Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

How'd you get that off the bed :O

Put the plastic scraper against the edge and tap lightly with screwdriver handle. Doesn't take much. A few taps and it'll start to pop. Work your way around the part.

Mmmm. Hmm. Lightly. That goes against my current "Norman Bates" strategy that I've been going with...

Just like cutting a big stone in half. You can't power drive a chisel through the entire thing in one shot. You tap it in specific locations. You continue tapping it until it starts to form a crack. You lead that crack with more small hits.

Cringe time, I use a straight up metal scraper, if your bottom exposure is high enough a couple little scratches on the plate don't matter at all.

I love seeing minis, I might love seeing practical prints more, especially out of the photon, great work.

I used a metal razor blade to get it off. There's a lot of flex in such a thin part. I made sure to lay it flat while curing, but it still has quite a bit of flex.

just drew a holder for wireless charging so I can easily mount it in a car. these printers are great for interior parts and prototyping

Plus it won't melt in the car like PLA or ABS does!

I use mine for PCB mounts all the time. The Acrylic is strong enough to take an M2.5 mounting screw with just a little cleanup, I actually print-in the thread then just run a tap through to clean if I'm feeling particularly energetic.

The shorter it is the shorter the print time, so one way is to angle the best way to have it have the least layers

Explain yourself, post what you are printing and how long it takes

Use a fast resin like Ameralabs AMD-3

Print before u go to sleep and before u go to work

You could lower a lot is settings and get a reduced print time. But you would also have a ton of failed prints.

get a sonic mini

size of model, thickness of layer, exposure times.

The print time is only effected by the height of the print.

Build the print at an angle and use more supports. Or find things that have multiple pieces and print them and assemble the large item when they are done.

James Mullin that's what I do all the time for really long prints. Left a 9 hour print going last night while I slept actually. When you wake up in the morning it's just sitting there hanging around waiting for you. Already dripped off and everything. Leaving things hanging on the build plate for hours at a time is not going to hurt them at all. I've gotten busy and left a print hanging around for a day and a half before I got it back around to it. Didn't hurt it at all.

3d printing is a long process, what are your print times looking like? I print minis at the highest detail level possible and a standard mini at that resolution takes 17-21 hours to print.

Yessik Ziiq are you talking about 28mm models, or something larger?

Jonathan Basseri 32mm, but sometimes they have helmets. Or swords pointing into the air.

Mikel Deiman my baby yoda which is 2 cm high ,took 3 hours to print

Michael Fox that's pretty normal, but if you print 6 of them it'll still take 3 hours to print all of them.

The Photon S is faster than the Photon, as it has a higher power UV array, but not tremendously so.
You can lower your resolution (layer heights), but the lower you go, the more detail you will lose.
You can reduce exposure times, but run the risk of f ailure, unless you're already overexposed.
You can orient the printed items so they aren't as tall, but depending on surface area, this can cause print failure from too much suction, pulling the print off the plate or from the supports.

It's all a balancing act, and the right balance comes from practice, trial and error, and becoming knowledgeable through that process and self education.

try coming to a fdm printer where I started and a decent cosplay file was 8-10 days

In some ways resin is faster, in some slower. Making lots of small objects, we're champions, need some cosplay, FDM is the way to go.

Yessik Ziiq have you thought about getting a Sonic mini?

Cody Cody Yes, but for various reasons I'm pretty poor at the moment. If my youtube channel picks up a bit. I may be able to finagle a review unit.

Ahhhh I see... What's on your channel

Cody Cody It's really just started, it's mostly very to the point tutorial videos for 3d printing. This one most clearly shows you what the video is about with just the screenshot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egyPf0hW6AY&t=3s

I plan to start doing resin reviews at 1k subs then printer reviews at 5k.

And layer height, lift speed and distance, retraction speed and distance, off time and of course exposure times to think of a couple.

Keith Yinger I’ve gone several days maybe a week. As long as it’s not bathing in sunlight it can hang around for quite sometime.

Yessik Ziiq I just did a 75mm one in pieces at .02mm and it took 17.5hrs. Looks great though! That was the longest print I’ve done.

Eddie Chamberlain I'm doing some of the old Titan Forge models, and they're so detailed that I was loosing details even at .03 layer height. So I had to bring it down one more step.

With a hypothetical build plate that's 7 feet by 5 feet, using standard settings, you could have the pieces of an entire suit of armor in less than 8 hours.

print wider in preference to taller on the build plate - less layers, less time.

Make the item smaller? Lol

Michael Fox and you could print 12 of them on the plate at the same time..............

