• #maker+t=market
  • COSPLAY 3D 建模
  • 3D列印服務
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3

Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

原文網址 Paul Metcalfe
2020-04-01 19:38:55

Hi Folks, Is anyone familiar with installing chitubox on Mac??

Thanks,

翻譯年糕

Benjamin Fox
2020-04-01 19:47:45

I didn't notice anything special when I installed it. Drag and drop into the Applications folder like any other program.

Kevin Avery
2020-04-01 19:56:06

I had the exact same experience as Benjamin Fox

Paul Metcalfe
2020-04-01 19:56:13

Thanks, System preferences were blocking it, now sorted (i hope) cheers.

Samuel Colt
2020-04-01 20:36:53

go to your system preference to allow installation

Paul Metcalfe
2020-04-01 20:45:41

all done and working mate. Cheers.

Ben Mossing
2020-04-02 09:01:27

I have to manually allow it to run every time I start my computer.


原文網址 Nick Ahlbin
2020-04-01 19:30:43

Does pausing the print affect the quality?

翻譯年糕

Péter Vári
2020-04-01 19:32:17

well, yeah. but it also depends on the model.

Oleksandr Panforov
2020-04-01 19:32:17

It could result in the horizontal line across the model, per my experience rarely visible. On this picture I've made 4 or 5 pauses, and they're clearly visible

Oleksandr Panforov
2020-04-01 19:33:21

Oleksandr Panforov
2020-04-01 19:33:47

Damn, my prints are better, than my photos

Christopher Finlinson
2020-04-01 19:35:46

Happens all the time. Photographing the models is its whole own skill.

Nick Ahlbin
2020-04-01 19:36:07

Thanks same experience as I had

Dan Andersson
2020-04-01 19:45:43

My printer leaves a line every time i pause. I do it only if i really must.

Francisco Quesada
2020-04-01 19:47:46

Same here. It is not bad, but I still rarely do it because of that line.

Fred Bey
2020-04-01 19:52:42

You run the risk of getting a layer line when you print. Doesn't always happen, but it's a possibility.

Marc Fortin
2020-04-01 19:54:14

I try not to pause my prints. When I pause a print, it is usually after a couple layers when I'm unsure if I heard the noise of the print leaving the fep

Scott Pavlich
2020-04-01 19:56:35

It could leave a line, but if your painting the part it doesn’t matter

Jordan Baldrige
2020-04-01 20:16:05

Pausing a print should be 1 in 1,000 prints. Why are you pausing so much?

Marcin Czyszczon
2020-04-01 20:19:12

I pause every print while the supports are printing to check if the model properly attached to the build plate. I did pause coupe of times at later stage and did not really see any problems with the final print

Luke Mason
2020-04-01 20:20:39

Jordan Baldrige colour change?

Dale Storer
2020-04-01 20:20:54

Oleksandr is right. If you are pausing the print to make sure your print is on the build plate, pause it when your print it still in the ‘supports area’, that way your print isn’t affected should it shift or you get the ‘band’ on the print.

Jordan Baldrige
2020-04-01 20:34:00

Luke Mason color change mid-print is not recommended by any manufacturer.
That is “shooting from the hip”.
No professional printing company will do this, because it gives bad results.

Jordan Baldrige
2020-04-01 20:35:52

Dale Storer the right way to do it is have the correct setup that is trustworthy.
To do that it may take a failed print or 2. But it will result in a perfect print that didn’t needed paused.

Dale Storer
2020-04-01 21:26:07

Jordan, I’m just referring to the pausing if you want to check the print adhering, and the possible effects of pausing a print. I’m didn’t mention anything about supports.

Jeferson Rincon
2020-04-01 21:35:07

Es mejor no pausar para evitar el riesgo de que aparezca una línea en la impresión

Marcel Hansen
2020-04-01 21:36:33

I paused one print yesterday because I was just curious what would happen and it caused one visible Line on my print


原文網址 Erivelton Silva
2020-04-01 18:48:20

Well, after 2l of perfect prints and more than 200 perfect miniatures, I have a very big fail, mainly because I created the model. I originally used 5 base layers with 60s and 7s exposure. I'm already making another impression (I took the opportunity to check the leveling), kept the base settings, and increased the exposure to 10s, hoping everything will work out now.

