Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Beautiful work!

Thank you Charles!

Is all the resin in the vat cured? Or just what's on the spatula?

If it's only the part in the spatula that's cured, you need to up your exposure times. White can be hard to work with.

What are your settings now?

Had the same thing happen on my first 2 prints. Was a bed level issue. Re leveled the bed and have been printing fine.

Could be a few things. Up the bottom layers and exposure time. Re-level the build play and if it's still happening scuff up the surface of the build plat

Leveling

Leveling

Probably your level was not low enough. Also sometimes the skates on the bottom have a draft that's just way too thin so I made them cylinders and also made them thicker

Sean O'Hayer just the one in ths spatula

leveling. you are probably too high.

Sean O'Hayer and it was stuck to the vat

why did you not check how it's doing after 3 hours or so?

Ioan Flerr it's my first resin print dude, I don't know what I'm doing

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4207776

Derek Fontes so weird i followed the instructions to correcly level the bed, so weird this happened. I'm gonna try again

i think my first few print failures were due to me forgetting to change the mahine settings in the software.

Bruno Shepard

Fair enough! Research research research

Just remember that this will spend some of your resin, and make sure you take your build plate off before you do it - otherwise you can push the leftover cured resin at the bottom down into your LCD screen, and break it.

But yes, what other people have mentioned, double check your leveling.

These were the settings

Bruno Shepard I've printed for 2 years, bad prints are still a thing because placing supports is an art in itself. What you want to do is, after a cm or so have been printed, hit pause, the bed will rise and you can take a quick look if the model is still stuck to the plate or not. Then resume. It beats wasting a lot of print time only to find out it is a failure.

Bruno Shepard Unless you’re trying to print something directly on the plate, don’t be afraid to go nuts on the bottoms layers. It can help compensate for a not totally perfect leveling. I do 10 layers at 100 sec just to be sure. Worth an extra 10 minutes on your print time to not lose the print and have to spend 10 minutes cleaning to vat.

Bottom layer count should be between 8 and 10. If I do normal exposure under 10,the print fails.

Bruno Shepard Your exposure settings SHOULD be OK, but like was mentioned by others, you may want to re-level your build plate. Try the "flint read" method if you haven't.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V45o8udXNsM&t=304s

exposure time at 80?

I use 150 seconds at 8 layers. How would it burn out you're lcd screen?

seconds at what settings?

Andy Turtle Consiglio

Andy Turtle Consiglio i am using anycubic basic white resin, i don't know if these settings would work

I had the exact same issue, and it was bed leveling, I had to increase the pressure on the paper until I could barely pull it out without ripping versus snug but moveable. Also for more opaque resins, you might have to really up your base and per layer time, as opposed to translucent resins.

Ooo, up your bottom layer time to at least 80-90 (usually about 10x the per layer), and do about 10-15 layers, it'll add about 15 minutes to the print, but that's less than failure.

Also, for a white opaque resin, I'd try 9-11 seconds to start, and then back off the setting it if appears "baked" with a loss of detail or is too brittle.

you will cut your lcd lifespan if you up your base layers so much.
It’s better to tighten you z=0 down further so the printer doesn’t have to cure so much resin to fill such a large gap.
With my z=0 tightened down my base layers are 4 layers at 40 seconds and have no problems with bed adherence. And I haven’t had to replace my lcd as often

When people suggest that it is leveling, they’re right. But it’s probably confusing why.

There are two parts to leveling. Making sure the print bed is level with the screen, and setting your z=0.
Making the print bed level is pretty easy and is relatively forgiving. This part is pretty hard to mess up.
Setting your z=0 is less forgiving. If you use paper per the directions, you really need it tighter than the directions make it seem.
Z=0 is where the print bed will try to print it’s first layer. If it’s too high, the resin won’t cure all the way from the lcd to the print bed.
You can compensate by increasing the base layer exposure, but that can wear your lcd out faster.
You want to shoot for around 8x your normal exposure time for your base layers.

To the first time 3D printer owners out there... First rule of 3D printing... It's a science project, very rarely do they work well right out of the box. To get the incredible results you see posted on FB and in forums, you will need to apply yourself and learn the idiosyncrasies of each printers technology, adjust, adapt and iterate numerous times until you get your printer and process dialed in. Second rule of 3D printing... No one is exempt from rule number 1. Happy printing. :)

You'll get there Bruno!!!! Keep asking questions, lots of good people willing to help.

Daniel Prows well said

Andy Turtle Consiglio Ignore my comment (which I delete), I mixed up which printer group I was in (I'm in the phrozen, elegoo and this one, and realized I was making an elegoo recommendation)

8 sec is to low, i ran at 13 with basic white

This happened to me.
Made a horrible crunching sound, but the LCD was luckily fine.
My FEP was punctured and needing replacing though...

