chris Beaumont I haven’t. I’ve always been able to get Chitubox to work previously.

I just use the prusa slicer to fix errors. Sometimes its auto fix feature gets rid of artifacts I miss in models I make.

Chris Beaumont I’ll download it tomorrow

Check normals of the model

I guess that end of the part is just really happy.

Martin Mjöllnir Umgjer ?

Piece printed well after changing orientation. Not a proper 90degrees in the big angle, but close enough

But when I wen to drill the screw holes out, it cratered and cracked. ?

Oh well, a dry fit showed me I had adjustments to make. Back to tinkercad.

It’s meant to hold a creality end stop on the X axis. The top channel has the belt in it, so designed to screw into the front

I find slowly drilling before curing works for me.

Yeah, that’s the plan next time. And also make the holes more accurately sized.

Brian..out of interest...should you be of a mind to.. experiment with slowing the print lift speed.. I have a theory that lift speed and / or temperature related Resin viscosity are the culprits here.. Ref : https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

Merv Hinton that's pretty interesting I'll be sure to give it a proper read through later on

your bottom layers for the supports look REALLY thin. What Bottom Thickness on the supports are you using. I'm running .80 and mine look way thicker than yours do.

Chris D'Andrea actually don't know, I'll have to have a look when I'm back in work

Mine are 0.30 on the heavies and they print just fine ?

Try manually putting supports all around the edges..especially the corners...appears to 'force' the full print

Worth a shot

David there is a German Guy video on yuotube..I'll see if I can find it...

If the so-called "Fauxton" is the Photon S innards in the Photon case, simple logic would suggest that the Photon S test can be used.

I thought fauxton has the original Photon LED rather than the upgraded -S version. i figured that would mean different print times and therefore the -S calibratoin test wouldnt be accurate. But I dont know ,hence the enquiry

I'm pretty sure the fauxton just has the photon s motherboard, everything else is the same as the photon.

If you cant read the .photon file you need to upgrade the firmware to 5.x.xx or whatever the v5 firmware is

its not the .photon file im having a problem. its gcode for the resin xp finder off github. I'm hoping to avoid multiple subpar test prints while i dial in the settings for the new resin

Christopher King the LED wasn't upgraded - just the original CBD mainboard replaced with the one from the Photon S.

There is one on Thingiverse for the Fauxton S..

Detailed Steps:

1) Put your used, saturated IPA into a transparent or clear container with a lid, to prevent evaporation loss.
2) Expose to direct sunlight for 3-7 days. A sludge will fall out at the bottom. That is Resin Jelly. Your IPA will visibly change to almost 100% clear.
3) Carefully empty the container without disturbing the sludge. The IPA is ready for reuse. I typically recover ~80% without being overly careful.
4) To make sure you don't carry over any of the jelly, pour the recovered IPA through a coffee filter.

would those paint filters that the printer came with work?

Warpy Pagan I don‘t think they‘re ideal. You could also use a kitchen roll or sanitary paper, but best results would be coffee filter or filter paper for labs

Can you use a curing station?

Nick Ahlbin I would not use the curing station for this, the resin jelly is really hard to remove from the container once you left this mess in the sun for a few days. Better to go with a disposable or just extra container. Protip: if you let the jelly dry with the lid off, it‘ll eventually turn into a brittle substance than can be removed. Takes a few weeks tho.

Martin Hallmann but I can put a PET bottle in it

and what do you do with the sludge? I got a hard time getting all of it out without that everything flocks into thousands of particles and it is everywhere

Kevin Duong ideally, when the sludge is the only thing left in the container, let it air dry in the sun for a couple of weeks. It turns into a brittle plastic that can be easily removed. For filtering out particles of the stuff use, well, a filter.

Nick Ahlbin ah I see. Yeah but you need several days of exposure, so it should work but the sun might be the more comfortable choice.

Martin Hallmann several days sounds a bit extreme

:-)

Nick Ahlbin Germany in winter time. Your results may vary.

Sweden is probably worse

You could try modifying the Motion Tuning in the factory defaults file and uploading that. Not tried it yet. https://github.com/....../firmware/factory-defaults.zip

Simon Wilson thank you! I’ll look into it, but it seems a bit advanced for me at this stage.

I need to test this myself at some point as it would allow using a thread with 1mm pitch instead of 2mm, which I'm sure would have only positive effects on the resolution, so if I finally get round to it I'll post in this group. It means you could simply have a file that you select and print to reconfigure for each type of resin depending on its expansion properties, for example.