翻譯年糕

Erivelton Silva
2020-04-01 23:42:37

After adjusts, victory!!!

Alex M Cruz
2020-04-02 12:30:17

nice work1

Erivelton Silva
2020-04-02 23:47:14

Thanks Alex M Cruz :-)


原文網址 James Forder
2020-04-01 17:27:03

Stuck in lockdown so finally got round to finishing my was and cure station. Started building it way before anycubic brought out theirs. Total cost so far £50

被困在封鎖中, 所以終於開始完成了我的was和治癒站. 在任何立方體拿出他們的時候就開始建造它了. 到目前為止, 總費用50英鎊.

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Brook Swartz
2020-04-01 17:29:48

what is the machine on the right?

Rob Walker
2020-04-01 17:49:06

A yogurt maker.

James Forder
2020-04-01 17:52:04

Rob Walker the wash and cure station

Rob Walker
2020-04-01 17:53:00

Kevin Piatz
2020-04-01 17:57:27

Tell us more about the machine on the right. Did you build it yourself? If so what parts were used? How well does it work? If you bought it and haven't modified it then what model is it?

James Forder
2020-04-01 18:05:44

Made it myself from the following:
12v 1.5a PC fan
Aluminum project box
12v Timer
12v PWM speed controller
20x40 aluminum extrusion
Waterproof green led strip
Waterproof UV led strip
12v Power supply
Orange, mirror acrylic sheet
Magnets
Impeller
Tub
Magnetic reed switch
Nuts, bolts, solder, wire, paint to finish

Works really well, not had any issue with cleaning uncured resin and curing. Has saved so much time manually cleaning prints.

Kevin Piatz
2020-04-01 18:44:52

Thanks for the info!

Alex Esteves
2020-04-01 21:36:47

Got a tutorial for the wash and cure?! For £50 that's awesome. Looks great too!

James Forder
2020-04-01 22:18:26

not got a tutorial but when I get chance I can take the lid off and post some pics of the inside.

Harley DeBeaudrap
2020-04-02 04:58:14

That's really cool

Alex Esteves
2020-04-02 05:51:34

that would be awesome mate. Be good to see how its done.


原文網址 Ethan Zachary
2020-04-01 15:56:22

Hey so thanks for the help earlier, everyone is so helpful here. My prints are sticking to my plate, however the supports aren't sticking to the base, I used prusa slicer to orientate and support the model and then hollowed and sliced in chitubox. The main bottom section is stuck to the buildplate but i don't see any supports and theirs half cured stuff on the FEP. This is the model i'm trying to slice at 0.05mm height, 80 s bottom exposure 8 bot layers, 8sec norm exposure and everything else standard. Am i doing something really wrong here?

翻譯年糕

Francois Lozach
2020-04-01 16:00:19

Depends on your resin... did you run any exposure test to see correct exposure? Does your level is perfect? Does the fep tension is correct? I do not use prusa for support but chitubox

Gordon Cochran
2020-04-01 16:06:43

Use a skate raft?

罗西晟
2020-04-01 16:11:58

If the bottom of the supports are sticking to the Buildplate and the supports are not built, your normal exposure is most likely too low.

If you do not want to up the exposure, you could try lowering the lift speed as that will result in slower applic ation of force of pulling the print off the FEP... (slower application equals less force in this case)
Though it is generally better to up your exposure, since at this point if you would lower the lift speed and your supports build, your model could be torn off the supports as that resin has not cured enough and therefor isn't strong enough yet.

Edit:
If you have a FLIR, check the temperature of your printer surroundings, and your resin.... Ideally your resin should be at least 20C (68Farenheit) but preferrably higher than 25C (77F)....

Aaron Strome
2020-04-01 16:16:30

you could also check your support depth and make sure it is in far enough to hold the print.

