Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

UV light source, IPA or some other cleaner, and a decent way of getting prints off the plate, Nitrile gloves and a mask

This above! As well as a good source of fume extraction. I'd suggest an inline fan and a carbon filter :) your body will Defo thank you later

Thanks very much.

Fizzy FizzleMack it will be in a workshop which is pretty much a garage so is pretty cold or would that not be enough of an extractor?

I'm in the UK and went for these bits.

Plenty of kitchen roll, long bladed craft knife, modelling files, sandpaper, filler, primer, paints and bucket loads of patience.

I wouldn't risk it bud. First try a print in the garage. Post printing if you can smell the resin. Then I'd suggest the above what I've mentioned pal. Rather be safe than sorry dude ??

I picked up the 24w (dual) uv led strips to cure stuff, then attached them around a cooking pot from wilko.

Works a treat

Stuart Johnson any chance you can link the UV led strip?

Fizzy FizzleMack you in the uk?

LightingWill 24 Watts UV Black... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07X5ZPFZ5......

I was dubious it would do the job, until I fired them up and it worked a treat :)

Stuart Johnson yep

Stuart Johnson sorry you were asking fizzy. ?

Aye ;)

Daniel Weatherhead I've got mine in me room, using the Anycubic Basic Grey, without all that gubbins and I've not noted it to be particularly smelly or noxious but I AM a smoker so that may be a factor.

I found the nastiest bit of it is the cleaning a fter the print. I'm using Meth's for the Basic Clean followed by the IPA and that lot stinks to high heaven.

Also, if your garage is too cold the Resin may not be as 'responsive' or as 'fluid' as is required. (Couldn't think of better words) Might be worth investing in a heater for that area.

Neal Conway Thanks a lot. Very useful.

The most basic thing you'll need is isopropyl alcohol or something to clean your prints off when they're done. As far as not enough Sunshine it doesn't really take very much. I set my prints on the windowsill and even on a cloudy day they still cure. T hat will at least get you started printing. Eventually you'll probably want to get more rubber gloves and paint filters. But basically with just some alcohol to clean your prints off when you're done you can get started printing. UV curing stations, fume extraction and all of that stuff are kind of optional and whatever you prefer on that. I live in a tiny home so the best spot for my printer was behind the toilet on a Shelf. I don't hardly notice any smell from it at all unless I'm sitting right there next to it watching it.

Haha not a problem Dan and yes I and from the UK Stuart. Cheers for the link dude ??

Awesome

Very nice!

That is amazing, I hope you post finished pictures of it painted

Those guys are going to get so much of my money soon... need the terrasque, this, the umber hulk, beholder, giant spider... they make such awesome minis!

Michael Hockenbarger I just subbed last night. My first Demon King printed on the overnight. Ran out of Resin /sadface, so the build wasn't perfect, but it was definitely good enough for me. My dwarves need a baddie to fight.

Michael Hockenbarger join the patreon and get the discount code ? the big boss me Del's come around every quarter but there's some regular monthly models worth more than the monthly cost itself.

Jon Hammersley I got Artist Guild mixed up with Titan forge. I sub to both. Whoops

Jon Hammersley how much is the discount? I don’t mind paying full price for something I want, but maybe if it is worth it, I’d consider getting a patreon account. To be honest though, I don’t even have my printer yet. Saving up now, doing the research and educating myself, practicing supports and slicing, and all that.

Michael Hockenbarger 30% off for the first 10days of each month.

Michael Hockenbarger some select items up to 60% (i.e. demon king this month)

Mine just finished up last night. I can't wait to get him painted. Any issues with assembly?

Leonard Simpson a sizeable gap between lower torso and tail (underneath so no visible). Other than that, no big issues at all

Awesome to hear. Im putting mine together this weekend and wanted to see if there were any gotchas.

Leonard Simpson the scales do an amazing job of hiding them. If you have people turning it upside down and doing a thorough inspection they'd see them but it's hard to otherwise

what did you print it on?

Michael A Miller an Anycubic Photon for the dragon and an Ender 5 for the base.

Printing this for a friend right now!

Podrían compartir el stl por favor

Oscar Andres https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-delani......

Scrape with an old credit card or something similar, if you slip you dont risk scratching the class like a metal object

A plastic scraper tool?

Liam Newman I couldnt gr it off

IPA and fingernails is what I used to get it off mine last time that happened. Takes a while, but didn't damage my screen.

Ah well that's now good, you'll have to use something metal like a single razor blade or very carefully with a metal scraper, if you feel your about to damage it then stop immediately

razor blade

Liam Newman ok

Wet it down with ipa and use a razor

Rob Mayberry I got it

Razor has already been suggested but I have to emphasize: please be very careful

I just used ipa, my thumbnail and about an hour and a half of my life. ?

45 degrees

That is what she said.

