Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I have had one for 2 weeks now, for me it saves space, saves time, gives better results and makes the whole process mech simpler, cleaner and gives better results. No real downsides unless you can’t get hold of enough ipa/meth to fill the tub

I keep forgetting what meth is short for in this group.

Benefits:
- Much less hassle than my previous set up of a magnetic stirrer in a small container.
- The impeller is much stronger at moving the fluid and ends up much cleaner than before. The reverse spin halfway through is awesome.
- It's nice to be able to hang the build plate to clean it at the same time as the print.
- The curing is well done too. Wavelength is correct, wattage is strong, turntable and timer are nice. My previous set up was a solar turntable and an LED strip in a bucket.

Overall, it's more streamlined, less effort, better result, less messy, and less space than the previous set up.

Only downside is finding a place to store the basket or build plate holders and turntable when not using them, but that's something I can design and print.

Takes up less space than two pickling jars and a make shift curing box in my case.

Pretty much what they said!

I love mine. I got by with ultrasonic washers and homemade light boxes but this is so much simpler and streamlined.

I think those points are literally in those videos... I know that sounded rude but, videos are better testimonials that have our words misinterpreted or not stated well enough

It’s incredibly expensive and you can do better for the same price and a bit of elbow grease.

Adam Zed for some people, elbow grease is more expensive.

It doesn't look damaged. Just dirty of cured resin

I accidentally damaged mine when removing a failed print that was stuck to the FEP. I didn't poke a hole through it, so I'm still using it. It's not affecting prints much.

Use the plastic spatula to gently remove it

You sure it’s not dried resin

Geren W Mortensen Jr you can use it unit you've a puncture

Lorenzo Di Sante it is a bit damaged it’s all bumpy/crinkly (like it’s been heat up) (not saying it is)

Right. The only effect it has, in my case, is a very slight deformation on flat surfaces that are parallel to the FEP.

Matthew Street are you sure you removed all the stuck resin? Doesn't seem from images

Richard Hale yeah I’ve clean out the tank and tried getting it off it’s not coming off and it’s like the Feps melted

Geren W Mortensen Jr exactly, if you're printing 100% flat surfaces you need a 100% clean fep. But after few hours printing the fep deforms by itself. Luckily I basically never print flat stuff and when I do I can sand a little the surface

Matthew Street did you use alchol? It helps to detach cured resin

Matthew Street I'm pretty sure fep can't melt easily ? if you didn't heat it it's impossible

Sorry for bad video

Lorenzo Di Sante

The one flat item I print regularly is a lid for an electronic project box for a product I sell. I've found that, even with the wrinkle in the FEP, the "finish" side, which I print right on the build plate, is perfectly smooth. The wrinkle appears, very slightly, on the back.

Lorenzo Di Sante yeah I used alcohol but sorry maybe didn’t word it right I meant it’s like it’s been melted ?

Matthew Street okay it's like melted. You're right. This is very weird

Geren W Mortensen Jr I’ll give it a go later and see if it affects anything

Matthew did you changed it recently? You sure the tension was good?

Maybe it was too tensioned and it went into breaking point

Lorenzo Di Sante Nah I haven’t changed it I’ve had it ( the print for about a month) I haven’t done many prints still new to it trying to figure it out (I have had a bunch of failed prints

Matthew Street and when this thing happened was after a failed printing?

Lorenzo Di Sante yeah

Lorenzo Di Sante I tried a print it failed (got annoyed) left it a few days (resin still in tank) cleaned out the failed print and started a new one

Matthew Street and you noticed it after starting the new print?

Lorenzo Di Sante after I started the new one it finished after a few hours seen that a few things succeeded (multiple objects on print bed) I decided to completely empty my tank and clean it out then I noticed it

Well there’s no “slicing error” that can damage your fep, so most times failed bits or print, or poor removal of failed prints will result in damage

Matthew Street do you preheat your resin with heatgun or other similar water?

Scott Pavlich I count be that (poor removal I might of used to much force)

Lorenzo Di Sante nope I just pour it into the tank and go

Matthew Street ? maybe you didn't completely clean your vat when the print failed and when you stared a new one some hardened resin damaged your fep under pressure. Now you can only change it though

I had the same thing happen after about three weeks of printing.

Lorenzo Di Sante yeah that could be it (sounds logical) but Scott also makes a good point I may if used to much force when trying to clean it off

Well I’ve just ordered some more FEP sheets I’ll use the other side for now (it’s only on side) and I’ll use that sheet for practicing my prints

Matthew Street i hope it doesn't give you a hole! Tape the edges of your screen with kapton tape

Like I did here

Lorenzo Di Sante thank you so much for you ideas and suggestions (so do I need to do a full clean out if a print fails then (or is there a better or easier way to get the failed bits out ?

Lorenzo Di Sante is that to stop any leakages from going into the lcd ?

Lorenzo Di Sante and that’s a really good idea

Matthew Street you've to filter your resin back in the bottle, pour some alcohol in the vat after some minutes you can peel of the failed layers with the plastic spatula, then dry with a towel and you can pour back the resin

Matthew Street exactly. So I'm always sure it won't go inside the screen and onto the UV lamps

Lorenzo Di Sante ah ok so I need to do a full clean ?

Matthew Street exactly, your fep and screen will last longer

Matthew Street Place a piece of tape on the underside of the vat as well, right on the fep....done it a few times to prevent catastrophe

You cant damage only one side of the fep. It's so thin any damage to one side will damage the other. It's like saying you only have a hole on one side of a piece of paper.
Can you describe the actual damage, it's hard to make out from the pic. It almost looks like there is protective film that had lifted from the fep.