Ethan Zachary
2020-04-01 16:17:15

The supports aren't even there though all that's on the plate is the raft :/

Ethan Zachary
2020-04-01 16:17:51

Ok so i have it at 8 seconds, is there a list online of exposure times for anycubic resins? Or do i need to just test it myself for each bottle i get?

Aaron Strome
2020-04-01 16:18:57

yeah then i would work on your normal exposure. have you used the chart as a starting point.. https://docs.google.com/....../1crvzMnt....../htmlview......

Aaron Strome
2020-04-01 16:20:47

you can only use this as a starting point as there are many variables that come into play for even print let alone every resin..

Ethan Zachary
2020-04-01 16:22:18

Aaron Strome Ok cool thanks, yea it's weird, i printed a chaos warrior like just last night and came out nearly perfectly with 30 sec bot layer and way less exposure, i don't get why suddenly its not happy. I'll try more exposure time.

Aaron Strome
2020-04-01 16:23:34

yeah like i said a lot of variables including shaking it enough, waiting for bubbles to clear.

Daniel Rønning
2020-04-01 16:39:25

Considered using a raft?

罗西晟
2020-04-01 16:50:16

Ethan Zachary each bottle can be different.
There is a big reference sheet out there, but that does not account for the UV-LED strength/quality of YOUR printer...
Each color definately is different.
In example:
Anycubic Translucent Green is (much) easier to print than Anycubic Black.

(for me the Green prints on 6 seconds,
I mixed black and white and need 8 seconds already for my custom "grey"... and that is borderline as I've seen some of my prints just barely succeed/fail due to under-exposure. )

Ethan Zachary
2020-04-01 16:54:15

Xi-Sheng Luo So i've gotten pretty good at diagnosing FDM failure, but is there a way to tell what's failing with my resin? Like what shows its underexposure rather than say a levelling issue?

罗西晟
2020-04-01 17:56:09

Leveling issues are shown with the print not sticking to your buildplate.

However that sometimes is also partially underexposure of the base layers but then we are talking about baselayer exposures under 30seconds...

You need something solid to pull the print off the FEP.
Delamination/support breakage is due to the force needed to pull layer off the FEP exceeded what the layers could handle.
That is orientation to reduce force or higher curetimes to increase strengths or lower peel speed.

Since your print failed at the thick part of the support, the force was too high for a simple "dot" to adhere to the base layer.

Orientation is not a factor on a "dot", it is on surfaces that run parallel to FEP, as it sticks to more FEP surface.

So then there is curetime and peel speed left.

If you lower your peel speed now, you might have breakage at the tips of your support.

When do you change your peel speed then: when you go into extreme thin layers and/or fine detail, as higher curetimes also mean that your cured layer expands a fraction more, resulting in fine detail loss.

But you would first need to have a successful print which you then can measure/check for loss of detail/expansion etc.

Ethan Zachary
2020-04-01 18:21:46

Xi-Sheng Luo Can you have levelling issues between two prints within an hour of each other? I had a print stick to the plate, then changed exposure to 12 seconds and then suddenly nothing sticks.

Nikola Pijanac
2020-04-01 19:17:12

use a raft and that will eliminate your issues

罗西晟
2020-04-01 20:32:51

Ethan Zachary yes, that's possible,

you've held the plate wrong and torqued it a little when taking print off and ruined your levelling

but usually it means you might have some resin in the ball joint and you want to disassemble that and clean the ball, slightly sand the top while you have it open to give the screw that pushes down a bit more grip.

But there is a difference between "nothing" sticking to the plate and only the base of your supports sticking to the plate.

Dante Domínguez
2020-04-02 00:26:36

I only use manual orientation and auto support in chitubox. And check for islands in the file validator, and I've had no issues since I was told I had to reduce surface tension (I didn't do it before).
My only recurring problem is exposure for new resins...