Is this normal? It's going up and down like this for an hour

Daniel Prows so i can solve this just by properly adjusting the build plate? Not wanting to kill my lcd this soon

Bump

Bruno Shepard at 0,02 layer height... Yea.

Is the screen showing images each time the bed stops moving?

Christopher Carstens but it's for 0,02mm layer height.

. 02 will take you way longer. Do a. 05

is it slowly getting higher? I would use much less resin and print something small for your first print.

Sean O'Hayer yes!

Pete Kastner i think it is, can't really tell precisely right now though. I will be back home in a few hours and then i will be able to see it

I’d recommend adjusting your z=0 so the paper is tighter, and then run the sample print that Anycubic sends to test that your printer is setup right. Then after that, start doing models you pick.

With the sample print, you will need to bump the normal exposure since it’s sliced for Anycubic green.
If you don’t have the sample print, the rook is a good test print too

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533652

It’s small and supportless so you won’t have to wait so long

Your first print is a 14 hour print? You may want to start with something simpler.

Bruno Shepard You’ll come to learn that this is far from weird.

You have no clue how this printer works. The printer goes up and down the entire time. That is how it prints. It cures a layer at a time. Goes up then back down to cure the next.

for your first print, doing something that takes 14 hours at 0.02mm? That's just asking for trouble.

Do a small print and start with layers of 0.05, it'll get you up running faster and easier.

How long though?

How long what?

Would it take to print at 0.05

if you print the same model you're now printing it'll be done in about half the time. Not exacly half, as you'd have to expose a bit longer, but still..

So, the bigger the layer height, the bigger the exposure time?

yes, as there is more resin to cure

Bruno Shepard you need to totally change your mindset about this process.
Fírst you need to level your printer. from what I see that would be one of your big issues. Next, you need to pick something really small and print with a 0,05 layer hight. Next you need to set your exposures time properly.
I can't see it properly on your photo but I bet your initial layers are not cured as much as they should be.

After you print something small and it is perfect you can start changing your settings and start to print bigger things...

And also use youtube to learn what you are doing... it looks like you have absolutely no idea :-)

Jakub Mach thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated

Jakub Mach i tried YT, but they never go in depht about the settings. It's using youtube that ifucked my first print

Why would your first print attempt be for a 14 hour print? lol

If you’re pissed after your first print you’re going to spend days mad at your printer. ?

Probably hahahahaha

I am on attempt 20 and still not working, I did get some almost worked one time.

there is a very good beginers guide in the file section of this group. i only have done two prints so far. the first one failed horribly, then i found the guide and followed the instructions given and my second one is currently curing but it looks so amazing..... highly recommend you go give it a read

Kamil Bartosz Bilski this is interesting, so what I just stop bad print and start up this and let it go till it finishes? And it comes off plate or fep?

Ok, I had the same issue and was frustrated , a couple of bad prints where it stuck to the FEP. Well, it wasn't stuck to the FEP, there is a protective sheet over the FEP that should have been removed before printing. Check to see if there is a protective sheet over yours. Another issue I faced at times was a bad level of the build plate.

Also check your firmware. I had a lot of similar issues until I upgraded the firmware and then it printed fine.

it's the latest

Bruno Shepard you may want to downgrade to 4.2.18. It's been the most stable.

Ralph Hulslander really, 20 attempts and not even 1 good one?

Ok, I suggest you start a new thread. Include a screen shot of what your printing.

Your setup/config screen in what ever slicer your using

An image of your object your printing in the actual slicer.

Which version of the photon you have eg. photon original, photon S or fauxton (looks like an original photon but with the photon S main board)

The firmware number

And for the hell of it include a shot of the screen where you have to do the test exposure, the one that’s the hollow rectangle.

Basically, details, details, details.

My first 2 prints were an empty plate and hardened resin stuck to the FEP.

My issue was, I thought my plate was properly leveled based on YT videos. Well I was wrong I had to make the plate tighter to the base.

also, you can check your print by pausing it and peeking inside, I usually print an hour and then check. One of the guys from here gave me that suggestion when I first started out.

Did you do the Test print? It’s usually better to start with shorter prints...

Longer bottom expose

I was following a pdf, i think 60 should do it right?

I always give it like 100sec on bottom 8 just to be damn sure it never let's go until I want it to xD

it could also be you leveling is off.

I think it was the leveling, i just re did the step by step. I forgot to reset the z axis to 0 the other times

XD classic ?

Run the lcd test, it seems like something is off to have the whole vat cure as such.
There was also an issue previously with the given pendrive, try to reformat another pendrive and give it another go.
On some printers, the vat comes with a protective sticker that needs to be removed before printing.

Nic Lim I had asked about this (the vat being cured). Only the piece on the spatula is cured, the rest is still liquid.

