Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Maybe your FEP is damaged/dented.
Useful:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4207776

If your prints turn out fine but you still get stuck resin, my guess would be you’ve got some small unsupported islands that are curing to the fep but not affecting the overall model. That or lcd failure, but then you’d likely see issues in the actual prints.

This is a brand new FEP. First time it was used.

could be this unsupported islands hypothesis. I'll prepare a new file. I do create all my supports in Prusa.

Kamil Bartosz Bilski no need to download this.
You have one built in.
It's the detection test.
Light up the full plate and you are done. Just peel the debris after

Ivan Adhi R well that is partially true. I do not how it is in new photons, but my one (little bit older) had uv detection test that not covers whole screen.

Kamil Bartosz Bilski old photon?

Ivan Adhi R Purchased 9 months ago from Anycubic. Produced im March I think

I see, i never touched a photon before.

Got mine within a week of ordering, resin came in a seperate package a few days later though

thanks!

I know the feeling. I now expect to hear that fep snap back about every 8-9 seconds.

even though i know it's a successfully sound... i find it to be very irritating, think i'm going to have to move the printer out of ear shot.

cant seem to get my photon to print right.. i desperately miss that sucking sound

Never heard it

mm, Shpuck, mmmmm...mmmmmmm, pause, repeat.

oh I know what you mean :)

It happens if you have good, but slightly loose FEP. It's still installed properly, it just has enough room to pull up a bit and make that noise. Generally this happens when a print is going well.

As long as you name it R_E_R_F.pws for a photon S, you can use whatever model you like as long as they’re placed as in your picture

Use ameralabs test it’s much better if you have the photon s

I was wondering if updating the firmware on the regular photon would allow me to use the same test. I run this on my photon S all the time, but I'd prefer it over the photonsters test for my regular photon as well. It's much easier to change the times on this test, since it just takes the initial exposure number then ticks it up by one for each test.

Francois Lozach It's an original Photon they're asking about

id hit it with a light coat of primer bet you see the details

May be a little overexposed, that can obscure detail like that too.

hot in resin?

Print at higher res, 0.01

And may be the details are not deep enough on the model

layer height 0.01?

Maybe it has something to do with Anti-Aliasing?

Most likely need more defined hair. Remember you are looking at it on a big screen and shrinking it down to fit on a finger.

increase layer heigth?

To get that detail you're going to have to half your layer height, turn AA to a bare minimum and make sure you clean the model well after printing.

If that's Elegoo green you could probably also drop your exposure to 10s

This is a common problem when 3D modelling. The ability to zoom in on your model to the nano scale changes our perception of the size of details. What looks perfectly clear and large when you're hovering above the surface of the 3D model, is tiny, co nsidering real life scale.
Those hair details you've modelled are way smaller than you think. You need to make them much bigger. You could go even as far as doing test prints on a small test part at different sizes to figure out which resolution is most visible. Remember you'll lose some of that detail in the casting stage as well.

over exposure will wipe out details too.

Jeff Timothy this answer.

I've been playing with anycubic green for a minute now... your normal exposure time should be at 8 (give or take 1 sec base on machine)... your bottom layer exposure time is a little high too in my opinion, I have mine at 90 (80 for clear)... good luck

Increase the height on the sculpted detail.

Jeff Kitchen I have to run mine at 10 sec, 0.03 layer height. It think also depends on batch of resin, and ambient environment. My supports kept breaking at lower levels

I worked on a very tiny prop part for a big movie a few years ago, it got cast in brass, and it took at least 3 test prints to get the details correct. When zoomed in, the details looked HUGE but in truth the smallest details were less then 1 mm across and were lost when printed to actual size.

what jason said.

Vincent Balmont 10s on 0.03 :O ? I'm down to 2.5s on 0.03 layers with the transparent green from anycubic.

Mi Ha you probably have photon s

Vincent Balmont ah yes, indeed.

details are to fine you have to exaggerate the details to have them show. this was one of my first mistakes when i was creating models with fur details. even more when i was creating stuff in VR though my details looked high and thought they would print i forgot that when i shrunk the models down to scale you loose the details.

You need some Siraya Blu :)

I imagine it sheered because it was too brittle. Type of resin and how long you let it cure for. Good chance that flex will help.

Hard to tell but I think you would have a better with 10% flex
I would be a nice test ?

Yeah any engineering or nylon like resin will give you way better useful mechanical life especially for gears

Resins are not strong enough for high tension, most resins I should say

Blu is your answer

Siraya Blu or Tenacious. You’ll still have to keep an eye out for wear, but they will be strong enough. Oddly enough, my 10y old shredder just gave up the ghost.

I think if you didn't post cure, it probably would have been fine

The fracture on the gear is a brittle fracture.