Robert James yeah true and I understand the pictures ain’t the best but I’m not fully sure how to explain it the only way I can think about it is if you got a thin piece of plastic that had been melted (way you used a heat gun on a plastic bottle)

looks like cured resin on the fep to me.

Warm the fep with a hair drier and the majority of the damage should dissapear

James Forder cool I’ll give that a try tonight

Stinks of a con

Is be careful, the postage alone should be several times the selling price

Given IPA is at an all time scarcity in western Europe i guess at this being fake probably a scam or Iso-Propanol labeled as IPA, people are selling 1L for £40 at the moment because of the scarcity

(you may be able to fined 70% stuff still around however but its shit)

Unfortunately £7 for a Litre... Is very much over.. Looked at getting more for printing but I will just have to go carefully with what I have.

Just swap to meth spirits. Smells nice too XD

Everclear works too right?

Check that shipping cost...

Matt Wickham just bought some for £8 a litre on Amazon

Mark Browning oh really... Couldn't find any thus morning... None that were sensible in price.

Matt Wickham that was only two days ago, had to search a bit to find a sensible price and bought 5 l

White absorbs ok so you can probably try 8 sec or so without losing detail to be safe. 5 might be a little soft on some features and you start losing them on the FEP

Ben Johnston I used 6 seconds in the clear resin at that height, and the details came out great. Would the white require longer curing than the clear?

You can more safely cook the white a bit longer because the light doesn't bleed through it like it does the clear resins.

My hero forge prints have always looked great at 40 micron layer heights. Exposure settings will vary by resin.

what is 40 micron layer heights? I only have it as mm

Unless you show us pics its only guessing

40 microns is .040mm

Most likely overexposed

almost impossible to get a picture showing the lack of features.

Not really people do it all the time?

most likely over exposed but we don't know for sure

What resin, which photon, what settings? Do you have a pic of what the model on supports looks like? Are you using a soft bristle brush to remove uncured resin before final curing?

It's the anycubic black. Photon S. I did .002 at 14 exposure 3 off. I clean the miniatures in 99% alcohol in a jewelry cleaner.

Matt Stone Is the 14s based on a resin calibration/range finder test, or a sheet of suggested settings, or something else?

My gut feeling is that 14s sounds high for a Photon S, but have no personal experience with that resin. If you have not already done a resin exposure range finder test it would definitely be worth it to make sure you are not over-exposing. Poor detail is a typical symptom of over exposure

Also I assume you mean 0.02mm?

Yes that's what I meant.

A patreon I sub to said to use those settings

Are you sure that suggestion was for the S and not the regular photon? Thats not out of the range for the regular model, but the S prints much faster. Have you done an exposure test?

I have not, what's that

Overexposed by a lot. For maroon resin 0.02 i use 3-4 seconds on photon S.

I'll try that as well

I had that same issue. Follow the recommended settings (( a quick Google show help you out )) but the real trick is to lay the figure down with the face up.
Dont know why it helps but it dose. Even at a 45 you'll get blur.
Took me a while to get that one right

Vlad Trofimovskiy at 0.02, 14 seconds is even way high for the original photon. no depending upon other factors three to four seconds could be good or five or six seconds could be good at that layer height.

Matt Stone 14s on .02 (I hope you didn’t mean .002) because even at .02 you are running 5 secs over what I do for .04 layers....no wonder you aren’t getting good details

macro shots are tricky on cell phones. I also have trouble taking good detail shots of small models. /=

I'm also interested in people's go-to exposure test models. Do you use the RERF file that came with the photon?

For reference, I've been printing AnyCubic Black on a Photon Zero at 0.05mm layers & 8s exposure. I just switched to 0.3mm layers & 6s exposure and got decent results.

So I'm currently doing .02 at 3 seconds and it's working really well.

I just did a clear print. I cured it for a short time then I dipped it in pledge floor wax.

what's your exposure length?

Ken Chi Nok Ng I did this at 12 sec

Ken Chi Nok Ng sorry I doubled check it was 10 s

? I don't know why mine came out slightly yellow so, but, it wasn't yellow untill after I washed it in soapy water after washing in IPA, it still looks like glass coming out the IPA till I rinse it in soapy water

Ken Chi Nok Ng it does that. Same as mine. It cleared up after I dunked it in pledge floor wax. You could also use clear gloss spray.

ah ok, I'll get some clear coat tomorrow, thanks

More pics here: http://imgur.com/gallery/kQElssq

Looks cool ?

Niffty

Beautiful colour, very creative! Thanks for sharing the tip!

Leonardo Escovar Quintero yw. Thank you!

Looks awesome

8 seconds for .05 is way too low. Unless you have an S, then I don't know.

FEP tensioned properly?

if ur using anycubic green start with 10 layers at 80 seconds each then do .05 layers and 11 seconds each and adjust from there. I get great results with that.

i have an S and the FEP is tensioned at 120 mhz

edit* sorry its at 320mhz

Eric Causeway example

With the door closed and plate off, no vat. Print and film. If you have a s photon, go to detection select first box then play, repeat for each box

Eric Causeway I'm still very new, but was under the impression FEP was to be at 350hz

sorry i meant 320, im sick right now lol

Hoghead Hoffer I second this setting.

I think your issue come from here , set it to 5mm height ;) The other setting are fine, 8s for .50 is good , personally I'm at 6s and 2s off time , that's quicker and it's work pretty well ;)

thats been adjusted between 4-6 and its failed each time

Eric Causeway ok because on your pictures it's set at 0,40mm so the plate can't well unstick the layer with this distance ;)

base exposure up to 70 or 80