Printer other stuff at the same time? Fill the bed with prints first.

quality takes time...

Science... don’t question it just be glad you can make something from liquid goo.

Uhm....math?

Things that effect print time....

Height of the off the build plate (based on orientation)

height of each layer(.05 seems to be the most popular)

and exposure times (which are different from resin to resin AND printer to printer)

3 hours isnt super long for a print though. Ive been averaging around 5 to 6 hours. With big prints taking 12 to 15.

You are turning liquid into detailed solid shapes using light. It takes time

Other than babies...

Go buy whatever you want from a store?

Ask the Doc to lend you his DeLorean

Go faster.

Cryogenics

.

Do the screws become loose or does your FEP stretch?

Higher lift speeds cause more force pulling the prints off the FEP.
Yes your print is faster but if you lower your speeds you can get successful prints when it would otherwise might just barely break your builds off the supports.

Bolts definitely come loose. FEP is still taut, but less than before.

Hero Forge is a great source

I get most of mine from thingiverse or cults 3D. This guy has a lot of good models for example:
https://www.thingiverse.com/dutchmogul/about

I would also recommend joining the FB group "3D printing miniatures and terrain"

There are many places. Try Thingiverse for free ones or MyMiniFactory or free and paid ones. There are also multiple Patreons that do fantastic minis

Thanks a lot guys!

Thingiverse is great and I am liking the quality from Titan-Forge

As someone working with Titan Forge I approve this message. Artisan guild and CastnPlay are also pretty good, drop 30$ on those three per month and you'll have more than you can ever deal with.

Jim Dziak

Check out theminiindex.com

Yeggi, Cgtrader

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/26095-ankheg-updated

https://www.patreon.com/mz4250

Humble bundle

DesktopHero Mini Maker

Check out McMaster-Carr, you'll need to cut yourself, but it'll get to you in a few days if you are in the US

Thanks for the tip!

I am in the same boat

I have ordered a bunch of stuff from amazon with that ship date and it has all come in within 2-5 days of ordering it.

That's my hope

Conan Lloyd I think they are just padding the times so that people don’t get mad when it’s a few days late.

i did same but ordered off ebay alot quicker delivery time

If small puncture, tape it and place model away from it. Good luck.

Try the FEP from McMaster Carr. They sell it by the foot, and it's less than Amazon. Just cut it to size.

Do you have a direct link? Too many options for me feeble understanding.

85905K66 - Clear Slippery High-Temperature FEP Film, 24" Wide x 0.005" Thick
https://www.mcmaster.com/85905K66

That's the one I buy

Bought four feet of it almost 2 years ago, still have a pile of cut sheets...

85905K66 - Clear Slippery High-Temperature FEP Film, 24" Wide x 0.005" Thick
https://www.mcmaster.com/85905K66

March 27 ... Ordered 500ml Anycubic Grey. Delivery estimated by MAY2 .... But it will be delivered Saturday April 4 ... which is 9 days ... While not the two day Prime delivery time, but it seems that Amazon is estimating LONG delivery dates just in case their delivery systems get overloaded with priority items customers need most

You might be able to take it to a local machine shop and have them spotface it to make it flat.

You can machine it flat but increasing base exposure time will also work.

Assuming you can't return it and get them to send you another, sand it - it's hard to get it flat if the bulge is in the middle, so if it was me, I'd sand only the middle until it is just a tiny bit concave, then use sandpaper stuck down to a flat surface to get it flat from there.

Best thing to do is have a machine shop fly cut the face, it could also be sanded using paper on a piece of granite or other surfaced flat natural stone, but with high in the center like yours, that’s a tough one to get out manually.

overcured

Frog bench!!

Over cured and possibly overexposed

Watch your print while its printing, you will see things move around when they get pulled off of the FEP sheet. When resin is still soft, it flexes, and when you have to PULL a flexible thing from being stuck to a sheet of FEP its gonna FLEX. So take t hat into consideration when building your supports, support it from angles that will reduce flex when pulling UP from the fep. I know this isn't the answer you wanted but its what you need to do.

Anders Scot Hudson what's the difference between over cured and over exposed?

Mothy Reynolds I'm having trouble wrapping my brain around the supporting advice. I'm down to try it but I'm not sure how exactly?

about 90 seconds ;-) generally if your exposure time is set too high on the machine, fine details get "fuzzy" from expansion of the material, (I use the elegoo grey, I do a second lower than advised, 7 sec. at .05 as opposed to 8, but you gotta be on your support game) When you are "curing" if that grey starts to turn brown like you see on your edges, that was too much curing time.