Ethan Zachary
2020-04-02 07:55:23

Xi-Sheng Luo Yea it went from the base sticking, to suddenly nothing between prints, even after i increased the exposure time, and theres nothing stuck on the FEP either, I'll disassemble the ball joint and try to clean it. Do you have any good videos you would recommend? Or just google it and any work well? Also Do you know why i can't do the flint read method? The arm wont phyically lower enough, keeps hitting the vat edge

Charles Davenport
2020-04-02 08:42:16

Go with the auto supports which includes a raft. Add manual supports as needed.

Ethan Zachary
2020-04-02 08:44:27

I just checked the bloody LCD this morning and it was just idk, lighting up the whole thing? Even when doing the exposure tests in the machine. So i flashed the firmware back on then it fixed itself. Just re levelled so will try to print again. Yea i just reset all my supports etc and orientated hollowed with holes then let the auto support handle it. we'll see how we go !

Charles Davenport
2020-04-02 08:46:36

Ethan Zachary Oh, I feel your pain. My Photon is down because the LCD broke away from the machine because resin leaked through the resin tank and glued itself to the LCD. And, that is just one in a long string of sad litanies. I'm going to spring for a new machine that's more reliable.

Ethan Zachary
2020-04-02 08:52:43

Charles Davenport Man this is such a different process than FDM and the learning curve is huge XD usually the worst you get with my ender 3 if i fuck up is a scratched bed. Here it can flood your system, starting a toxic fire. I mean comeon man haha. Btw one of my D&D players character has the same name as you, he wanted the poshest and most upper class name he could think of XD (i mean that as a compliment, as awkward as it sounded)

Charles Davenport
2020-04-02 08:54:24

Thank you! And I agree about the learning curve. I have a Zortrax 200, actually two of them, just humming away on several different projects. I guess we just have to tolerate the pain in order to get the details FDM just cannot do.

Adrian Sutherland
2020-04-02 14:06:40

If your base is adhering to the plate but your supports are not adhering to the base, that sounds like an exposure issue. Did you run an exposure test? Personally I've found 8 sec it's not enough exposure. Mine runs at 10 seconds for .02 and 12 second s for .05 for most of my resins (this varies depending on the temperature of the room).

Which is another thing to consider. Is the room your printer is in too cold? Optimal is between 21 and 25 degrees celcius.


原文網址 Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-01 15:19:01

Question, I replaced my fep yesterday, but how do i know if it's too tight or too loose?

I heard you can tune it to a certain frequency, but from the YT vids I've seen, there's no consensus about which frequency that should be.

Help appreciated.

翻譯年糕

Marcel Hansen
2020-04-01 15:22:12

I've had the same question, I changed my FEP for the first time and did it after the instructions on the packaging..after that I saw a video from anycubic where they put a PET bottle capunder it before tightening. I did without the cap and it is just a bit tighter and I havent had any print fails, so I guess its fine

Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-01 15:24:33

Marcel Hansen yeah, i use the cap method is well.. But it provides no answer as to where exactly i stop tightening the screws..

Sure, they say the iron ring needs to be lower than the border, but some of the screws still feel kinda loose when I get that far, so i tighten them a bit more.. Which may be too much, i don't know.

Marcel Hansen
2020-04-01 15:25:44

the only thing I noticed is that the Plopp sound is just a bit more quieter, so far I only had succesful prints so I guess I did it correctly

Alastair Graham
2020-04-01 15:26:13

~300Hz, give or take. I use the “Spectrum” tuning app

Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-01 15:28:13

Alastair Graham okay, mine is definitely too tight then, i got 400 ?

It's printing currently, we'll see how it comes out but i'll be loosening it a bit

Richard Humble
2020-04-01 16:02:04

Use a bottle cap and ignore it.

Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-01 16:04:55

Richard Humble i do use one, but it doesn't affect the final tension when tightening the plate to the vat..

Richard Humble
2020-04-01 16:10:51

Lorenz Nijs do it up until the bolts stop. As per the instructions. The FEP stretches anyway (see your old FEP) so it's a waste of time.

Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-01 16:11:51

Richard Humble alright, thanks

Dale Storer
2020-04-01 20:28:48

Lorenz Nijs I just use the bottle cap and tighten the screws till they stop, then a little (1/8th?) more so they won’t come loose from vibration. Remember that vat is Aluminum, the vat Threads will Fall before the steel screws. The ‘cap’ provides enoug h slack for the FEP to tighten when you’re screwing the frame to the vat. I don’t know anything about ‘tuning’ it like a drum, but it should sound like a Remo drum when done.

Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-01 20:35:14

Dale Storer yeah, that's pretty much how mine sounds. Print is doing okay so far so i think i'm good. And if it fails it won't be from the fep being too tight at this point.

Neil Ramsay
2020-04-01 23:04:41

350Hz is 'round about' the pitch. A little higher and a little lower won't make a significant difference. But too much higher and you may tear things more easily. Too much lower and it won't be tight enough.

Kyle McPherson
2020-04-02 00:55:48

Jonathan Basseri
2020-04-02 11:18:32

It seems like a lot of people here are getting success with only the bottle cap.

One thought I've had about the smaller vat of the Photon Zero. A smaller vat, similar to a smaller drum, should have a different frequency when tuned correctly.

Richard Humble
2020-04-02 14:15:26

problem with tuning is that the FEP stretches, look at an old FEP -its baggy.

Thomas Holm
2020-04-03 02:29:22

Used the bottle cap and a spectrum analyzer. Prints come out fine again.

Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-03 02:30:42

yeah, I went that route in the end as well. I'd rather stick to something that's measurable for a starting point than to just fasten it nilly willy.

Might not be needed, but it just makes me feel safer and that's worth it.

Thomas Holm
2020-04-03 02:53:58

Engineer by training. Know that feeling.

Richard Humble
2020-04-03 03:09:10

Thomas Holm chartered engineer here... I use the bottle cap and no tuning as the FEP stretches so your tune is lost almost immediately.

Fine for >1 year and probably about a dozen FEP changes.

Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-03 03:10:37

Richard Humble it's not necessarily about keeping the tune anyways, it's about knowing that if you reach a certain tune you've got it tightened good enough.

I don't care if it loses the tune after one print, I just want to know I'm safe when I start.

Richard Humble
2020-04-03 03:16:21

Lorenz Nijs what is your start position defined by though? The bottle cap gives a good enough start in my experience.

I've yet to see someone explain how FEP tension makes any real difference. It will function on a huge range of frequencies.

Lorenz Nijs
2020-04-03 03:23:21

Richard Humble come on man, is it that hard to understand some people just want to have something quantifiable to go off of instead of just doing something random?

Besides, the bottle cap doesn't have any effect on final tightness once you secure the ring to the vat, so I don't know why you bring it up? In no way does the bottle cap dictate how tight I turn the screws (and how tight the fep gets) once I attach the ring to the vat, so...


原文網址 Jacob Stone
2020-04-01 13:53:04

So my FEP is warped and Amazon has shipping for them set to end of April. Any online vendors you suggest?

翻譯年糕

Michael Gorman
2020-04-01 13:56:27

If it's in stock most amazon stuff ships in A week. The estimates are their worst case if they need to reprioritize your order lower for the necessities.

Andrew Klein
2020-04-01 21:13:32

Exactly what Michael said. If it is not sold by Amazon and is not in their critical items list, it will be last thing packed. Most will be shipped Saturday through Monday mornings before the critical inundate the warehouse workers.

This came straight from call center. I tried to get them to ship a part for Nurse Practicioner working call center from home.

Jeff Greenfield
2020-04-02 00:06:33

I’ve been ordering some home stuff, outlets, shelves, a greenhouse etc. Amazon said 15 days delivery on most items, being delivered today, two days after ordering.

Rob Mayberry
2020-04-02 01:18:13

I ordered resin said 21 days got it in 4


原文網址 Bruno Shepard
2020-04-01 13:33:47

My new settings, going for my third test print! I hope to get it right this time! Followed your instructions, wish me luck!

