Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Now if they’d just send me my replacement X axis switch like they said they would months ago i’d be impressed. ?

I received my Photon today... told my wife the printer paid itself because there is a pair of gloves and a few masks in it.

She agreed!!!

is this shipping available in oman??

For following.

I want to see results

me too

plz update as soon as you see something

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I did this (including the deliberate undermixing) the other day using ink - it works really nicely:

following

this sounds interesting

Beautiful colour, people who have done this before, does it not affect exposure? Ive seen mixed comments on it? Keen to see results :D thanks for the contribution

Does it stain the clear portion of the vat?

wouldn't have thought so as it's the same type of pigment in coloured resins

Oh, very interesting ??

I've put it as a bit higher than for clear so fingers crossed it works out ok

Awesome, hope it works out :) keep us posted

Will do

Oooo intrested in thr results of this

Amazing colour!
Which pigment did you use?
Could you please post the results here too?

It was half that price when I bought it though

Wow very nice. Cant wait to see the results

That’s the same pigment I been using (but gold) the bummer is the build plate repeatedly lifting mixes it in all the way so I couldn’t get a variations but the color works great...but man you should see the shimmer of this one in the sun.

I mix all the time with anycubic clear and pigments, 5% more curing time with every drop.

? Seems very cool

George Bulte from distance it looks like J. Pollock creation

That looks great! what brand and volume of pigments did you use?

Right?! Frame this pic and sell it for a couple million ?

Daler Rowney Acrylic Ink (Marine Blue) - I only needed about 3 or 4 drops, less is definitely more with ink.

Just remeber about the person who discovered the potential! (Few bottles of IPA might close the case ? )

Following.

Ooo

let us now

following ?

Woww what pigmento?

Shown further up the comments

Does anyone know if you can add mica powder in instead of liquid pigment? I have lots of powders from making river tables

Can some layout the exact type of pigment colors that can be used which clear resin and step by step for this newbie????

I haven't seen these before, but I'll have to give it a try. I read somewhere about using alcohol inks to change the color and successfully changed Anycubic Grey's color with turquoise alcohol ink. Came out without a hitch.

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I have no idea what those are, but I love them.

looking forward to your print

Edward Hill The figure is a small scale Masters of the Universe action vinyl from a company called The Loyal Subjects(TLS). They don't do any of the vehicles, though, so my buddy and I are making some. This is our first one. It's modelled after the cartoon.

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It ain't gonna work. Only the first layers will have odd coloration. Then it will have mixed itself by the up and down motion and boom everything will be a solid color.

Kyle I would be careful with this. But if you pre mix it very very very very, I mean insanely, well it should work. But don't take my word for it.

Kyle Tennant it works, but the powder tends to settle over time. This was done with silver mica in Siraya Smokey Black. It’s quite striking but damned hard to photograph.

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Yeah , is it finish ?

following

Will the coloring affect the fep? Stain it?

John Driggers I love it.. once I get my printer to read my usb I'll have to experiment haha

Well sort of worked, would have been a bigger success if it didn't run out of resin

not true

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What ink was used? You have a link please? I have 3.5ltrs of clear and I'd love to make my own colours

It's doubled in price since I bought it

Well I do it all the time. Fill up resin throw in a few drops pigment. First few layers have odd coloration. Rest is just a solid color

Neil Forster told ya it was gonna be a more or less solid color.

There is some variations in there some is due to the thickness of the material but some is due to there being less pigment. I learn more by trying things out, if I did it again I would probably find a way to drip either colour, clear or other resins in slowly in different parts of the vat

Neil if you want to change color you have to fill upp with one color and then when it's almost empty fill with the next color. And so on. But that means you have to sit there and keep it under observation all the time ?

Oooo pretty!

I’ve been slowing mixing in clear with the last of my grey and my prints are slowly turning clear lol

I did this last night with white pearl pigment. I’d love to see the purple as I have one that looks similar

Neil Forster tem link?

You can use alcohol ink. Just break open a Sharpie (or buy a cheap variation, same ink)

Oh!!! I’m a be following this post!

Interesting. I have been wanting to try that too

I love dying my resin. I only buy clear, gray and white. Cheaper that way too!

Amazing idea

Going to have to try this! Might really help seeing as clear always seems to yellow abit for me even before it's done printing

That looks fantastic!

Zäta Doe Isn't it a good idea to just mix everything thoroughly before putting it in the vat?