With this problem i would attack it 2 ways, 1 is to confirm that you're "as manufactured" dimensions and tolerances conform to the "as designed" specs as closely as you can. Backlash in a gear can cause high stresses.

High stresses combined with brittle materials causes stuff to shatter.

Add some flex in there and you should see the gear explosions stop, but hlthere is no guarantee that the printer will function as normal unless the printed parts match the actual parts.

Gears are tricky things to design and manufacture.

As folks said above, either nylon like resin or Siraya BLU.

I suggest keeping these gears very thoroughly lubricated. These resins do not wear well, and tend to erode quickly. Keeping the gears well greased will vastly extend the service life.

While you’re at it, you’re probably better off printing a couple of them.

Who makes the Siraya Blu resin? Anycubic?

If you need some working parts you could always try a combo of 50/50 siraya blu/siraya abs like.

Also, beef up the thinner webs of the gear. No need to make it exactly as designed. Keep the gear mesh surfaces as is. Make everything else solid. That will help with strength.

And as stated, add a small amount of flexible resin.

If you want functional parts then an fdm printer is your goto. The photon is for those beautiful prints that don't need countless hours of post work like sanding.

Siraya Tech

I would have use the resin to construct a mold.

This crossed my mind. When i find time i will learn the secrets of mold making.

Dan Andersson it is real easy. Hot hard at all

FDM with nylon or CF would be the best bet here.

Ryan Cook yes! Nylon with a 0.2 Nozzle is very good for gears!

Vincent Wilson have to agree. For that kind of part I’d definitely go with FDM. Plus there’s a world of hard wearing plastics to chose from.

Already know it for a school project a need it to design and build a car direction system and it worked for 5 minutes but the contact between the gears bringed wear so quick it was obvious the system wasnt going to last very long so I added some lubricant and there was no major difference. So...for practical applications stick to fdm abs or just buy siraya resins and abs like resins

Nylon FDM is your best option IMO for home printing. Resin photo-polymers slack in material proprieties that are good for pressure and friction. Carbon filled may end up wearing your other gears.

Flex is the wrong way to go with gears, but you’ll want something that is stronger and less brittle than most resins.

Most basic resin are brittle. You need to find tough resin which cost more.

there is abs like resin, or you could cast it into metal or into another resin

Siraya Blu would grind itself to powder. It is not good with abrasion resistance at all.

I would probably make a silicone mold and cast it in a urethane. UV resins I've used are not well suited for the friction or force that will occur with that gear. Siraya Blu will wear too quickly and most other resins are too hard, in my opinion.

I am planning try use carbon nanotubes mixed with resin. This material not so much cost in Russia.

Nylon FDM

Can you send me the STL and I can try to slice it for you

I can, its over 25mb so cannot send over fb but i could send over email. or if you want to check the original file its the body part of Loken on this site. https://cults3d.com/....../garviel-loken-thanks-for-1k......

I'll check on it tonight and see what I can do :)

I can do it too if Andy cant. :D working from him has it perks of working on my gaming machine

It would be extremely helpful thank you. Try whatever is easier, whacking the lower resolution button a few times or whacking supports and slicing. I would be more than happy to return the favour/ print something!

Yes I was hoping with more people at home there would be more printing time! I should say I have the Photon S!

I have a OG photon but can still slice for you. currently printing with the ender for some mask stuff for the hospital right across the river.

Dan Barca I don't actually know how to use the "lower resolution " button, will a slice file work for you?

And don't worry about returning the favor, I'm pretty new to printing myself :)

Andy Turtle Consiglio lowering the resolution would be done in a different program like blender or Zbrush or mesh mixer. If you just have Chitubox, could you whack on supports and slide for 0.04mm, 8s layers please? I would be eternally grateful!

Dan Barca sure! Message me the full list of settings that you want and I'll take care of it tonight. Do you want small, medium or large supports?

I personally use non fep from epax it is great and costs about the same.

I replaced mine about a week ago, last one went 6 months and hundreds of prints. I’ve never had to do anything to the FEP to address aggression issues. Install as shown on Anycubic site video and tune it to about 310Hz using an FFT app on my iPhone (shows the frequency the film vibrates at when you tap on it—just like tuning a guitar or piano).

Things to check: plate leveled and zeroed, mixed resin, temperature correct

ahhhh resin may be the thing. It has been a couple of days.

If anyone has any other ideas, I'm open! It would give up at the first of the month when "Patreon fever" is at its worst! LOL!

Looking through the old posts. Could this be a result of old FEP and black resin?

Also, with out seeing what’s on the FEP, we’re just speculating. Depending on how thin might even be an island that needed a support is whats stuck on the fep. Was it run through the verifer?