Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I've heard these are quite good. https://www.dragonresin.com/....../model-resin-dlp-lcd......

Super thick resin to use,Have very mixed results with it,End up with alot of metallic on top side of prints and not so much down sides

Thank you for the wonderful STL.

super cool!

My first fully completed print and he will be my 5th ED Alpha Werewolf boss in my friends campaign

amazing!

Thank you so much for this amazing model!

William Tatum glad you had some fun with it

Please model printer

Sirayatech Blu and Tenacious are well spoken for in this community and I personally mix about 20% tenacious into my miniatures that have thin brittle segments

Sirayatech looks like it would suit my purposes fairly well, and The Tenacious flexible is well priced also. Thanks for the suggestions!

I use Monocure 3D Rapid flex 100, it’s fantastic

Yeah! A liter goes a long way because you rarely want to print in its pure form (though you certainly can)

Ventilate it well, the urethanes are quite noxious

Monocure is a bit more than what I'm willing to spend at the moment. It's actually what prompted this post.

Shawn , that makes sense - it’s a very useful product, I’m local to the manufacturer so delivery costs are really nothing for me so it’s a bit easier

I mixed elegoo abs-like with anycubic cause it was all I had. 50/50 mix and it seems to have some flex to it. Enough that I won't worry about dropping a mode and it breaking.

Shawn Michael Rains I have found it to be a little more temperature sensitive than anycubic. If it is chilly I hit with the heat gun a little.

I have my unit in an enclosed cabinet and it usually sits at about 80F (~25C) while the machine is running, so I didn't think about that actually!

do you need back side of this shield? If i wolud lean it back a bit to keep it on buildplate ;)

You'll mostly get some curling out at the ends. If it's a flat surface the supports are attached to I'd print it directly to the bed.

ok thank you. What do you mean curling ? The part will curl ? Wasn’t sure you could print it directly in the bed. Just about everything I’ve seen shows supports on the bottom

I’d angle it back some and add more supports along the way. It will reduce the print time by a large margin.

Like this?

that is a removable panel/door so the back part of it will be seen and used a lot

could you explain how that will make the print time faster please?

Jimmy Clark your printer works one layer at a time. The taller the print, the more layers you will need.

By angling the print you cover a larger surface area at once.

If you were to lay it flat on the build plate it would take 30 minutes or so. But standing up depending on size it could take 14 hours.

Jimmy Clark i don’t know how printing flat on the plate would work. It would certainly make it harder to remove.

But printing it at an angle will allow more supports to be placed below and increase adhesion to the plate. In addition to also cutting print time down overall.

Jimmy Clark yep

Christopher Barnes laying other flat would use less support and less of a chance damage when removing the supports but would it make it that much harder to remove the print?

?

Jimmy Clark flat wouldn’t require any supports assuming the back is flat. It would also be the fastest. It’s possible to remove the item. I have never printed flat though.

You can also place stuck prints with the plate in the freezer for a little. It should just fall off once it gets cold enough.

Jimmy Clark angle more to make it lower and shorten print time. Add more supports and spread them around evenly. Also watch these videos if you haven’t.


https://www.youtube.com/playlist......

What are the dicks for

...friends...

Chad Burleson they’re valve stem caps. To be placed on friends vehicles when they aren’t paying attention.

Chad Burleson for chicks

Talk about getting lonely quickly. ?

What are those, dildos for ants???

My wife is also in quarantine with me. And three dogs.

it obviously isn’t helping.

My latest project. First picture has 28mm mini for scale

Alexander Bayerdorffer This is the dragon im printing.

https://www.patreon.com/posts/dragon-painting-32824865

Christopher Barnes pretty sick what age/size dragon

Alexander Bayerdorffer Ideally whatever you want. It has fire that I printed too.

Based on size its an adult. I have yet to decide what exactly im going to do for paint. I just wanted to print it. Its my largest project yet.

Yeah so this red dragon is either ancient or a little bigger. At first I was like oh yeah so arms and legs together. Neck and head both wings standing up and body. 5 plates no big deal. I WAS SO VERY WRONG. one PIECE of the wing was so big it took the whole plate plus it was too tall so I had to slice it off and print it separately. I'm probably gonna be over ten plates when I'm done

Alexander Bayerdorffer It could be ancient. Its a solid size. My wings had to be printed individually as theyre almost the dimension of the build plate.

Christopher Barnes well you could always measure it once she's done and figure her out

Alexander Bayerdorffer Where would I find that info? I didnt know there were official size charts.

Indeed. Typically it's based on squares of a play mat. 1 square is medium 2x2 is large etc.

Based on the base they are on

All I saw was dicks...

Kinky SOB ?

Christopher Barnes oh now that's funny. I might have to do that myself to friends of mine rofl. Will be funny to see how long it takes them to notice haha.

Just got an ender 3 for terrain, so much cheeper and can get the really large pieces done in one go

Ive only had the Photon for a few months and the desire is strong. But im only printing the terrain because a friend paid for it.

But now an ender 3 is on my desires list. Maybe later once money and space allow. I need to make more shelves in the office if I want another printer.

Christopher Barnes lol that’s basically how it was for me I had my photon for probably 6 months or so and realized I wanted an fdm too, low and behold my wife got me a bookshelf for minis and all that, and it had way more space than I needed “at the ti me” I had room in the budget to get the ender with our tax return this year and it has made me very happy so far, I’d go for it if you ever get the money and space, it’s an addiction but at least it yields mostly nice things.