John Ellis it's a brilliant idea. But I'm just lazy as flark ?

? ?

Biggest issue will be that the pigments settle after some time and block the UV light... ?

not really. The up and down motion will just mix it all together

Zäta Doe Nope...did you test it already like I did?

Dirk yep. I do it all the time. I always mix my white with pigments. Never had it settle in the bottom during print. And I always mix the resin in the vat before I start a new print. So yeah, never had that problem

That use pigment

Used pigment

All used pigment

I've started playing with pigment in my resin too. How do you remove the supports without leaving marks? I'd usually sand it down and either paint it or clear coat for clear resin. But I'd like the keep the plastic finish on some and sanding destroys that!

Zäta Doe Not sure talking about the same?! Did you use solid pigments or more likely liquid dye?

Dirk well this is liquid pigment from Monocure.

Zäta Doe ? then it makes sense but not comparable with solid pigments! Anyway...great to know now how to do it ? ?

Dirk yeah I would not use solid pigments dude ? that seems dangerous. Especially on powder Form, ?

always thaught if this would work, cheers !

Solid pigments are bad with resin. They always sink and cause issues. Always use liquid pigments to avoid issues.

☺️

Same here!!! Love my zero ?

(y)

Lee Petrová love that! Havent seen that one before

Lee Rogers really thanks! Model created by Libor Drahoš and i was painting the model :)

Very nice any tips for resin and setting

Luis Guzman my go to resin now is e-sun white , water washable . Never had a minutes issue with it. My settings are 60s, 8s,1 sec off and this was printed at 0.03 hence the 28 hours!

Thank you

That’s awesome. Great maximizing volume!

Stl? :)

Could only find split files

Alison Wartenberg https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-alien......

Looks great

Rodney Houlford thank you. My best print so far. Will let loose with the airbrush tomorrow!

So good you finally had some results! IMO I think it looks very well

your settings you are seeing there! They worked like a charm :) thanks again!

Use Antialiasing 4x or 8x, it will help with this at the top extremly

Mario Hippmann habe AAx8 aktiv eigentlich ?

Chris Moody das ist komisch, hast du auch die richtige (neuen) FW drauf?

Mario Hippmann ne mit der FW hab ich nichts gemacht. Wo sehe ich welche drauf ist? Ich such mal eben

Chris Moody beim drucker unten infos oder so

Mario Hippmann trau mich nicht den Druck zu pausieren- warte noch 4h :D

Chris Moody wann hast den drucker gekauft?

Mario Hippmann vor ca. 10 Tagen auf Ebay (Anycubic Official)

Chris Moody dann sollte die richtige FW drauf sein

Mario Hippmann hoffe ich mal. Ich bin beruhigt zu wissen dass die Kantenglättung noch verbessert werden kann, aber ich kann mir dann auch nicht erklären woran es liegt... ?

Iirc you wont see a difference between .025 and .030 as the stepper motor only operates in increments of .010.

thanks! Why are people not going below 0.03 then?

You CAN do say .020 but I believe, again IIRC the machines resolution is closer to the .030 range so it could just be wasting time. Try using the AA like another suggested.

Mark Rhodes ok, will go with 0.03 and AAx8. Again. Those where the Settings I used for thanos aswell. I will check the Firmware in a few minutes and see if thats faulty. Besides that I cant see why my AA isnt working?! :(

I personally just go with AA of 4. You may also try re-orientating the part. Maybe so that a not to "smooth" surface is on the top. I was doing some 40k tyranids and notices if their shell ended with more of a point or roughness those layer lines were non visible.

hast ne PM, geht einfach als hier schätze ich :)

AA doesn't prevent layer lines. It is going to happen no matter what you do, so it is probably best to just position it so the top is someplace out of the way.

Ben Cox AA make IT smoother

Mario Hippmann yeah, but there will always be layer lines. They might be a little bit different with AA, but you can't physically get rid of them. Once OP primes and paints it you'll never know it was there most likely.

What settings do you use? I'm having trouble printing under 0.05mm

Andy Turtle Consiglio will post them tomorrow, cant find them on my phone and my PC is already sleeping ;)

Chris Moody .02 is the smallest the human eye can really see, the reason most people do .03 is because it's a good combo of quality and speed.

.02 is white blood cell size, you can see it but any paint will cover it

Mark Rhodes can u explain AA settings

Wet sand before post cure, helps smooth out surfaces and remove support bumps

Did you use any supports for your print? And you must've hollowed it right? What thickness?