Oh ok then it's your levelling then.
My settings are usually 65secs for bottom 5 layer exposure.. used to be 95secs. Havent given me any issues yet and allow me to remove the prints from the plate easier.
Some resin (especially higher viscosity and more solid colours) requires higher exposure. For me I usually stick to translucent resin so I can skimp on exposure times for slightly faster prints ?

Christopher Carstens lololololol

Ernest Sandridge Ill All that I have to say about my idea, is indescription of that "thing" :)

I had very similar issues up front and it was the same two things; I needed to over-cook my first layers and I needed to get levelling right.

I also never got on with the Flint method of levelling; but I now live and die by a video Nick Williams did for me and it has never failed me. I've not had a single levelling issue since.

Link here:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/AnycubicPhoton/permalink/1462046247273346/

Andy Murtagh over cook?

Just 120sec so you are sure it will stick

Mike Ravn Bolin how do i do that? Is it during the slicing settings?

Yup ?

Weird I just followed the settings that have been shared off Google drive and yet to have a failed print. Been printing for almost a week.

Kyle Duckwitz it was the leveling

Bruno Shepard gotcha. Makes sense. Whatcha printing anyway? Curious to see the end product.

Kyle Duckwitz right now i took a few step backs to print cubes and a castle to test the printer. Later i will print this funko pop project that i made of my girlfriend as a warrior. I also have some other things in mind but for now just testing it until i get things right

Bruno Shepard sounds awesome. Look forward to seeing the progress. :)

Bruno Shepard over expose, up the layer time for those first layers.

Andy Murtagh i do that by increasing the bottom exposure?

Yup

Crank it up to like 120 sec or something in that range

Bruno Shepard yep

Im Nick Williams, and I approve of this message.

Had the same problem. You didnt calibrate the exposure settings right for that type of resin

Ryan Ryan i did. The problem was the level

It didn't adhere to your build plate. I'd re-level and re-zero

Bryan Napes re-zero was the problem

Don't feel bad. I had failed prints, eventually got it dialed in and dare never change my resin type again.

Andy Murtagh do you recommend to increase exposure for huge prints? I'm going for a 20 hour print rn, and i would like to know your recommendations. I'm using basic white

First print and already pissed......maybe you should not try 3d printing,
By the way, check that the screw tensioning the fep film are tight, real tight, solved everything for me, and a lot of peoe.

Get an FDM printer and stick to it, or grow some thick skin. SLA is a fickle bitch but the results are worth it once you get it down.

Hey Bruno Shepard !

20h doesn't really count as huge, my average print is 20-22hrs :)

As far as your timings, has anyone pointed you toward our git yet? Check out http://photonsters.org/ . You'll find a wealth of best practice settnigs there, particularly if you look to the link for community resin exposure settings.

As far as your settings in the above image, 120s for bottom exposure is defo more where you need it to be. I generally do AnyCubic Grey, which is my go-to, at 90-110s for bottom. I might be inclined depending on your raft/supports to up the bottm layer count a bit, say 8-10 so you're overcooking a slightly larger base. 4 layers is a very thin raft. That's not necessarily a dealbreaker though depending on the volume of what you're printing.

Your 15s exposure time might be a touch on the high side though, you may find you lose detail with settings that high; the white is quite a thin resin so I'd be more inclined to think you'd be looking at somewhere from 6.5 to 9, but you can do the exposure test print to confirm :)

Try different USB stick

Reslice the same file. Happened to me same thing and that fixed it

Did you slice with Chitubox? I've heard that will cause crashes unless you're on the right firmware.

Garrett Chapman I sliced it with chitubox, saved as an stl then realized with photon studio

Resliced

Kyle Tennant that's the same way I do it too, so it's not Chitubox then

What thickness and what exposure??

The Exposure was a 12. The print was hallowed out at the default setting of 1.20 mm. The sliced thickness 0.02. I used the auto supports so I think that might be the issue with the odd solid support.

only 4 leds?... And 0 turbine, only fans? :D :D :D for what we pay?

Michal Powierza these are button LEDs, for curing there's more

Oleksandr Panforov Thats why there's a springs :D

Too bad the cure/wash function (order) seems to be "hard-coded" in the chip
Would'v wanted to be "wash & cure" rather than "cure & wash"...
Have to remember to switch to Wash mode when switching it on.

I had the same thought, I think that was done because if you accidentally start a wash cycle with the cure plate on it would be bad. Like flinging the plate and everything on it at high speeds.

Makes sense... Though that could'v easily been prevented by having some sort of sensor in place.

Only that would up the BOM and make it "more expensive" in building...

I feel the Cover sensor is partly use-less...
As, in wash, you don't want to splash it over the container anyway....

And with Cure, you know you are blasting UV-Light, so to keep it away from uncured resin you don't want to cure....

Meh, maybe If I'm annoyed by this enough I'll see if I can find any UART or JTAG lines to the motherboard or something of the alike to see if I can change the code order.