Sorry short form is
Exposure- time per layer in the machine
Cure- time outside in UV light

Hadn't done any curing outside of the printer and I don't think anything was brown, maybe a trick of the light. It's siraya grey and a little tenacious so maybe it's just the translucency of the tenacious showing.

Gonna have to either use an extractor bit to get the screw out or buy a new vat and screws

Press a foil or paper with the key in the screws head

Use a dremmel make a normal cut in. It and use a normal screwdriver

I contacted anycubic about stripped screws in my build plate assembly, and they sent me a whole new one. If your still covered, I would reach out and let know, but I'm sure somebody's idea will work for getting this one functional again.

Jeremy James Rutherford I've had it for almost 2 years now.. it's the OG blue window Photon so I guess they won't fall for that ? but it's worth a try ?? ?

Bernhard Rubel gonna try that! Thanks ?? ?

Richard van Vondel also a good option! Thanks ?

And if those tricks don't work, you'll have to drill the screw out. My experiance in drilling out flat heads has been once the head comes off, the body of the screw twists out fairly easily.

Kevin Lems Gotcha. I wish you luck with removal then!

Also, you can try with a torx bit. Those have better grip on stripped allen key screws.

Jeremy James Rutherford thanks ?

Are you using an imperial Allen key in place of a metric one?

Use one of the hex head extractors, they work a treat. Maybe use a better quality hex key in future, the ones supplied aren’t that good

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK32YsQNss8

What size is that allen? Is it metric?

watching you turn that just hurts my soul a little bit.

Get the imperial size hex just above the metric you are using, it's about. 5mma bigger and should fit in the rounded hole snugly, if not then get an impact driver

Utilise un élastique

Tony Healey don't know honestly ? just the ones that came with the printer ?

Manuel Galán it's one that came with the printer

Gregory Akin may I ask why? I was trying to hold the VAT and twisting and filming ?

Peter Manks 2mm is to small and 2.5 won't fit.. ?

Peter Csaki absolutely

try this method with a rubber band or use a torx tip

Because you are stripping the screw

Mickael Blache I've done the same with 2 part epoxy putty

If nothing works just make it into a slot for a flat head screw driver. Then replace with a new screw.

Also... it should be noted that the allen keys that come with the photon are cheap and they themselves wear out really easily adding to this issue.

Impact it is then, spray it with wd40 first though

and cheap screws as well...

The video makes my eyes hurt!

Use the rubber band trick or use Teflon tape wrapped around the key. Could use a couple wraps to make tight

Mine did the same thing. I just add pressure and they loosen.

Screw extractor will fix that right up.

Do you have a Dremel? Take a small cutting wheel and cut a notch into the screw head, use a Flathead and back it out

Or you could just start ordering the replacable FEP vats from Elegoo.

Grind off the tip of the Allan key. It's usually the Alan key that strips before the screw. So grinding off the worn part should work.

The screws on this printer are the cheapest POS I have seen.

Thanks for all the tips and tricks! Going to try it again tomorrow when I've bought some spare screws ?

After I've gotten over all the quirks, or shit design as you put it. You can really get some amazing prints out of it.

Misread your comment, I though you said the printer was a POS, and I was thinking, it's really good for what you pay.

Oh totally, replace the screws and balljoint and you got yourself an amazing printer. For all it's quirks I have enjoyed my 5 months with it.

Brett Thompson It's kind of like one of those cheap cars that people swear by. It might be a piece of junk, until you learn how to use it.

can i ask where you're getting the spare screws please? I had the same problem with mine but thankfully the trick with using rubber band as grip worked for me so i was able to replace me fep

Try a rubber band in the slot.

Uuh I was thinking of getting tham at hardware store ? but maybe I need to order them online

Bernhard Rubel Or put a rubber band inside and press into it.

the same thing happened to me, but with the screw on top of the plate for leveling. Super frustrating.

The screws would be standard M3 if you crack open a caliper if you have one or eyeball one of them with a ruler you'll be able to find out. Dealers like Melbourne Bolt would have them if you google for your area Nut and Bolt dealers you should find plenty. Your local Bunnings stores would have them as well. If you find long ones you can always cut them down to size.

Use a torx head screwdriver on a slight angle to remove the scew then replace it at a hardware store.

will the head with epoxy putty and while soft imprint the hex wrench in it.

works great

Is it metric or sae hex?

use some ruber to create more grip and than change this scew

Like Richard Tyler said it may be simply using the wrong hex version.

simple double sided tape - no magic behind it

Chris Moody it has to be thin, though.