Rodrigo Castelo Branco Mello Miranda I haven't, but I should have ? Supports where set quite spare, except for the base (20° angle I guess)

I'm debating wether this will hold or not, been wanting to try it without supports, hollowed it out to 1mm

Rodrigo Castelo Branco Mello Miranda no idea tbh, quite new to printing. But I often heard that printing with the flat side down is not recommended

Usually (but not always) quieter fans means less airflow

Possibly a high end pc fan

Nicolas Tsagarides indeed, it is. Though it could be compensated via bigger fan blades, their count, fan diameter, etc.
As for me the main concern is the noise, even for the price of a slightly shorter printer lifespan.

Justin Cupitt for the bottom fan it's Noctua for sure. Trouble is with the angled, for lack of a better term, fan.

Noctuas

Alexander Bayerdorffer sure, but look at the pictures. There's a fan with side blower

That's a bit more intersting

Not sure at this time

Alexander Bayerdorffer if anything comes by - would be grateful for any hints

Unless you want to change your LCD and/or LED element very regularly, the noise is probably not that much of a concern.
If you ever had a projector, you will know the LEDs produce an insane amount of heat.
"There is no replacement for displacement" and unfortunately moving a lot of air makes a lot of noise.
Technically you could setup a watercooling loop, with a large radiator and fans. the added surface area would compensate for the reduced flow.
But double the size of the machine...

Alexandre Gilbert I do realize the possible equipment wear, and heat dissipation requirements.
Also, I understand that all the parts are there for a good reason.

My point is, if it's quieter at most for a couple of dBs - it's worth a couple less hours of operation. Of course, that'd be solely valid for my case.

Well if you are up to it, building a small watercooling setup lets you move high amounts of heat to a radiator where you can run a large 120mm or 140mm fan that is in an other league of quiet compared to a blower fan. Making the heat blocks will be the hardest part.

Alexandre Gilbert no, I mean, quieter fans, like Noctua. That'd be cheaper and faster at the moment. Besides, I made similar conversion on my Photon S, and is very happy with that for about half a year now.

Your idea is awesome, and I'd surely like to try that some time.

I have used noctua fans for years. They are quiet, but usually move 1/3 to 1/2 the volume of air. That's why they are quiet.
A computer throttles down when it overheats. As much as I love them for PSU and other sub-100W systems, I can't see them being efficient in a projector-style system that needs to dissipate 200-300W or risk damaging components.

Alexandre Gilbert that's why I took 120mm in place of 80mm for the Photon S.

Surely, that's not a direct replacement, yet it allows to print at night

Alexandre Gilbert just to be clear - it's only me experience, and the choice made in a complicated trade-off between two system properties, equally significant, yet differently prioritized

So, it's that blower fan that causes all the noise. I thought the machine was falling apart. Have you tried isolation mounts? I have to fix the LCD screen so the machine will have to be dismantled. Thanks for the heads up!

Correct. The default value is 0.05mm; most resins support layer heights between 0.02mm and 0.1mm. Each layer height requires its own (different) exposure setting. When you increase layer height you must increase exposure time.

Hi, fairly noob here. I had the same question and found that the Internet said the difference between .01 -.02 was so miniscule you may as well print at .02.

Just as an FYI: I set up a print at .05 which had a projected time @ 5 hrs 40 mins. As an experiment I changed layer to .02 and projected time increased to 20 hrs 25 mins.

Neal Conway you’re correct. It is possible to print at 0.01 but the difference between 0.01 and 0.02 is so minuscule, I don’t bother to print at 0.01. It takes double the time and stress on your printer. Most of the time I print in 0.05 anyway. The coat of paint covers almost any layer lines I have.

Neal Conway OP is asking about maximum, not minimum

Normal layer height is 0.05mm, minimum is 0.01, maximum is 0.1mm.
You must remember to change the exposure time however, to accout for the thicker layer. In general it should still take shorter to do a 0.1mm at higher exposure than 0.05 at normal expos ure.

Eg. my elegoo grey 0.05mm exposure is 8-9 seconds.
increasing the hight to 0.1mm I use 12s. Its not a linear increase of exposure (not x2 hight = x2 exposure), add 30-40% exposure time and it should be roughly there

A4 paper is ~.1. .02 is 5X as thin

I have printed at 0.1mm once. It worked fine. I wasnt bothered with detail and wanted a quicker print

This is 0,1mm layerheigt at 18 seconds exposure with Anycubic black, printed yesterday. Has a minor flaw, but can easily fix it.