Xi-Sheng Luo if done - please, keep us updated. Would like to do the same

Looks incredibly smooth :)

gorgeous

?

Looks real!

More photos?

: D stl?

Yeah, stl? ? ?

Jenna Brandfas https://www.kickstarter.com/....../savi-made-3d......

David Tichý https://www.kickstarter.com/....../savi-made-3d......

Oof.... Can't give any help. I would change it just in case.

Your accent is awesome ? ?

If you're positive your fep doesn't leak and you can move your prints around so that they're not printing in that area I'd say you can try to go on with that fep. Take some precautions tho: tape your screen edges and put the whole printer inside a platter or something similar.

bit of duct tape over the offending area :P

haha thanks :P

the most important thing yo need to do is get it out of the kitchen and vent it proparly you dont those particles in your kitchen bud! you need replace the fep as well as that dink in ot will mess the tension up

its not actually in the kitchen! when the kitchen was installed the preexisting worktop was in pretty good condition so my dad put it into his little workshop area out by the back door :)

Tom Barnes ah good stuff!

I have that FEP leakage problem...ruined the UV screen! Now, I have to replace the screen and fix the FEP leakage.

so, concensus is the replace the FeP
I have looked at online stores before and FeP isnt something I have bought before so the choice is a bit mind boggling.
and reccomendations

I just bought the Anycubic replacement off Amazon as it's my first time and I didn't want to take any chances. Seems to work so far.

I was saved by reading this group as I had already added kapton tape around my screen seals as a precaution and the mess was completely contained!

Miniac. Goobertown Hobbies

Miniac is great. Just always remember primer

Black magic craft is good also

Like any plastic item, there are a few things to remember. First, make certain your plastic/resin surface is clean from oils from your skin or residue (rinsing in soapy water works then allow to fully dry).

Second, apply some primer to your object before painting. Primer helps any paint stick nicely. If you intend to use nothing but spray paints then stick to the same brand for your primer and paint. Mixing different manufacturer's paints can produce unwanted effects.

Third, invest in a good set of brushes, especially those that won't shed bristles while you paint. Avoid the cheap brushes you can find at craft stores. I'm certain a a search on Amazon will help.

Fourth, try and find some decent paints. Acrylic paints you can find at any craft store can work nicely. You don't need much paint to cover but expect to paint a few coats to completely cover the primer. Also, wait for a coat to dry before applying the next (which doesn't take long with acrylics).

Don't forget squidmar miniatures. He's right up there with miniac

As far as paints are concerned, I would avoid mixing and matching different kinds of paints. I have a bunch of Testers enamels but they don't interact nicely with acrylics. Choose a certain kind of paint and stick with it.

Painting 101

Prime the mini

Paint things the colors you want

Apply a Wash/shade. Citadel Nuln Oil is usually the go-to for beginners

Drybrush over the mini using your colors again.

Clear coat. Most people like a matte

You will want acrylic paints btw

While they're specific to Warhammer minis the techniques discussed can be applied to any mini https://www.youtube.com/user/GamesWorkshopWNT Also Squidmar's tutorials are fantastic. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDvZTWvHZPTxJ4K1yTD2a1g

Thanks everyone .. think I can do this yall are the best ?

The best starter kit is the Reaper Miniatures "Core Skills" Learn to Paint kit. It comes with all the basic paints you'll need, brushes, and a really good instruction book that'll take you through every step.

https://www.reapermini.com/paints/learn-to-paint-kits

Goobertown hobbies. He's kind of goofy but he's got a great tutorial.

Watch Sorastro’s painting videos


https://www.youtube.com/user/Sorastro

Spend your every waking hour on YouTube... The Angel Giraldez books are quite good although great to miniatures.

Collect tools and brushes like it's a seperate hobby!

Sandpaper in a wide variety of grits is a good b investment. Wet sand if possible.

Very important: don't get discouraged. Your paintwork will look like shit until it doesn't. The example paintwork and tutorials on YouTube are generally done by people with years and years of experience. You can get there, with practice. But if you jus t want 'tabletop ready', aka 3 colors and a wash, that is OK too. Find your way of enjoying the hobby.

Lastly, you don't need every tool they show in tutorials. Just find yourself a good no. 1 and 2 brush, don't be afraid to invest in those. For paints, Citadel (warhammer) is expensive, but good. They have an app that shows you how to use all their paints. Vallejo is great, especially the color selection is massive. AK also has some great stuff.

Marcel Biermans thanks .. I just wanna mess around I no it takes practice .. heen cutting gemstones for 10 plus years and I'm still not a pro yet lol so same with painting

I highly recommend these two guides. https://youtu.be/v-BlVYFxfRA
https://youtu.be/JzuEL3bhcn0

Nice ?

Real nice!

Thingiverse?

Na i drew this up

Kane Wills very nice!