Holy.... what are these dicks for ? ? ?

Valve stem caps for friends cars when they arent paying attention.

Christopher Barnes ahahaha...

Why are printing so many life sized penis?

Nelson , wait you don't know what a dick is for?

(I'm sorry... I saw the setup and as Maverick said... I saw the shot and a took it.)

Matt Shears you hit the point ,,, how about you if you designed that dick, what are you gonna use it for ?

I wonder if you used a pickle container to wash them...

You probably have the default profile, which gives strange results. Add the photon machine profile, then delete the default one.

Click settings, and it should be the first page that pops up.

Fred Bey I’m using the Anycubic Photon profile. Should I change it again?

If you changed any of the numbers in there, yes. It doesn't show the full build dimensions, but changing the numbers causes issues.

Fred Bey I did not, but I will change it again just in case. I modified the dimensions of the 3D sculpt to fit the measurements I need but I haven’t changed anything on the profile

Good luck!

Thanks!

fill in some resin, stick a old support part in it and make an full exposure

Rinse with IPA first! Then carefully push with your thumbnail from the backside against the foil.

Are you washing the right side of the glass?

I did it VERY CAREFULLY with an Xacto blade

Just put it in the frezzer 20 min

Robin Haugaas yes.

Gabriel Hadley that’ll be my last resort.

Chris Christman ? ??‍♂️ ?

Dirk Schreckenbach tried that. I had ipa sitting in it all weekend hoping it would loosen.

Dieter Bürgy that’s what I was thinking of trying next.

Ricardo Contreras haven’t heard that one before.

Chris Christman thats what i do with the buildplate in every single print they came off easy

Soaking in ipa will not soften cured resin. You need to remove it mechanically - with great care, however.

Print over it

Chris Christman - It's not glass ^^

Mike Michaels that’s what I’ve been doing haha!

Robert Hamberger I figured he meant the fep sheet. So yes I’m cleaning the right side.

Robert Hamberger I had high hopes it would lift it a little off the fep.

Push from underneath so it lifts off on the edge and then use the plastic scraper.

Ian Gill been trying that.

Chris Christman Time to replace the fep then. Just had a close look and that looks more like the fep has been overstretched in those locations. My first FEP went like that and it was damage rather than resin. I could be wrong though but I'd personally swap the FEP to save the mucking about.

I used to remove vinyl stickers from new cars so I got a bit of experience shaving this off so take with grain of salt. I place enough ipa in the vat to cover the stuck on piece then slide a single edge razor blade as flat to the fep as I can while gen tly pushing from under to raise the edge as best as you can of the stuck piece. You can do it but chances are you will cut thru the fep till you get the hang of it. So last try before you decide to just replace the fep.

Ian Gill I can feel the scraper going across it. Ya I’m getting to that point though. I have the extra that came with it.

I just print over that thin stuff...

Guitar pic and patience too

Замена пленки

Print a 0.5mm rectangle the size of the build plate. This will clean the FEP as well as any small debris left in the tray. I do this all the time if I have failed prints and do not want to remove the tray for cleaning.

ill give it a try

Craig Burrows I second this, I also leave the build plate off to avoid unwanted pressure on the screen.

Blue Tack.

I only learned about this the other day, have not tried it. If you have a Photon S you could give this a whirl.
https://youtu.be/5-Tvj0tVU4E?t=116

Print over it

Pull it off with new print

Just ip wash

Are you positive it’s resin and not a scrape in the FEP?

Push a little bit on the underside with your finger and peel it off using your other hand.

The plastic scraper that came with it

That scraper is junk and anyone who buys this printer should IMMEDIATELY throw it out and get a better one.

On the plate it is, on the FEP....

Use the plastic spatula to remove it

A lot of people will say scrap it, but try using duct tape to pull it off. Works better imo.

which photon the S has an test that will harden more resin so you can just take off a big sheet and not scratch the film

Gently with a finger nail?

Is the resin inside the vat? if it's inside, I occasionally get this to happen to mine too. I place it on the counter or table (making VERY sure the counter is perfectly clean. Then with a plastic scraper, I carefully scrape it up at a low angle. Not too much pressure, but because it is flat on the counter the scraper SHOULDN'T poke through. Just be very careful and go very slow, or you can tear it.

i just pour a lilttle more resin over it and run the screen blank without the plate then pop it off after a few layers.

gently push from the bottom

You can also just click on the "next error" arrow in Photon file validator, and then click on the "red crosshair" ... then you'll get a zoomed in view of the error where you can use left mouse to add pixels and right mouse to remove pixels.
This way you can manually fix your layers too, and sometimes is faster/easier than going back to slicer to add supports.

Xi-Sheng Luo I cycled the errors that way after using auto fix, some of my islands were so big they needed full supports or were the bottom layer of an article hence the back and forth method, the old "paint it to attach" didn't work.

You will need to cure the resin.

Also removing supports is much easier if you soak the print in hot water for a few seconds.

This will also make cutting supports much easier.


Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i......

Christopher Barnes so I used similar clippers when the supports were still flexible. What consistency am I looking for in "cured" resin I don't want to over cook it.

Alex Clarke that’s something I’m honestly not great at. I have a tendency to over cook prints by forgetting about them.

But you want to make sure it’s totally dry before curing. And once cured it should no longer be tacky.

Alex Clarke I just made a post in this group a few minutes ago. In it you will see a large bunker wall with probably 100 supports. I dipped that in hot water and was able to pull everything off by hand after a few seconds. It left minimal marking too.