I use a razor

Iso, very thin metal blade, paitence. Just did this this morning

Poked a hole in my FEP this week, used alcohol and a razor… Boom! Done.

Why this happens?

Credit card

Ryan Tudor plastic* razor

Colton Wilkins I use metal. Works great

Lance Draper me too ?

Ryan Tudor just thinking about scratches

Over exposure??

John Hicks most definitely, I have been having issues so ramped it up.. I'm happy with it though

Luke,maybe try the previous exposure setting and lower the lift speed..if peel and adherence were why you changed ?

Merv Hinton I will change gradually. I haven't printed since last summer, re leveled before I did this print. Lift speed is a good idea

I’d definitely lower your regular exposure: ONLY the base exposure does anything to help adhesion to the plate...raising bottom exposure, lift speed, and cleaning or even scuffing the plate are all things to help it stick.

https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

Absolutely Luke,one bit at a time..so you know what worked.. Granny / Eggs / Suck / Apologies but never hurts to tick the list..

Whack it in a bottle, leave it for a week or so for the resin to settle and then leave it outside with the lid off until the resin has hardened and the IPA evaporated. Then I just bin the bottle.

Cool, thanks. Had actually considered that, nice to have confirmation.

Or cure the resin with an UV light, let it settle and reuse the IPA?

Or leave it in the sun for the two days we get

I just let it evaporate

I actually tried that first and it wasn't very successful. Mind, I'm using one of those Nail-Cure UV Lamps so mayn't be good enough through liquid . . .

let it sit in a window sil, or put it outside.

I am using a 20W UV lamp, works just fine.

Brian Barnhart Mine just turns into a nasty white gelatinous mess.

John Driggers Thats OK, you just filter it and dump the stuff thats solid

John Driggers That's exactly what mine did, tried filtering it like Mr. Barnhart said, using the Anycubic Filters, but the crap went straight through . . .

Or just let it sit and its going to settle, remove IPA from top, I am using coffee ffilters for smaller amounts

Waaagh

Purge the ravening xenos hordes.

Try a plastic blade to scrape it. I have a similar issue that occurs on my other printer a d the only way I've found to remove resin from a screen is with a blade, but a metal one will scratch up the screen.

Daniel Kelly thanks, where would I get one of those?

Jim Appleby honestly not taking the piss when i say this......print one? lol

I have the same issue, I´m very carefull too, I don´t know how it can happend xD

The plastic sucks. I tried to clean it with ipa and now it's ruined... Don't clean it with ipa ?

Angelus Mew Ellis as a ”noob” I would have to rely on an existing stl...have not mastered creativity yet however I do not imagine it could be that difficult ?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225993

that looks like it will do the job, its for car ice so might need resizing but should be ok :)

Angelus Mew Ellis thanks!

you bodged it you'll need to buy a new printer.
(or replacement panels if you want to save money.)

Just leave it, they're only windows

The only reason I could thing to replace them would be so you could see how your print is doing but even that's not a good enough reason to care

If it bugs you that much, a local (or online) plastics supplier should be able to laser-cut you a replacement sheet of acrylic?

Nathan Madche exactly! If you desperately need to see your print halfway through, just open the door?

Razor blade scraper may do it

It blocks more light getting in that way!

They're so cheap it's not even worth trying to print it. Just search Amazon for plastic blade scraper. I use them for removing prints off the build plate and they're great for it!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/....../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Q5kCE
bCP52D74

Angelus Mew Ellis the thing I'm talking about is like a plastic razor blade rather than an ice scraper. Come to think it it'll probably do an awesome Job of getting ice off too!

Masking tape the plastic cover and spray the window black, then spray varnish if you want to make it Sci fi and shiny. Also blocks light properly. Don't trust the little yellow plastic windows if your print is sitting finished for a long time

Do not use acetone... I did and it makes the window cloudy.

Anyone has idea where to get photon s spare wondows... mine are ruined aswell...

Buy a new sheet at your local hardware store, cut it to size and drill the holes, paint it black, install.

Remove window, soak in ipa

Use Ipa and a razor blade to carefully clean it. It will take a while, take your time. Do a little everyday.

As long as it still blocks light there's no real issue

I'd just leave it. If you find it unsightly, cover it over with some stickers or contact paper.

Cody Ray Pierce wont work on the S. Windows are snap in custom made. Totally different than the OG.

I can draw die lines and upload them this evening for laser cutting. I could make them for anybody who would like feel free to pm me. I dont have the colored acrylic so i’d need some time to get it. Just pay the cost of acrylic and shipping.

Ben Knipper

Use a razor blade

Paint it black or live with your mistake

If it hardened, the plastic cover is not very effective at stopping the UV.

Had the same thing happen, I removed the plexiglass and soke it in denatured alcohol over night then a hard scrub. Came off

Leave it. It looks like it came from the Fallout world.

My question is why wouldn't you wipe it off immediately?