I use .12mm for structural pieces.

Niall Forrester I considered that but wondered whether .01 is what he actually meant so gave my twopenn'orth in that light.

It's all about the resin. Some could easily go to .3

Neal Conway I print at .04: after doing literally dozens of comparison tests...the only place I could see a difference was under a 40x microscope

Scott Pavlich I suspect it's only worth doing if there's a lot of fine detail tbh . . .

Ultra light supports from youtube are meant for incredibly dialed in printers. Either your exposure is too low, the temperature in the room is too low or your plate isn't level. I'd personally recommend turning the exposure up by 2 seconds.

Always work for me, even on largish prints, I would check your exposure times

What program you using for supports? I’ve personally found PrusaSlicer to be excellent. If you’re using Chitubox, one of the biggest problems with their light supports is head/point depth, how far it penetrates into the model; I’d recommend increasing that and seeing how it works for you.

Thank you all. I use chitubox, with diameter contact 0,22 and penetration 0,22. I was thinking they were good settings for those little teeth.

By the way I print following the Google Doc. 10 sec exposure for anycubic grey. I will increase it. Here there is another picture: some supports warp

Moreover I usually have difficulty to stack the print from the plate. Would I increase the hight of the base?

Ludovico De Giulio I have printed 0.12 mm support and contact

I think I hollowed the top one, if your one isnt hollow it might be too heavy, but k would think its the exposure is the issue

Mine is hollowed too. Maybe the problem is exposure as you say, so I try now adding 2 seconds.

Might need to add a touch more exposure time like .25 or .5 of a second

I added two seconds, it looks good

you gotta realize good prints come from knowledge and not documented settings. You will gain experience and knowhow when you get successful prints. Every print is different and requires different support settings. You will start to see this after time, don't expect everything to come off perfect after using someone else's advice.

Mothy Reynolds you're absolutely right. I got photon only 2 month ago. By the way I would understand and I'd study the rules of resin and support settings. What a higher exposure implies, what the number of bottom layers do... Something like a manual, but I didn't find it yet. Maybe do you know where can I find those info?

Ludovico De Giulio take the number of prints that are possible and multiply that by the number of printers and that is the number of different settings you would need to memorize to get every print perfect. But i've found youtube pretty helpful, also learn manual supports and make your own custom profiles in chitubox for what you print a lot of.

Of course, I don't want to memorize all possible settings. Only to understand what something implies something. On YouTube there are lots of tutorials, I'll search something more technical again.
Thank you mothy

Since the supports seem to be fine up to a point, I would suggest that you change the support settings. At the points where supports fail, I would suggest using heavy supports, but control the contact depth so that you don't have huge spots to clean up once you remove your supports.

My light supports are .12 contact and penetration. Lights shouldn't be holding any weight, so hollowed vs not hollowed shouldn't matter. Have enough medium and heavy to support the weight, and lights are for small islands like those teeth

Yessik Ziiq thank you, I added 2 secs and now this problem is solved. But I got anotherone as you can see in the picture. Any advice?

About the shift in supports

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Looking good ?? but how do you get rid of the fumes? Cause a ventilator isn't really taking away the fumes, right? It just blows them somewhere else ?

As Kevin Lems said... the fan just blows the fumes elsewhere.
And actually could be a bad thing for you, if it doesn't go out the window directly.... since all the "overspray" that gets swept away by the fan now settles somewhere else.... for example your on furniture...

-edit: I know for sure as my "airbrush station" was set up somewhat similar.

I sit next to a window! In the past I have done a small fan flipped around so it blows out of my box that was fully enclosed. Then on the outside of the box I got a downspout extender that I could stretch and retract and I'd bend it out the window. I also don't have any nice furniture near my desk so as long as it's blown away from my TV toward the window I don't care much

Why can’t you use Chitubox?

Chris Peck finished doing supports on project loaded up next project and was blank no rectangle for work area and no part. loaded part i just finished would not load ether not worked since. did a reinstall and still dont work.

Oh dang. That sucks. I know it has a few less settings/features but have you tried using the photon workshop yet? I have been using chitubox for all my supports and such and then I have to use photon to slice because Chitubox doesn’t support the photon zero yet.

up till to day it was all i was using too. i can not get the support right in workshop but was going to be tring it again