翻譯年糕

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 13:36:37

DO NOT PRINT LIKE THIS

PRINT IN AN ANGLE ON SLA/DLP

Rigo Arevalo
2020-04-01 13:37:49

Print the castle directly on the bed, it needs ZERO supports it’s designed that way

Jolene Sweeney
2020-04-01 13:45:38

Rigo Arevalo I feel like support less models are only designed for FDM. It's hard to remove items from the bed when they are flat... I would rather tilt about 15⁰ and use supports so I can I can get it off the bed undamaged...

Sean O'Hayer
2020-04-01 13:46:08

As others have said, if you're going to print it flat (aka parallel to the build plate) then lose the supports.

Otherwise angle it, and then support it.

John Chrapkowski
2020-04-01 13:54:38

I do this all the time. Enough supports your fine

John Chrapkowski
2020-04-01 13:54:57

But only under it so you can hollow and drain holes

John Chrapkowski
2020-04-01 13:55:29

if it’s hard to get off your base layers time might be too high.

罗西晟
2020-04-01 13:59:51

Chances are the cube will fail in some way.
From the screenshot I can already tell the corners are prone to bending as the supports do not run right up to the edge.
That is if it will not break off the supports at all as it's just a full parallel to the FEP.

Rigo Arevalo
2020-04-01 14:03:44

If you’re really going to print it *that* small, you really have not being to worry about

Rigo Arevalo
2020-04-01 14:04:50

I actually started using a single edge razor to remove smaller prints and it’s been a dream ?

Bruno Shepard
2020-04-01 14:16:04

Like this?

Bruno Shepard
2020-04-01 14:17:14

Why do i have to angle certain models? Any specific reason?

Bruno Shepard
2020-04-01 14:20:36

I'm starting small, my frist try was a huge print. I will start small, i need to test the printer asap.

Francois Lozach
2020-04-01 14:22:46

support the castle like all model printed on photon ... castle print very well supported like you did

Francois Lozach
2020-04-01 14:23:19

but hollow it and put some holes

Bruno Shepard
2020-04-01 14:26:55

Francois Lozach what about printing it without supports?

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 14:31:10

Hi, i actually have time to reply properly now.

The reason we angle prints on resin printers are multiple, but the main reason is to combat suction forces. Any surface area that is parallel to the buildplate, such as the cube will have a high chance of being warped the suction force when the printer peels off a new layer from the printbed.

Additonally, many prints will have their surface area per layer be reduced if we angle them. You will eventually encounter a print that just won't stick to the buildplate until you tilt it.

Ideally, the area of each successive print layer is lower than the surface area of the initial layers.

Bruno Shepard
2020-04-01 14:32:25

Mourni Tenchou My prints were getting stuck to to the vat. but it would also only print the first few layers

Bruno Shepard
2020-04-01 14:32:43

So should i tilt the cube as well?

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 14:32:54

Agreed. I'd also never again a model flat into the buildplate. last time i did many months ago I ened up scratching my buidplate since i had to resort to a metal tool to remove it.

Also, if you print something hollow onto the buildplate, chances are you will break the print when attempting to remove it.

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 14:36:22

You would need to angle a print like the cube to ensure it prints well. You will also have to oversupport it at the bottom, and it will either fail due to suction, get warped, or you end up with lots of blemishes from the support along a flat surface w here they are easily visible.

If you print it like it is now, it will definitely get stretched a tiny bit along the z axis. If you are looking for exact prints for prototyping consider z axis stretching on the photon. (its really minor)

If you angle the xyz cube for testing though, it would kinda defeat the purpose. There are a few test and validation prints also for dimensional accuracy on the photonsters github.

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 14:37:21

Exactly.
The fully parallel structure increase the suction force big time.

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 14:39:15

In resin printing you have the following things to consider for preparing your prints, among others.


I need to support all islands when looking at it from below.
Ideally, each later layer has a smaller surface area than my base layers.
Print time depends on the height of the print. Angling prints can reduce printtime.

Bruno Shepard
2020-04-01 14:39:18

Mourni Tenchou so should i print the cube as it is?