Because I was an idiot and as I was getting my first print out is when I first noticed but was more interested in following a process for cleaning and curing it. Only decided to wipe it clean when it was way too late. oh well if this is the worst....

I managed to recover mine by sanding with 1500 grit paper and then polishing with Kaol. The resin is too harsh for some plastic and plexiglass. It is not a matter of cleaning, unfortunately.

razor blade

Ben Knipper You hot a laser? I’ve got a couple projects I wanted to do in acrylic...how thick can you cut?

Scott Pavlich yep, My bigger one can cut 1.0” thickness

your model puked inside the printer. Covid-19?

Ben Knipper This would be 3/16 or 1/4 max

Scott Pavlich yea thats no problem.

Yes, I think I tried to give it too much in the Vat first time around. Just glad that no real harm done; just embarrassed

Jim Appleby We have all done it

That looks like you didn't get the diaper on quick enough

I had to use goof off to clean mine.

Order replacement glass from Anycubic.

Not to be rude but how did you make that much of a mess??

I think I overfilled the vat; also it became worse as I attempted many different methods to clean it. In short as a noob I was a "dumbass"! Good news is I am much better now; what a difference a week can make

Jim Appleby this hobby is a constant learning process.

if it makes you feel better the first time I printed something with the photon i dropped the plate corner down onto the LCD and fep sheet and resin started leaking all over my new printer bc I have the fine motor skills of an infant.

fantastic feedback and support from the various forums is what makes this hobby great!

Vincent Clayton I cannot even create a ticket. I am referred to their support page; it assumes I purchased from Amazon. I purchased from the Anycubic-official seller on eBay and without an Amazon invoice number my request can not be submitted. Glad I don't have a real issue!

Jim Appleby sorry ?

Take the screen out and get as much off with IPA as possible, don't use a blade to scrape it off or you will scratch the plastic. Use rubbing compound first over the whole screen to get all the resin off, it will now be cloudy. Use t-cut to get rid of it being cloudy then use polish and make it shiny again.

it depends on the printer settings you will use.

Roger Munguia this is what i am using

these is the tilting you need to do depending on the z microns

I print mine upright. Also depends how many you want to print at a time. If you angle it you will only get two or three coins

Roger Munguia so i need to put it at an angle? that is better?

I would print it flat

i only need one, but i will print 2 or 3 just to safe

unless there are details on both sides

Allison Janssens there are no significant details. Flat on the build plate? r flat with supports?

Charalambos Charalambous yup

Charalambos Charalambous if you print directly on the build plate, the side in contact with the plate has to be perfectly flat, you can have details on the other side.

Charalambos Charalambous and the side on the build plate will have the texture of the build plate inprited on it, so you'll have to sand afterwards to get a nice smooth surface.

Charalambos Charalambous If you want to support the item, then print it at an angle, not flat.

Charalambos Charalambous print one upright then angle the other see which one is better and print at the same time. Two birds one stone

I printed dozens of coins (23mm diameter, 2mm thick). Flat on the build plate, no supports.. 8 coins in 15 minutes, my FDM printers are envious! 8)

It CAN affect the details... it comes down to what you are printing. I like to keep mine at 4x to have a compromise between possible detail loss and smoothing.

Michael Pescuma thanks ?

Looks like Anycubic translucent green resin?
What are your cure-times and peel speed settings?

Compared to your settings btw,
I run with 0.4 support head diameter and penetration.

Default Anycubic Photon resin curing settings, only upped base layer exposure to 60 seconds.
No issues for me with Prusa Autosupport.

So the 2 things that seem to go wrong seems to be curing and or support head diameter/penetration.

The lower your Support diameter/penetration the more supports you will need...
If you look at 3dPrintingPro's videos, he does it manually with 0.12, but he OVER supports (as in more than 100%) to support details, and uses a higher penetration/diameter to keep the model to the buildplate.

Your settings now just makes all "Light" supports so you will need more to hold...

Edit:
I print on 28-32mm scale, and after print, I wash my prints, and throw them in a bowl hot water (tap warm) for ~15 seconds, and then remove the supports with no damage... (or so little, it will get lost when I basecoat the models). After removing supports then I cure....

Think for a fast answer. I use anycubiuc translucent green, 8 bottom layers with 60sec exp, rest of layers 8sec exp and 3 sec off time. And the model from Prusa autosport was my first failure from a long time. Ok, so you suggest changing 0.4 head dia meter and penetration. What minimal point distance and support density you use? I was afraid that 0.4 head will have problems with getting off-model without scaring. Do you have a problem with support scaring a model?

Piotr Kuśmierski This is what I use. (room temperature ~18C )
Slight variations in settings for your personal situation may be required.

For as far as scarring, none / near to not visible for me on this scale.

Oops sorry, seems double pasted the pad settings and Support settings were lost.

It worked ;-)