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 14:41:23

Unconnected islands.

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 14:42:25

Notice the ring and the dot not connecting, as the layer they are both printed at doesn't conect them. Support is necessary or it prints into the air and fails.

Palcu Alex
2020-04-01 14:46:20

I've printed this and it worked out great. I just tilt it a bit on the back, supports only on the bottom and on islands, It's not hollowed.If you want, send me a message and I will send you the file that I have used. I don't know how much you can tell from the printscreen..

Sean O'Hayer
2020-04-01 14:51:01

Bruno Shepard resin printers don't print flat surfaces the way FDM printers so. Even with a ton of support, the bottom will look melted because the resin is dripping/drooping while the exposure light is curing.

When you put an angle towards the build plate, you minimize how much is being cured l initially, then each layer builds on that.

Nikola Pijanac
2020-04-01 14:52:20

I've been printing models for the last 2 years and have never had to angle a single print. If your build platform and settings are right your prints will come out ok.

Nikola Pijanac
2020-04-01 14:54:25

The issue with angled prints is more points to clean. You get more anchors than is practically needed. More cleaning and clipping to do in the end.

Mourni Tenchou
2020-04-01 15:26:59

Your prints getting stuck to the vat is definitely a sign of later layers being too large in surface area. You should also learn how to hollow prints. A hollowed prints typically won't have anyproblems with suction anymore as hollowinf reduces large layers by up to 90 percent. You can find hollowinf tutorials online. Don't forget to out holes. You don't wanna have uncured resin inside smth that can break.

Kerry Emery
2020-04-01 15:55:00

Also if it's a test print still why not just do the cube, I did it with no supports, my latest print are these

Kerry Emery
2020-04-01 15:55:32

Kerry Emery
2020-04-01 15:55:47

Kerry Emery
2020-04-01 15:56:12

And it's only my third print total on resin printer


原文網址 Jeff Bukowski
2020-04-01 12:46:07

So as I was just updating the firmware on my Photon S the power had a brief outage long enough for the printer to shut off and now it wont turn on. Any thoughts?

翻譯年糕

罗西晟
2020-04-01 14:07:33

Contact your reseller, chances are the boot-chip is wiped and you now have a paper-press...

Jeff Bukowski
2020-04-01 14:08:35

In my case if I ordered it through amazon just go through that channel?

罗西晟
2020-04-01 14:13:49

(Edit: If you are sure the power adapter is receiving power from wall-outlet and actually providing power to the photon)

From who ever you ordered....
Seems to me like pretty standard...

You did something and broke the machine while doing it, you can ask for a repair...

For devices that (can) receive a firmware update, from users, they (the product designers) really should make the firmware chip modular/interchangeable... as there are so many things that can go wrong with a firmware update leaving the user with a brick....

Then again, a lot of companies will throw it on user-error/misuse and will not cover this under warranty and charge you for fixing it.

If you have the knowledge/skills and tools you might be able to JTAG flash the FPGA.


原文網址 Victor Huo
2020-04-01 12:01:33

Hey guys just a quick question to how i can fix this issue where the object doesnt bind to the support, ive printed the file before and it was fine but now its failing. Recalibrated Z and cleaned vat

翻譯年糕

Evan Rosario
2020-04-01 12:39:42

Up your exposure in my experience

Victor Huo
2020-04-01 12:50:30

Yea i switched to the eco resin for these prints and thats when it started failing.I started a new print and i have uped the exposure on the new test run

Chris Moody
2020-04-01 17:15:43

Victor Huo which exposure time did you use?

Victor Huo
2020-04-01 17:49:36

Chris Moody i used 8 sec, and then i uped it to 14 which overexposed it

Chris Moody
2020-04-01 17:50:50

Victor Huo oh dang! Im using 12 and its going alright

Victor Huo
2020-04-01 19:05:39

Chris Moody im just about to try 12, 11 failed for me. idk why the supports come out fine but the objects fails to adhere to the supports


 

討論主題

發文排行榜

回文排行榜

熱門關鍵字